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4G64 crank?

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Hideki

15+ Year Contributor
815
4
Apr 23, 2006
West Hills, California
Seeing as my 4G63 is now torn apart getting rebuilt, I got this crazy idea that now would probably be a good time to make mine a 2.3 using a 4G64 crank. I was searching and got some info. My only real question is, aside from needing the crank from a 4G64 what other parts do I need to make it work? I really don't want this to turn into a rant and rave about why a stroker is a good idea or not either ;)
 
Actually most stroker kits use the same rods, but use custom pistons that move the wrist pin higher up.
 
They use stock length rods and a set of off the shelf stroker pistons. PM me for more info.

Oliver
 
Are you stroking a 6 or 7 bolt? If 6 bolt I would recommend you size your rods properly to get a kiggly girdle around those mains. Not all rods will clear it.

*edit* I also hope you have some money invested into your trans (specifically the center diff). The increased torque will cause the fatigue life to change.
 
Are you stroking a 6 or 7 bolt? If 6 bolt I would recommend you size your rods properly to get a kiggly girdle around those mains. Not all rods will clear it.

*edit* I also hope you have some money invested into your trans (specifically the center diff). The increased torque will cause the fatigue life to change.

98 7-bolt. I'd love to get the kiggly girdle, but I can't really afford it. The AT has a fresh rebuild with all the fixins, but the diff is stock. We'll see how long it lasts. I figure, with the converter pre-loading the drivetrain, the chance for breakage from the added lowend/midrange would be minimal.
 
98 7-bolt. I'd love to get the kiggly girdle, but I can't really afford it. The AT has a fresh rebuild with all the fixins, but the diff is stock. We'll see how long it lasts. I figure, with the converter pre-loading the drivetrain, the chance for breakage from the added lowend/midrange would be minimal.

You don't need a kiggly girdle for a 2g 7-bolt as they have a main girdle from the factory.
 
You don't need a kiggly girdle for a 2g 7-bolt as they have a main girdle from the factory.

I know, I thought you may have been referring to some super billet upgraded girdle or something, LOL! (billet is the new buzz word, right :D)

I don't mean to continue hi-jacking this thread, but I want to confirm my research and I think it is highly related to the original topic.

I have a 97 bare block that I am using for this build. It uses the 360 thrust bearing as opposed the split wash of my current 98 block. Are the pros/cons to either? I did several searches and only found anecdotal evidence, nothing concrete.

Lastly, I can use a crank from any of the following correct?

CHRYSLER SEBRING (2001 - 2004)
DODGE STRATUS (2001 - 2003)
EAGLE SUMMIT (1993 - 1996)
EAGLE SUMMIT DL (1993 - 1996)
EAGLE SUMMIT LX (1993 - 1996)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE (2000 - 2003)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER (1999 - 2003)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GS (1996 - 1998)
MITSUBISHI EXPO (1993 - 1995)
MITSUBISHI EXPO LRV (1993 - 1994)
MITSUBISHI EXPO SP 1993
MITSUBISHI GALANT (1999 - 2004)
MITSUBISHI GALANT DE (1997 - 1998)
MITSUBISHI GALANT ES (1994 - 1998)
MITSUBISHI GALANT GS 1994
MITSUBISHI GALANT LS (1994 - 1998)
MITSUBISHI GALANT S (1994 - 1996)
 
I found a 4g64 crank out of a 3g (2001) eclipse. I can use that, right? I found a post or two in the hundreds of 4g64 threads indicating that I could, but I want to make sure. Also, I have brand new 4g63 rod bearings... can I use them?

EDIT* I'm pulling the trigger on the 3g crank... if I can't use it, hopefully I can sell it :D
 
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