The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

4g63 cold air intake done right !!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

In order to actually hydrolock a motor, the whole filter would have to be submerged enough to actually pull water all the way through the CIA, through the intercooler, and into the motor. So unless you're driving through tsunami style flooding, i think it would be ok. Maybe just a little performance hinderance from a slightly wet filter element. But i think the chances of hydrolocking a motor from just hitting a puddle or from rain are incredibly slight.

That being said, I don't think it's a bad idea to create an "isolation" type of box with ducting to keep rain and water out, maybe with one way slats in the box to let water drain but not re-enter.
 
The other issue is if the air metering sensor would like having tiny drops of water coming in contact with it (as opposed to a huge stream of water). I know for a fact that the GM MAF sensor HATES having water on it, and retaliates by giving you wildly irregular airflow readings. The stock DSM MAS might fare better...
 
by using logic i was pretty much sure that it would be nearly impossible to hydrolock your motor.. however, the stock maf never even crossed my mind.. if you did go through a puddle, what would the effect be on the turbine wheel.. someone on this thread stated ONE drop would destroy your turbine. is this true??
 
Well, if the turbine was hot enough, I'd buy that. One drop of cold water on a hot glass/ceramic plate, and it'll shatter into a thousand pieces. Metal's a bit more resistant, but turbos get extremely hot.. and if the metal is old and brittle after being heat cycled so many times...

Also, with how much vacuum our cars produce, it'd take less than a half-second to fill the entire intake tract, and cylinders with water if the intake was totally submerged. You don't need that much to kill the engine.. just a few drops. Less than a thimbleful. Remember, water doesn't compress, so that volume in the cylinder is lost, artificially raising your compression to a ridiculously high number... and pop.

20 in/Hg is enough to shoot a column of water 40 feet into the air. Just a bit of trivia.
 
hey jaraxle i just took another look at your engine bay.. are your pipes covered in cool tape??
 
You bet. All cold pipes after turbo are thermal taped to keep heat out. All hot pipes to CAT are thermal wrapped to keep heat IN. All go, no show.

As far as water hitting the compressor wheel.
Yes. Water hitting the compressor wheel could shatter or chip it.
I've wondered about this with my water injection. When the BOV does its thing, water + air is going back into my compressor. Hopefully it is always vaporized or fine enough not to matter. As for water coming in the air filter. Your going to REALLY have to dunk that sucker and drench it to get water coming up the pipes to the maf. Then you may get water droplets on your MAF, which will make the car run like crap, until it dries off.
The MAF works by temperature don't forget. Water changes the measured temperature, and the computer thinks a TON of air is coming in.

-Jaraxle
 
Jaraxle said:
You bet. All cold pipes after turbo are thermal taped to keep heat out. All hot pipes to CAT are thermal wrapped to keep heat IN. All go, no show.

-Jaraxle


hey so how do you like the cool tape + exhaust wrap? is it worth the money?
 
I'd say yes. I can't give you a measured result of what it did for me. As the car was being built, I kinda did everything at once. In other words - I wrapped the pipes BEFORE I installed them for the first time.
From a performance stand-point, it is a cheap thing to do, and it is the right thing to do.
From a HP stand point.... logically it has to help. I ordered both rolls from summit racing. I'd say it was around 40 bucks, which is around the same price as this cold air intake mod. Between the two, I KNOW it makes a difference. Not much investment,

-Jaraxle
 
staticbrainwash said:
But consider how much piping water would have to travel through to get to a gm-mas in blowthru configuration, it still just don't seem like that big of a worry.

Speaking from experience water can get all the way up to the GM mas in a blowthrough set up.
 
How is that possible? Yes compressed flowing air will carry water farther, BUT how did you get enough water on the filter to soak the filter and then have it bleed through into the intake system?
 
Looks familiar - instead it's just one trip to Home Depot :thumb:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I also sucked water in and my filter is at the stock location. It moslty stayed in the intercooler but when i floored it, it would cut out. I took the fmic and piping out the next day and i had ALOT of water in it. Thank god my mas was in blow thru, otherwise, i would have probably gotten stuck.

Conclusion, be very careful when doing this type of mod.
 
gonna have my custom sheet metal air box done today if it ever stops pouring down rain..
 
Where are you putting this box? A few people have recomended to me to build a box around it down in the fender well but i feel that doing so would take away some of the gains. Yes it would still be cooler air than being in the engine bay but you'd lose all the fresh cool air being rammed right into it.
 
well i am going to build a box underneath and to one side so that no splash can hit it, and one on side i have the bumper covering it, behind it i have the fender lining.. if i submerge it in a big puddle i am still gonna be SOL..
 
I took a different approach when building my CAI. First off I built a heat shield around my cone filter. Next I have a short route FMIC setup so the hole when the stock IC pipeing goes is empty. I bought a section of the spectre 3" flex intake duct & installed the ducting from this hole & then directed it to the opening where the SMIC used to get is supply air from. This way I still get a nice and cool air supply but don't have to worry about water getting sucked into the intake. The heat shield can be seen in my gallery but didn't take any pics of the flex section.
 
ok guys. it stopped raining, and the soccer game is over so now i am going to go outside and get this project started.. i bought some 30 gauge metal piping, and its been flattening out all morning.. i will check back in a few.
 
well it was a lot more of a PITA than i had originally imagined.. it was really cheap chimney pipe, and it bent so easy that it was impossible to get a straight line cut with my tin snips.. when i get pics up you will see the box covers the filter in every direction execpt straight ahead.. and when it rains i am just going to put the little cover thing on the bumper.. kinda hard to explain i will have pics up tomorrow..
 
Here is my true cold air intake. I have been a few light showers and had no problem. I live in AZ so rainy days are few and far between, but I am honestly not worried unless there is a huge down pour.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top