2G 2g transmission issue...please help me out

[dsmGSTtuner]

I just completed a motor swap in my 2g gst and now im having some clutch/transmission problems. I can start the car while its in gear and when i release the clutch the car moves as normal. When i start the car out of gear then try to put it in gear it just grinds. One time it went into reverse but thats it and it was had to get out of gear. When i dont have the car started then it will go into all gears. Any ideas?

-ive already bled the system and adjusted the clutch pedal

 

[chaclark83]

did you bleed the clutch? What kind of clutch is it? Did it work properly before. Did you check pedal adjustment?

 

[dsmGSTtuner]

its a XTD clutch and yes i bleed everything and adjusted the pedal to perfect point.

 

[chaclark83]

Still it sounds like the cluthc isnt releasing all the way. Could just be a worn slave and or master cyl. Did you drive it with this setup before the swap?

 

[bryanwheat]

Did you use a new fork and pivot ball and if not did you shim the pivot ball? Some of these xtd's have an issue where the disc is too thick and it won't disengage no matter what you do.

 

[Lou98GSX]

you might have to adjust your clutch rod inside the car . check out the jacks transmission video on how to do it .

 

[dsmGSTtuner]

bryanwheat, I used the old fork and pivot ball and i didnt shim the ball or anything. Is it easier to pull just the tranny out or pull the everything, trans and engine?

chaclark83- i have never driven the car.

 

[chaclark83]

easier to pull the tranny. how far is the slave/fork moving?

 

[DSM's 4 life]

have someone go inside the car and press the clutch and watch to see if its fully disengaging then go from there and start with the cheapest fixes first I know mitsu makes a longer push rod to help with disengagement.

STM: SLAVE CYLINDER EXTENSION ROD | 90-99 DSM | MB886949

 

[dsmGSTtuner]

I have a 97 gst and it wouldnt go into gear, it would grind. It managed to go into reverse and as i released the clutch in moved like normal. When i tried to put it in 2nd it wouldnt even grind or anything. It just felt as though it was blocked or something. I removed the tranny and everything was in place. The fork didnt actually "click" into place to the pivot ball though. It was really loose. I never drove the car so i dont know if the tranny is good. It shifts into all gears when the car is off though. Anyone have any ideas? Is there any way to check it while its out?

 

[moronthr33]

Did you check the hydrolic system? Master cly slave cly.

 

[dsmGSTtuner]

yea i checked it....no leaks. I even adjusted the pedal as much as i could before it hit the relief valve. Would it be a clutch issue even if i got it into gear(reverse) once? Plus i think i could start it in gear too

 

[huafist]

1)Have you had someone push the pedal while you watch the fork to see if it moves?

2)Is the fork centered in the boot while at rest?

Those two questions will point you in the direction of the failure - if the fork doesn't move (or moves very litte), yet is centered in the boot, then you have a hydraulic problem. If the fork isn't centered while at rest, then you have a geometry problem (bent fork, work pivot ball/fork, trashed TOB).

 

[dsmGSTtuner]

The fork was centered at its resting point and it had decent amount of motion when i pressed the pedal. The TOB wasnt messed up at all but im changing it just to do it while i have everything out. Should the fork actually "click" into the pivot ball?

 

[dsmGSTtuner]

Im having this issue with my clutch/ transmission. It went into reverse but it felt as though it was locked in there after i got it in. I wouldnt go into any other gear either (it felt as though they were locked out). I tried to get it into first but it would grind. No other gear would grind. I checked out my clutch fork and im wondering if its worn. It felt really loose on the pivot ball and it didnt actually "click" into place. Any ideas?
Please help me out

By the way, I bled everything and adjusted the clutch pedal.
I have a new XTD clutch and a brand new 8lb flywheel.

 

[donniekak]

Will it go into gear with the car off?

 

[dsmGSTtuner]

yea it will. it would even start in gear

 

[dsmGSTtuner]

Okay here the deal, I can start my car in gear but it jumps forward a little bit. When its not started i can shift through all gears but when i start it and try to put it in gear, it grinds and some gears it feels locked out.

-Ive already bled the system and adjusted the pedal.
- I also have a brand new 8lb flywheel and xtd clutch....do i need to shim my pivot ball? I have everything taken apart so if need be ill shim it.

Thanks for the help

 

[BoostedBeaver]

I would check the steep hight on the new combo to insure they are set correctly. The number to shoot for is .610. Shimming the pivot ball helps to regain distance that is lost through wear on the shift fork and the pivot ball. If you did not replace these two components, you could shim the pivot ball to try and keep the pedal engagment in check. There is a ton of information on the effects and why's and here is a good article that was written by a vendor.

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Pay close attention to this sentence. DO NOT ADD A SHIM TO A NEW FORK AND BALL.

Here is a video by Jack explaining the process.

Pivot Ball Shimming - YouTube

You could also replace the pivot ball (few bucks) and the shift fork (50 bucks) if you see a great amount of wear.

Robert

 

[Colt4G63 also]

My take on this is that if the ball and fork are worn, you replace them. If your flywheel has been cut a dozen times, you shim the pivot ball. Period!

 

[NHerron]

Pop the hood, look where the fork sticks out and see where the position is.

Fork sitting towards the passenger side= something worn or the pivot ball needs shimmed
Middle= same
Driver side= it's a-o-k and not a shimming problem

Look here for a picture comparison
TRE TECH TIPS

 

[xtr3me]

Is your clutch pedal assembly worn? Thats the problem ive always had!

 

[BoostedBeaver]

xtr3me hit on a point that we have all over looked. You should definitely check the pedal especially if you have an aftermarket clutch. If you install the tranny and the fork is towards the drivers side (two illustrations found in the links above) then a worn pedal assembly could very well be your issue.

Robert

 

[Lil' Shaun]

My problem was that the new throw out bearing was thinner than the old one. My peddal would go 3/4 down and stop because the fork was hitting the bellhousing.

 

[dsmGSTtuner]

thanks everyone! well i have a brand new fork, TOB and pivot ball coming in the mail. I figured i would change them since i have it apart anyways. Thanks Nherron and robert for the links! really helpful!!!

Is there anything else i should check while its apart?
Oh yea, how do i check the steep hight of the flywheel/clutch combo?