50 trim not that fast. please bring some ideas.

[sp00ln]

1) Get a new, decent boost controller

2) DONT GET CAMS

3) TUNE YOUR CAR

4) NOW GET CAMS

Dont expect the cams to cure your problem. Make the most out of what you have before adding another factor to it. Start with .94v on the o2 and go from there.

This is just my 2 cents. I'm not disagreeing with anyone who is saying stock cams are holding you back, I'm just saying it wont cure your 'slow' problem.

 

[sweet97]

Agreed! There is a lot of power left in the tune! Get thT POWER UNLEADED IN THt tune firt!! <MMark

 

[daren_p]

Wiseman andymoraitis ran his '98 AWD with a big 16G at 26psi on stock internals, ran a 12.57 @ 109mph. At least shoot for 22-23psi, after all isn't the 50 trim the pump gas king? Lean the mix and that will do wonders and then try as much timing as you can get away with. i am assuming you have 93 octane available. Mark

Ya but wouldn't that kind of boost be track only on race fuel? (or some kind of injection) At the track is one thing but a daily driver is something else, more so on the 7bolt. Like I said maybe I'm just too cautious Add some arp head studs just to be on the safe side & up the boost a few more psi. Biggest thing, like has been said many times, get that thing tuned

The FP2x's should perform pretty nicely with your setup, just remember you need upgraded springs for the increased ramp rate. These should be a nice improvement over the origional FP2's, as they offer slightly more lift for even more top end power but the increased ramp will help out in the low/mid dept which the origional 2's lose abit in.

 

[97gstnick]

Agreed! There is a lot of power left in the tune! Get thT POWER UNLEADED IN THt tune firt!! <MMark

i will mark! i wont let you down!

 

[97gstnick]

Ya but wouldn't that kind of boost be track only on race fuel? (or some kind of injection) At the track is one thing but a daily driver is something else, more so on the 7bolt. Like I said maybe I'm just too cautious Add some arp head studs just to be on the safe side & up the boost a few more psi. Biggest thing, like has been said many times, get that thing tuned

The FP2x's should perform pretty nicely with your setup, just remember you need upgraded springs for the increased ramp rate. These should be a nice improvement over the origional FP2's, as they offer slightly more lift for even more top end power but the increased ramp will help out in the low/mid dept which the origional 2's lose abit in.

yea, i want some decent cams for a reasonable cost. i guess with any cam that im going to get im going to need upgraded valvetrain. and i say that because i want nothing less than a mean ass cam.

 

[daren_p]

Well you don't need to run upgraded valve train if you stick with 272's or FP2's but if you want larger/more agressive, then yes you will. There are a few guy running the 2x's here, they seem to be really happy with them.

Im in the same boat with wanting to max out my current evoIII turbo before I upgrade. I was going to go with the FP1/FP2 combo to keep my car emissions friendly, which they are pretty anal about around here (& I don't want anymore hassle then I already get) but when asked FP about the 1x's, think they changed my mind. You do need to run upgraded springs with these as well but I figure with springs & retainers its only about $50 more then HKS cams & you'll have a much better setup in the end. The 1x's are the same idea, same lift as the FP2's but increased ramp rate to get the low/mid of the 1's. They also have less overlap then even the smaller FP1/FP2 combo to keep emissions happy.

With a good tune, abit more boost & cams you should easily be seeing 40 lb/min. Your next thread will probably be "Cars not that fast.... because I can't get traction "

 

[97gstnick]

Well you don't need to run upgraded valve train if you stick with 272's or FP2's but if you want larger/more agressive, then yes you will. There are a few guy running the 2x's here, they seem to be really happy with them.

Im in the same boat with wanting to max out my current evoIII turbo before I upgrade. I was going to go with the FP1/FP2 combo to keep my car emissions friendly, which they are pretty anal about around here (& I don't want anymore hassle then I already get) but when asked FP about the 1x's, think they changed my mind. You do need to run upgraded springs with these as well but I figure with springs & retainers its only about $50 more then HKS cams & you'll have a much better setup in the end. The 1x's are the same idea, same lift as the FP2's but increased ramp rate to get the low/mid of the 1's. They also have less overlap then even the smaller FP1/FP2 combo to keep emissions happy.

With a good tune, abit more boost & cams you should easily be seeing 40 lb/min. Your next thread will probably be "Cars not that fast.... because I can't get traction "

hahah, hopefully that will be my next thread.. my traction is not all that bad but most likely will be when i get more power. i run 8.5 inch rims with 245 wide tires. they are fuzion zri.

 

[arash15]

you arent making power becasue you have exhaust leaks. there has been 7 pages to this thread just to help you fix your car. SO FIX IT. fix the exhaust leaks and you will notice the difference in power and spoolup. then IF you finaaly make the decision to get cams. then GET THEM! drop your cams in (272's or FP2 if you keep the stock valvetrain) then TUNE! plain and simple. there is no what if's. you will hate the power you will be making because as stated before in this thread you are going to come across some torque steer problems with the power you will be making. so after you fix your car, and maybe get that SMIM that you couldnt decide on. Then you can RE-TUNE. Then your going to have to RE-LEARN to drive your car. HAVE FUN.

 

[97gstnick]

you arent making power becasue you have exhaust leaks. there has been 7 pages to this thread just to help you fix your car. SO FIX IT. fix the exhaust leaks and you will notice the difference in power and spoolup. then IF you finaaly make the decision to get cams. then GET THEM! drop your cams in (272's or FP2 if you keep the stock valvetrain) then TUNE! plain and simple. there is no what if's. you will hate the power you will be making because as stated before in this thread you are going to come across some torque steer problems with the power you will be making. so after you fix your car, and maybe get that SMIM that you couldnt decide on. Then you can RE-TUNE. Then your going to have to RE-LEARN to drive your car. HAVE FUN.

thanks but no thanks. everything you said is pretty much common sense. besides, i already stated a few times that i need to fix things and i will. i am just asking what is a better mod to get first (cams or smim). im not stating it will fix my problem. thanks for reading pretty much only 2 posts in this thread and coming to a conclusion.

 

[arash15]

thanks but no thanks. everything you said is pretty much common sense. besides, i already stated a few times that i need to fix things and i will. i am just asking what is a better mod to get first (cams or smim). im not stating it will fix my problem. thanks for reading pretty much only 2 posts in this thread and coming to a conclusion.

i was never talking about cams or smim fixing your problem. i was talking about what order you should do your next mods. just to let you know i read the whole thread

 

[97gstnick]

i was never talking about cams or smim fixing your problem. i was talking about what order you should do your next mods. just to let you know i read the whole thread

the way you worded it seemed a little rude.

 

[GSntncT]

So, made any good progress?

 

[97gstnick]

So, made any good progress?

nah man, not as of yet. i am feeling way better today so if my friend is home im going over there and try to fix my exhaust leaks.

does anyone recommend any kind of sealant for gaskets on the exhaust parts? i made my own stainless but they aren't sealing good. maybe i just didnt torque good enough? hmm.

 

[Turbocharged]

nah man, not as of yet. i am feeling way better today so if my friend is home im going over there and try to fix my exhaust leaks.

does anyone recommend any kind of sealant for gaskets on the exhaust parts? i made my own stainless but they aren't sealing good. maybe i just didnt torque good enough? hmm.

Use a metal composite gasket on the downpipe/O2 housing. Use stainless gaskets on the head/exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold/turbo, and turbo/O2 housing.

You may want to buy some gaskets instead of making your own... there isnt much room for error especially if you are using sheetmetal or the like.

 

[arash15]

the way you worded it seemed a little rude.

nope not rude, but straight to the point. im kindda fadded too but . no harm intended

 

[arash15]

Use a metal composite gasket on the downpipe/O2 housing. Use stainless gaskets on the head/exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold/turbo, and turbo/O2 housing.

You may want to buy some gaskets instead of making your own... there isnt much room for error especially if you are using sheetmetal or the like.

fork out the extra cash and do it right. you already know how your car runs with these leaks. dont half ass a car like this. buy legit gaskets throw some anti-seieze on the bolts and you will be set. you'll never break a bolt with anti seize

 

[97gstnick]

fork out the extra cash and do it right. you already know how your car runs with these leaks. dont half ass a car like this. buy legit gaskets throw some anti-seieze on the bolts and you will be set. you'll never break a bolt with anti seize

yea, you know what sucks? i have broken many bolts in the bullseye turbine housing. i have put anti-seize on them too. they still keep seizing up, its pissing me off. im thinking about puttin studs in them and having my friend weld a bead on the backside of them and just use nuts.

to tell you the truth, my gaskets are actually very nice. they are a good thickness and high quality metal. i think my torque job sucked.

 

[DSM90AWD]

yea, you know what sucks? i have broken many bolts in the bullseye turbine housing. i have put anti-seize on them too. they still keep seizing up, its pissing me off. im thinking about puttin studs in them and having my friend weld a bead on the backside of them and just use nuts

Why the need to remove the housing so much
Copper-Based High Temp anti-sieze is the way to go though

 

[arash15]

yea, you know what sucks? i have broken many bolts in the bullseye turbine housing. i have put anti-seize on them too. they still keep seizing up, its pissing me off. im thinking about puttin studs in them and having my friend weld a bead on the backside of them and just use nuts.

to tell you the truth, my gaskets are actually very nice. they are a good thickness and high quality metal. i think my torque job sucked.

i wouldnt recommend that route. i would retorque, because your just going to have a big hassle with the stud setup. Make sure you use "high temp, nickel based anti-sieze". dont quote me on that name but you can find it at RRE site. It's 15 bucks and its well worth it. Ive never broken a bolt. Are you using the SS 7cm gasket? try to aviod reusing gaskets.

 

[97gstnick]

Why the need to remove the housing so much
Copper-Based High Temp anti-sieze is the way to go though

copper based huh? ok.

 

[97gstnick]

i wouldnt recommend that route. i would retorque, because your just going to have a big hassle with the stud setup. Make sure you use "high temp, nickel based anti-sieze". dont quote me on that name but you can find it at RRE site. It's 15 bucks and its well worth it. Ive never broken a bolt. Are you using the SS 7cm gasket? try to aviod reusing gaskets.

yes i made my own 7cm gasket. i know what your thinking... but trust me, its a very nice gasket.

 

[arash15]

yes i made my own 7cm gasket. i know what your thinking... but trust me, its a very nice gasket.

whatever floats your boat. what did you make it out of?

 

[97gstnick]

whatever floats your boat. what did you make it out of?

stainless

 

[97gstnick]

yep, so i bought marks cams. they are crower stage 4s. man i cant wait to put these babies in. i have to wait until i get some springs and retainers though.

i have been looking but cant find the answer to my question. what size do i need to drill and tap my intake cam for the CAS?

 

[C_Keagy]

heres from my experience i use to have a big 16 and then swaped to a 50 trim they both ran the same 16g at 18psi and the 50 trim at 20 except for the 50 trim pulled the whole way through redline the 50 trim dosnt like low boost which is 20 for it try getting it tuned at 25 + and then youll see a difference