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2g's with GT35r

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shaunp

15+ Year Contributor
114
4
Mar 11, 2008
Snellville, Georgia
I been searching and I wanted to know what kind of power the 2g guys are making, no stroker motors just 2 liter 7 bolt engines. Pleae No Drag ONLY cars.

I'm in the process of building my 98 GSX and I plan on running the 35r (unless something better comes along). The car will have occasional track and street use it will NOT be a daily driver. The hardest problem I'm having is deciding what type of manifold and turbine housing to run. I know its far fetched but I was hoping to make 600AWHP.

I want to hear from guys with a 35r setup, and if I'm not overstepping my boundaries a mod list and dyno #'s would be appreciated.

I'm going to be different and build the 7 bolt, I will be using a 1g head. Please, No why don't you just build a 6 bolt crap.

Here is what I have so far:

1g Head
Ross Pistons 8:3.1
Eagle Rods
HKS 272's
Crower Springs and Titanium Retainers
Fidanza Cam Gears
Arp Head Studs
Arp Main Studs
ACL Tri metal Bearings
SI Valves Nitrided
Ferrea Valve Seal
Valve Guides
Revised Lifters

I've attached my build list just incase anyone was interested. The manifold and turbo is not on the list for obvious reasons.

Thanks for all comments and suggestions.
 

Attachments

  • Engine Build Parts.doc
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Good friend of mine made 599whp in his 2g. All around street car.
 
If I had my choice of turbine housings for a 35R I would look at the .68 open T4 with a V-band outlet. It will flow better than a .82 T3, gives you the benefit of the T4 outlet (meaning if you ever upgrade again you aren't stuck with upgrading the exhaust setup again), and has the convenience of being a V-band for easy removal.
 
I'm am also looking for gt35 Ive read alot of great things about the FP35 on EvolutionM forum that people make around 609whp with a good tune, Alot of people told me to go with it instead of garrett gt35 since forced performance built it around the dsm platform, just my .02
 
You say that you dont want people to tell you to build a 6 Bolt instead of the 7 bolt, so I wont tell you to build a 6 bolt, but if you insist in doing the 7 bolt, atleast look into the parts that you'll need to prevent Crankwalk.

Blowing an engine is shitty, Blowing a built engine is even shittier.

Not to mention, Your diving into a 10 second car when it appears you havent even run 12's yet. Maybe you should start with something a little smaller. 50 trims work well.
 
EVIL_EAGLE made it into the single digits with a 35r in '06. he was running nitrous as well though, but he was around 700awhp with the 150 shot of juice. i could be wrong on the setup, but i know he was running the 35r. you may want to contact him as for what he was officially using, course, he is trying for 8's this year LOL.
 
You say that you dont want people to tell you to build a 6 Bolt instead of the 7 bolt, so I wont tell you to build a 6 bolt, but if you insist in doing the 7 bolt, atleast look into the parts that you'll need to prevent Crankwalk.

Blowing an engine is shitty, Blowing a built engine is even shittier.

Not to mention, Your diving into a 10 second car when it appears you havent even run 12's yet. Maybe you should start with something a little smaller. 50 trims work well.

And what are these parts to PREVENT crankwalk? :|
 
Late style 7 bolt is only thing that MIGHT help the chances.
 
Late style 7 bolt is only thing that MIGHT help the chances.

So does not using heavy pressure plates. I have the revised crank bearing and I still didn't go with the 2600 for peace of mind.
 
Forgot there's another guy in Indy that I know who's making around 650awhp on Buschur's stingy dyno at 7000rpm with a gt35R as well. Forgot what turbo he was on or I'd have mentioned him earlier.
 
i have a nitrited evo crank on my 7 bolt. makes the metal more dense, so they say. holding up but its only been 1k since the build.
 
Since I dont have a 7 Bolt I never really looked into it any further but I do remember seeing some sort of brace, something like the Kiggly Brace, that helps prevent crankwalk.

You need to remember that crankwalk is caused by poor lubrication of the Main Bearing's Thrust Surface resulting in overheating and eventually eats away at the bearing and into the crank and block.

Now we all know this happens on stock cars, Imagine how much harder it is on the bearing when you have a clutch with much higher pedal pressures.

My point is do the research now to avoid having to do things twice (like spending twice the money).
 
You say that you dont want people to tell you to build a 6 Bolt instead of the 7 bolt, so I wont tell you to build a 6 bolt, but if you insist in doing the 7 bolt, atleast look into the parts that you'll need to prevent Crankwalk.

Blowing an engine is shitty, Blowing a built engine is even shittier.

Not to mention, Your diving into a 10 second car when it appears you havent even run 12's yet. Maybe you should start with something a little smaller. 50 trims work well.

If you would ask me some questions instead of assuming you would not make an ASS of yourself. I have run 12's in fact, my best pass was 12.2@111. I know its not mind blowing but this was on a stock motor No cams or Fmic. I do have the slip if you want me to take a pic and upload it.

My motor has Not cranked walked (105k), I have a late model engine, which have split thrust Rod bearings. Some believe this was the cure to crank walk, whereas the 95-97 models had the standard bearings.

I've done my research and I have two very knowledgeable guys helping me with my build. Lets just stick to the helpful info and keep wise ass comments to yourself.

Just in case you were wondering, I've had a ACT 2600 on the car atleast 80k miles and No problems.

Thanks
 
If you would ask me some questions instead of assuming you would not make an ASS of yourself. I have run 12's in fact, my best pass was 12.2@111. I know its not mind blowing but this was on a stock motor No cams or Fmic. I do have the slip if you want me to take a pic and upload it.

Then It might be a good idea for you to update your profile so that people can help you when you ask a question. Without updating your profile we automatically assume that your just another rookie thinking that 10's come at the snap of a finger.

My motor has Not cranked walked (105k), I have a late model engine, which have split thrust Rod bearings. Some believe this was the cure to crank walk, whereas the 95-97 models had the standard bearings.

This is another reason which guides me to the Assumption your a rookie. Late model engine were revised yes, but still not in the clear and especially if your running a stronger clutch. Another reason I'll point out, Crankwalk has absolutely NOTHING to do with Rod Bearings, Its a flaw in the Main Bearing. Since when do Rod Bearings have Thrusts.

I've done my research and I have two very knowledgeable guys helping me with my build. Lets just stick to the helpful info and keep wise ass comments to yourself.

Thats great, Knowledgeable people are a great asset to have. You should also remember that when you post a question on an online forum that you are requesting the opinions and aid of people who have been in this situation before and can help you.

In addition, Maybe you should look at my past posts and realize that all my aid has been directed in a helpful manner. Whats the point of posting and wasting time if your not going to offer any helpful advice?

Just in case you were wondering, I've had a ACT 2600 on the car atleast 80k miles and No problems.

Congratulations, Your one of many who have had success, But now go and ask how many people have had problems.

Again, I hope this was helpful in someway, It might not be helpful in your engine related question, but it does teach you some online edicate.
 
Here are pics of my parts, most are for the head and bottomend. Hopefully I can drop this off to the machinist in the next month or so.

Keep checking back for updates.

ACL Race Bearings, Revised Lifters, Valve Guides
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Rods
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Pistons
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SI Nitrided Valves and Ferrea Valve Seals
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Hks Cams 272, Fidanza Cam Gears, Crower Springs and Titanum Retainers
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I'm am also looking for gt35 Ive read alot of great things about the FP35 on EvolutionM forum that people make around 609whp with a good tune, Alot of people told me to go with it instead of garrett gt35 since forced performance built it around the dsm platform, just my .02

The FP HTA 35R is the fastest spooling 35R out for our cars, power depends on your supporting mods fuel system and injectors plus EMS, without a tuning system you wont reach 600AWHP. I have a built 2.0 7 bolt on 880cc injectors on a Precision SC61 turbo making over 500AWHP. FP HTA 35R is the way to go.
 
be careful with that FP 4in intake it does fot through the Rad hoses but its tight and mine kinda smooshed the vacuum line going to my wastegate when I had my 16G, not sure though it should be fine.
 
be careful with that FP 4in intake it does fot through the Rad hoses but its tight and mine kinda smooshed the vacuum line going to my wastegate when I had my 16G, not sure though it should be fine.


The FP intake will not be going on the car with the 18g. I'm still trying to decide what turbo I'm going with. I know the new turbo will be down facing which should leave plenty of room.
 
This is another reason which guides me to the Assumption your a rookie. Late model engine were revised yes, but still not in the clear and especially if your running a stronger clutch. Another reason I'll point out, Crankwalk has absolutely NOTHING to do with Rod Bearings, Its a flaw in the Main Bearing. Since when do Rod Bearings have Thrusts.
QUOTE]

The guy accidentally forgot the 98-99 model had the revised split thrust MAIN BEARING...not rod bearings....people need to ease up on others...

And too be technical 98-99 dont have thrust bearings...They have thrust washers...All the bearing's look exactly the same...Besides the upper and lower bearings...I'm sure you know what I mean...

People make problems it happens were only human after all....

But to the original poster, I like how your building a 7-bolt trying to be different is not always a bad thing.....

I'm building a 7-bolt as well but sticking with the 7-bolt head though...Much better velocity than a 1g head...escpecially when mated to a 2g SMIM....But I'm sure at some point that the 1g head will outflow a 2g head at a given hp or boost limit....

Sooner or later I'll plan on porting my 2g head...
 
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