420a - Re-ringing pistons procedure

[DSMOCTANE]

-Hello my fellow Dsm tuners, I have just ordered a standard sized ring, bearing, and gasket set for my 99' Eclipse GS. I would like to know if there is anyone who has created an illustrated tutorial on the removal of the crank, rods, pistons etc. Ultimately, I want to research what I am to expect on removal of the bottom end of a 420a motor, and also would like to know if removal of the transmission is necessary for removal of the crank! Any advice/tips would be wonderful!
Thank you so much guys
-Brett Grala

 

[96DSM2GMod]

Yes, the transmission must be removed to remove the crank along with the clutch and flywheel if you have a stick if its an auto then you have to remove the torque converter and flex plate. It sound like you are doing a bottom end rebuild on your 420a and i have done a bottom end rebuild on a 95 3000gt and we didn't remove the engine it would be easier to remove to motor from the car to replace bearings, crank, seals and all that. I would suggest going to you local parts store and getting a book on the car because there is pictures and i know there is a certain pattern to remove and install the bolts and the book including torque specs on all the whole engine. I have a 420a motor on a stand in my garage if you picks of the bottom end to see. P.S. while your at it you might want to replace timing belt and water pump and make sure everything else checks out fine.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Some part of this is bound to help out.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket, oil pan, pistons and connecting rods.
1. Using crankshaft oil seal tool No. MB995022, or equivalent, remove the front crankshaft oil seal.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the seal surface of cover.

2. Pry out rear seal with screwdriver.

NOTE: Be careful not to nick or damage crankshaft flange seal surface or retainer bore.

3. Remove main bearing cap bedplate.
4. Remove bearing lower.
5. Remove crankshaft.
6. Remove bearing upper.
7. Remove knock sensor.
8. Remove oil pressure switch.
9. Remove oil level gauge (dipstick).

INSTALLATION
1. Install oil level gauge (dipstick).
2. Install oil pressure switch.
3. Install knock sensor and tighten to 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.).

NOTE: Over or under tightening effects knock sensor performance, possibly causing improper spark control.

View & Print Options



4. Select proper thickness main bearing shells.

View & Print Options



NOTE: Upper and lower No. 3 bearing halves are flanged to carry the crankshaft thrust loads and are not interchangeable with any other bearing halves in the engine. Bearing shells are available in standard and the following undersized: 0.016 mm, 0.032 mm, 0.250 mm.
Never install an undersize bearing that will reduce clearance below specifications.

View & Print Options



5. Install the main bearing shells with the lubrication groove in the cylinder block.

NOTE: All upper bearing shells in the crankcase have oil grooves. All lower bearing shells installed in the (bedplate) main bearing caps are plain. Crankshaft end play is controlled by a flanged bearing on the number three main bearing journal.

6. Make certain oil holes in block line up with oil hole in bearings and bearing tabs seat in the block tab slots.
7. Oil the bearings and journals and install crankshaft.

CAUTION: Do not get oil on bedplate mating surface. It may effect the sealer ability to seal the bedplate to cylinder block.

View & Print Options



8. Apply 1.5 - 2.0 mm (0.059 - 0.078 inch) bead of Loctite 19614 to cylinder block as shown.
9. Install main bearing cap bedplate together with lower bearing shells.

CAUTION: Use only Loctite 19614, or equivalent, anaerobic sealer on the bedplate to cylinder block, or damage may occur to the engine.

10. Before installing the bolts, the threads should be oiled with engine oil.

11. Install main bearing bedplate to engine block bolts (1 thru 10) finger tight, then torque main bearing bolts to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
12. Install main bearing bedplate to engine block bolts (A thru K) finger tight, then torque each bolt to 28 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.

13. Install crankcase baffle into the opening in the block. Attach baffle to main bearing cap fasteners.

14. Place new front seal into opening with seal spring towards the inside of engine. Install seal by using seal installer tool No. MB995022, or equivalent, until flush with oil pump cover.

CAUTION: If burr or scratch is present on the crankshaft edge (chamfer), cleanup with 400 grit sand paper to prevent seal damage during installation of new seal.

NOTE: When installing seal, no lube on seal is needed.

15. Place pilot tool No. MB995059 (with magnetic base), or equivalent, on crankshaft.

16. Position seal over pilot tool. Make sure you can read the words "THIS SIDE OUT" on seal. Pilot tool should remain on crankshaft during installation of seal.

17. Drive the seal into the block using tool No. MB995060 and handle C-4171, or equivalents, until the tool bottoms out against the block.

NOTE: If the seal is driven into the block past flush, this may cause an oil leak.

when removing piston and rod assembly. Keep all components, such as connecting rod caps and bearings, in proper order for installation. Position each piston ring gap as far apart as possible and ensure each piston and rod are installed in the same cylinder bore as removed. Ensure connecting rod caps and bearings are placed on proper connecting rods, then tighten bolts to specification.
Standard Journal Diameter, inch:
Main Bearing ............................................ 2.0469-2.0475
Crank Pin ............................................... 1.8894-1.8900
Out of Round (All), inch .......................................... 0.0001
Taper (All), inch ................................................. 0.0001

Bearing Clearance, inch:
Main Bearing ............................................... 0.0008-0.0024
Connecting Rod Bearings .................................... 0.0010-0.0023

Connecting Rod Side Clearance, inch ............................. 0.0051-0.0150
COMPONENT ...................................................... Torque/Ft. Lbs.
A/C Compressor Bracket ................................................... 17-20
Air Cleaner ............................................................... 6-7
Auto Tensioner ............................................................. 23
Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolt ................................................ [12]
Camshaft Sprocket .......................................................... 75
Connecting Rod Bearing Caps .............................................. [04]
Crankshaft Bearing Caps .................................................. [14]
Crankshaft Pulley ......................................................... 105
Cylinder Head Bolt ....................................................... [03]
EGR Valve .................................................................. 16
Electric Fuel Pump (Bolt) ................................................. 1.8
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor ........................................... 5
Exhaust Manifold To Engine ................................................. 17
Exhaust Pipe Clamp Bolt ................................................... 9.4
Exhaust Pipe To Hanger .................................................... 9.4
Exhaust Pipe To Manifold ................................................... 33
Flywheel ............................................................... 94-101
Fuel Gauge Unit (AWD) ...................................................... 36
Fuel Gauge Unit (FWD) ..................................................... 1.8
Intake Manifold To Engine .................................................. 17
Oil Pan (Non-Turbo) ....................................................... 8.9
Oil Pan Drain Plug ......................................................... 25
Oil Pump Cover ............................................................. 17
Oil Screen ................................................................. 21
Oxygen Sensor .............................................................. 22
Throttle Body ........................................................... 11-16
Timing Belt Front Cover, Bottom ............................................ 21
Timing Belt Front Cover, Top .............................................. 8.9
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley ............................................... 30
Water Pump ................................................................ 8.7


[03]-- Refer to Cylinder Head Assembly.
[04]-- 20 ft. lbs., then tighten an additional 90°.
[12]-- Main camshaft bearing caps, 21 ft. lbs.; small camshaft bearing caps, 8.9 ft. lbs.
[14]-- Inner crankshaft bearing caps, 55 ft. lbs.; outer crankshaft bearing caps, 20 ft. lbs.

 

[dsmcrzy]

^ he pretty much covered it but OP it is way easier to remove the engine to do this. Also do yourself a favor and have the cylinders at least honed so the rings will seat properly. I am not sure how far you want to go into this money wise though...

Good luck either way but yes tans has to be removed or engine pulled to do this.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

^ Yea I would advice removal of the engine to do this job. Not something you want to do in the vehicle. and honing is always a good thing to do.

 

[michael102691]

Remove the engine, remove the flex plate and the rear main housing, set the engine on a stand. way way easier this way. I use the crankshaft pulley bolts to bolt the engine to the stand.

 

[Shake_Zulla]

-Hello my fellow Dsm tuners, I have just ordered a standard sized ring, bearing, and gasket set for my 99' Eclipse GS. I would like to know if there is anyone who has created an illustrated tutorial on the removal of the crank, rods, pistons etc. Ultimately, I want to research what I am to expect on removal of the bottom end of a 420a motor, and also would like to know if removal of the transmission is necessary for removal of the crank! Any advice/tips would be wonderful!
Thank you so much guys
-Brett Grala

This might be a problem, the best thing to do is to take it into a machine shop to check the concentricity of the cylinders. Good news is you just bought the rings, bad news is if your cylinders are worn enough then you might have to get new pistons and rings that are oversized. I don't know why you are needing to replace the rings but if you are wanting to rebuild the block then I would use this link. A little warning though, it's gonna be more expensive and you will have quite a bit of down time unless you get a used motor and rebuild it and then swap it...

2GNT.com - A_Proper_Rebuild

 

[DSMOCTANE]

Thank you so much guys, I truly appreciate your advice. So heres the deal, my father and I ended up pulling the head to discover a burnt exhaust valve in cylinder #2 as well as a cooked head gasket. At this rate I may just stick to rebuilding the head, considering that cylinders 1,3, & 4 had all read 180 psi during the compression check before all this. It was just the damaged cylinder #2 that had read less than half of the others! Since shes just my n\t daily driver, I think I may just stick to rebuilding the head for now. 180 psi sounds not too bad you'd say for those other cylinders, right? There was practically no lip around the edges of each cylinder including #2 as well, and not any signs of black oily carbon built up on the plugs and rest of the head (hinting limited piston ring failure.) I have a great machinist who will inspect, test, clean and resurface the head for me, but what do you think as far as just replacing that cooked valve and leaving the rest of the valves remaining unchanged? Again, shes just a n/t daily cruiser with mild bolt-on modifications! And can my cams be micropolished also?!

 

[Shake_Zulla]

Fix the head then do another compression test. If you found a good machine shop that you trust then have them inspect everything on the head a clean it up. I usually have my lifters replaced just cause and any rockers that are beat up but thats up to you.