The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

420A 420a AC vacuum

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Turbizmo

15+ Year Contributor
430
0
Jul 3, 2005
Salinas, California
well this is my problem. Well I took off the AC out of my 97 eclipse because it was doing a weird noise kinda like a duck or something like that. every time I just to tap the gas a little bit. once I stepped on it a little it stooped. so then it got on my nerves so i took of everything and it stooped making that noise. well since the ac has a vacuum running from the back of the Intake Manifold to somewhere on the ac. well i took it off and plugged it up. So then when i turned on the car my boost gauge was reading at 9 vacuum and when i drove it stayed there almost all the time even when i let go of the gas unless i boosted. Back then when I had the ac my vacuum was at 15 when idle. Then when I was driving and let go of the gas a little it dropped down to 19-20. So my question is. Its that normal. The car seems to be running the same as before but some how my blow off valve got way quieter and my boost went down from 10 to 7 :mad: so any clues what it could be. I check for any leaks and found nothing all the vacuums are connected. The vacuum close to the TB is going to the BOV and the ones close to the timing belt in back of the intake manifold one of them is going to the FPR and the other one its just plugged up "The one from the AC " also the EGR vacuum is plugged up since i have the EGR block off.
 
Did you do an actual boost leak test? I would start there and probably end there. Most of the time the problem lies in a hidden leak. I had one from a leak throttle body that I would have never guessed had I not done the proper test. Good luck finding the leak!:thumb:
 
i have a blocked off egr as well, and a disconnected a/c. though i did not recall any vacuum lines related with the a/c. well may be a difference between 95 and 97. i would start at a boost leak test as stated above, maybe you accidentally made a leak in removal. always best to double check. also, the vacuum stated is in normal range, typical vacuum at idle i believe should range around 17 to 22 on a healthy engine. hope this helps
 
i have a blocked off egr as well, and a disconnected a/c. though i did not recall any vacuum lines related with the a/c. well may be a difference between 95 and 97. i would start at a boost leak test as stated above, maybe you accidentally made a leak in removal. always best to double check. also, the vacuum stated is in normal range, typical vacuum at idle i believe should range around 17 to 22 on a healthy engine. hope this helps

My vaccum is at 9 when idle and when running so yeah how would i do a boost leak test or vaccum?
 
My vaccum is at 9 when idle and when running so yeah how would i do a boost leak test or vaccum?

if you are running that low of vacuum, there are many things that need to be checked to find out whats wrong. i would double check the boost leak scenario. you do so by using soapy water and checking all the joints in the turbo system, while the car is running, spray the joints and if bubbles begin to form you've found it. thats your typical boost leak test.

as for the vacuum problem, that can be caused by some sort of vacuum leak. check all lines pertaining to the vacuum system. pcv valve also, then it can go as far as, IM gaskets, TB gasket, head gasket, and valve stem seals to name a few. it sucks that you're gonna have to diagnose all of this, but hey at least you'll get some experience on the subject. hope this helps ya out man

:dsm:
 
if you are running that low of vacuum, there are many things that need to be checked to find out whats wrong. i would double check the boost leak scenario. you do so by using soapy water and checking all the joints in the turbo system, while the car is running, spray the joints and if bubbles begin to form you've found it. thats your typical boost leak test.

as for the vacuum problem, that can be caused by some sort of vacuum leak. check all lines pertaining to the vacuum system. pcv valve also, then it can go as far as, IM gaskets, TB gasket, head gasket, and valve stem seals to name a few. it sucks that you're gonna have to diagnose all of this, but hey at least you'll get some experience on the subject. hope this helps ya out man

:dsm:
I found it it was one of the vacuums lines where a big huge ac box on the front passenger tire was at i plugged it up and everything is back to normal
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top