500 whp dream

[jlog1506]

Whats up guys, I just bought my first dsm, a 92 Talon Tsi shell. My goal for the car is around 500whp. Im very new to all of this and am reading and learning as much as possible but am still very confused. Im putting together a list of parts that I need to buy. Im trying to do this on a budget so most parts I will buy used. I want to do it on 93oct. The car will not be a daily driver, just some weekend cruising, maybe take it to the strip. This is what I came up with so far. Any tip will be appreciated. Thanks



1992 Eagle Talon Build
Goal-500whp

Motor:

Block:
6 Bolt Block-
Wiseco Forged Piston Set .20over/ 8.5 to 1 CR
Eagle H Beam Rods

Head:
ARP Headstuds




Fuel System:

255hp walbro
FIC 1650cc injectors


ECU:

DsmLink


Turbo/Intake/Exhaust:

Holset Hx35
VRSF Fmic kit Flanged for Tial Bov
Tial Alpha Q Bov
3" Exhaust

Drive Train:

 

[rvaughn]

I have no issues idling my 2150s on pump gas... They idle better than my pte 1000s after getting the inj battery adjust all worked out.



Wrong. Stay away from OXYGINATED race gas. Anything with MTBE. So you can run C16 like me, but not Q16.

WTF the miss information in here...

I never attacked you, nor did I ever point out that you can't run race fuel, I simply pointed out that id avoid it for fear of messing up $700+ injectors. Excuse me for missing you and your c16, glad you caught that. Not to mention me actually pointing out FICs VERY informative website. God for bid I post up information that makes sense... you need to step off your soap box dude, its getting old. I didn't come in here to have a package measuring contest with you and honestly the op didn't come to see that.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I never attacked you, nor did I ever point out that you can't run race fuel, I simply pointed out that id avoid it for fear of messing up $700+ injectors. Excuse me for missing you and your c16, glad you caught that. Not to mention me actually pointing out FICs VERY informative website. God for bid I post up information that makes sense... you need to step off your soap box dude, its getting old. I didn't come in here to have a package measuring contest with you and honestly the op didn't come to see that.

Yah dude, i own the injectors.....and i wasnt attacking you either, i was pointing out that you were wrong. (And you are wrong)

If you even read your own link..

"DO NOT USE WITH VP Import, Q16 or OTHER MTBE OXYGENATED FUELS"

I don't see a "don't use race gas" ...

 

[Tyeler18]

Wouldn't you agree that if your wireharness started to catch fire your IDC is meaningless no matter what? . If your on the verge on distruction that a alternator spike is gonna be make it or break it differance, than again, IDC is pointless. This makes me smile

You've obviously never seen a single wire burn up from excessive resistance. It's not at all uncommon. Especially on cars that are 20+ years old. And yes, in typical dsm fashion, WOT, excessive engine bay heat, voltage regulator in the alternator just took a shit mid pull, now you only have 12v at the pump instead of the 13+ it normally has. Say good bye to your IDC. With a lower IDC you pump may still have had enough flow to maintain AFR without leaning out. But what do shops know? I mean it's not like they don't do this everyday, obviously it never happens.

 

[rvaughn]

Yah dude, i own the injectors.....

If you even read your own link..

"DO NOT USE WITH VP Import, Q16 or OTHER MTBE OXYGENATED FUELS"

^ reread what I just posted, I already said I missed c16 I'm glad you caught that, now the OP has more options... again why are you attacking me and my perfectly useful link?

OP you should read that link, its been referenced twice, they have more good info in their tech section too.

 

[BogusSVO]

Can't 6 bolt internals hold over 500hp? I would think a stock rebuild with upgraded bearings new oil pump and valve train would be a good start for your goal. Without spending 900 for forged internals, I would put that into the head work and valve train parts. And a 255 rewired pump would work but I hear 400lph are better especially if you switch to e85. And you have to get the block to a machine shop before you determine piston size if it needs bored. Alot of people make that mistake. Make sure you find a machine shop that knows what they are doing. Bad tolerances will make a motor not last like it should.

I wouldn't want to have a stock 6 bolt at 500whp. Can it handle it? Yes. Will it last as long very long? No. At the power range it starts to become a ticking time bomb.

And if you can't get e85 think about some sort of meth injection setup.

I thought it was pretty risking to run a stock motor at that level. And can't I just pick what size pistons and then bore it to spec?

Yes a 6 bolt will take for 500+ hp, most of that will be in the tune. But not knowing every detail in your short block, it will be a risk at that level.

Personally, I will suggest that any stock rod engine, 4g63 or otherwise not go over 400-450 without a rod upgrade. But my thoughts are also if you want 500hp build to take 700hp or more.

Next thing is whatever machine shop you use, make sure they have at least a basic understanding of the 4g engine. Better yet, use a shop that is truly familiar with the 4g, and knows the tips and tricks of it.

Now I can understand you have a few bucks to throw around and you want to get your parts pile stared.

Pistons should not be on the top of the list.

Let the machine shop clean, check, and rough bore the block first
Then get your pistons.
Now take the pistons to the machine shop, Now they can hone the block and set the PTW.

The reason is simple for this, Say you order .50mm/.020 over pistons. Now you take the block and pistons to the machine shop.

Now you find out your block is already .50mm/.020 over but needs to go 1mm/.040 over.

Now you have to ship the pistons back, (if you can) or get another block.

I am going to stay on the short block and the machine work I would suggest.

Clean block
Deck block
Flip the front BS bearings
Bore/hone as needed ( torque plate preferred)
Check main bores (More so if ARP main studs are selected)
*Align hone mains as needed
New Freeze plugs
Block oil mod

Crank work
Remove the oil galley balls
clean crank
Polish/grind as needed

Weight match pistons within .2g
Weight match rods within .2g
Spin balance the full rotating assembly
(H-Balancer,Tbelt gear, BS gear or spacer, crank, rods, pistons, flywheel and pressure plate)

Make sure you use a OE stubby shaft or cut down rear shaft.

Front case cleaned and inspected. Move to straight cut oil pump gears (preferred)

Good bearings, King, ACL, Clevite

This will give you a solid short block that you can pound on

 

[jlog1506]

Hey guys.... Uhh I'm right here.
Lol

Yes a 6 bolt will take for 500+ hp, most of that will be in the tune. But not knowing every detail in your short block, it will be a risk at that level.

Personally, I will suggest that any stock rod engine, 4g63 or otherwise not go over 400-450 without a rod upgrade. But my thoughts are also if you want 500hp build to take 700hp or more.

Next thing is whatever machine shop you use, make sure they have at least a basic understanding of the 4g engine. Better yet, use a shop that is truly familiar with the 4g, and knows the tips and tricks of it.

Now I can understand you have a few bucks to throw around and you want to get your parts pile stared.

Pistons should not be on the top of the list.

Let the machine shop clean, check, and rough bore the block first
Then get your pistons.
Now take the pistons to the machine shop, Now they can hone the block and set the PTW.

The reason is simple for this, Say you order .50mm/.020 over pistons. Now you take the block and pistons to the machine shop.

Now you find out your block is already .50mm/.020 over but needs to go 1mm/.040 over.

Now you have to ship the pistons back, (if you can) or get another block.

I am going to stay on the short block and the machine work I would suggest.

Clean block
Deck block
Flip the front BS bearings
Bore/hone as needed ( torque plate preferred)
Check main bores (More so if ARP main studs are selected)
*Align hone mains as needed
New Freeze plugs
Block oil mod

Crank work
Remove the oil galley balls
clean crank
Polish/grind as needed

Weight match pistons within .2g
Weight match rods within .2g
Spin balance the full rotating assembly
(H-Balancer,Tbelt gear, BS gear or spacer, crank, rods, pistons, flywheel and pressure plate)

Make sure you use a OE stubby shaft or cut down rear shaft.

Front case cleaned and inspected. Move to straight cut oil pump gears (preferred)

Good bearings, King, ACL, Clevite

This will give you a solid short block that you can pound on

Thanks you so much dude.

Hey guys.... Uhh I'm right here.
Lol



Thanks you so much dude.

Now just to figure out what all of this means , not going to lie I'm a 19 yo kids who know little of motors. But I'm ready

 

[boost97gst]

uhhhhhh curse, if you were referring to me, i did actually write that before i copy and pasted. As you can see :because i was WRONG. My explanation was definitely off the top of my head, clearly.
Your definition was far more accurate than mine. Just to set it straight bro.

 

[BogusSVO]

Most of what I said to do can be found in this link list.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/450429-bogussvo-how-links-other-info.html

Just start reading

 

[Black95TSIawd]

This thread is funny. Outside of Bogus post, you guys get your dick so hard over tech posts.

 

[jlog1506]

Most of what I said to do can be found in this link list.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/450429-bogussvo-how-links-other-info.html

Just start reading

Awesome, thanks

Ok, so after reading up and thinking about it, all of thought was.... Money, a lot of it. So I decided to change up my goals. New goal is around 390-440whp with meth is necessary. But I want a seriously hard hitting turbo. Something to scare me , and passengers. Any suggestions?