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2G TPS on 1G TB - Finding the Correct Resistance

DSMunknown

Proven Member
4,109
37
Sep 16, 2004
Worcester, Massachusetts
After installing the 1G TB, I decided to get my logger up-n-running again to see what the TPS was seeing. WOT looks good at 100 percent, but that's the only thing I was looking at. After seeing this recent thread I decided to talk to Steve privately. He told me with utilizing a 2G TPS "it's still an issue of adjusting it based on where the internal IPS switches." So I looked around and found this thread and this thread.

Steve mentioned that the guide in PlymouthLaser was (somewhat) incorrect. That I already knew. It only gets us in the ballpark range.

I decided to ask Paul (99gst_racer) about his TB setup and how he went about it. He was also unsure, but is also currently in the same boat, needing to properly adjust his. Have asked a few locals but I'm throwing it out there for now. I'm wondering how I go about properly setting my TPS (as opposed to Paul's or Joe Schmo's). I know I have to set it in terms of resistance, but as Steve said, every car is different. Thought I would just be able to use the logger to get it where I wanted it, but that only works for the 1G TPS.

I still don't fully understand the reason as to why setting the TPS to my engine's specific needs is, because I'm seeing WOT right where I need it, and I don't care much about idle (so long as it stays between 700-1100K) or light throttle conditions.

I must say though, since doing the install, the throttle (under 15% or so) is very on-or-off. Just thought it was my cable that needed more adjusting. (Which I think it does anyways.)
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,411
425
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
I'm not sure I understand your problem since you have a logger. First, I would adjust the throttle cable so it as tight as possible without actually opening the throttle plate. To adjust the tps, I adjust it to read 0% while not pressing the gas pedal. If it is higher than 0%, adjust it until it reads 0% but get it right on the edge of reading 1%. Then check wot to make sure it is still at 100%. The car actually only needs to see 95%? or so to go wot. Make sure nothing is obstructing the pedals path (like a floor mat). Next, I press down the gas pedal as little as possible to make sure the logger reads a little higher than 0%, then sweep through the whole range a few times to check everything in between. For those people with dsmlink you still set the tps manually to 0% but if it doesn't go to exactly 100% at wot you can compensate for this using the dsmlink tps settings.

Why do you have to set it in terms of resistance if the logger reads 0% and 100% (and everything in between) properly when it should?
 

DSMunknown

Proven Member
4,109
37
Sep 16, 2004
Worcester, Massachusetts
Found this old page that helps me understand a little bit better.

Actually, I believe the magic number is 94% or greater. ;)

The logger was my solution to all my TPS concerns (or so I thought) until I spoke with Steve.
 

Kevin Jewer

DSM Wiseman
1,452
238
Jul 25, 2002
LaRue, Ohio
If you can log the idle switch, all of your questions will be answered. As long as it toggles, it's good. But I can tell you from experience that they all toggle somewhere around 1%. As far as I'm concerned this is the only thing to be at all concered about regarding TPS. I don't even see any real use in getting over the 90 some odd percent threshold that signifies WOT, since I don't know that the ECU does anything differently as a result of it. But not being able to get into closed loop idle speed control will piss you off every time. ;)

The proper way to set the throttle cable is so that it is as loose as possible at idle, not as tight as possible. Otherwise you'll be chasing warm idle issues. ;) The best way I have found to do this is to loosen the two adjusting bolts, have someone floor the gas pedal, pull the cable jacket back until the throttle plate is open against the stop, and tighten the bolts. This provides the most possible slack at idle while still providing 100% throttle plate opening. It doesn't get any better. Any other issues are a result of too little travel, 99% of the time cause by the cruise control system parts, but sometimes an obstructed gas pedal as has been mentioned.
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,869
1,722
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado

DSMunknown

Proven Member
4,109
37
Sep 16, 2004
Worcester, Massachusetts
The RRE guide was the first thing I looked at when completing the install a few weeks ago. The way you had worded it, it seemed like this too was just getting me "in the ballpark".

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,869
1,722
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
The way you had worded it, it seemed like this too was just getting me "in the ballpark".

The way I worded what?

Let me be clear since it seems that I haven't. The VFAQ procedure as presented is totally wrong for both 1Gs and 2Gs. If it gets you in the ballpark it's just from dumb luck. If you know enough about electronics to be able to design a voltage divider then you know why it's wrong for a 1G. On a 2G it's where the IPS switches that is important in adjusting the TPS.

2G's with a 1G throttlebody should use a 2G TPS and be adjusted the same way as normal. You have to improvise slightly since you don't have a fixed throttle stop screw on the 1G TB and will have to insert the feeler gauge between the pulley and the 1G IPS. The means that 90 style TB aren't very usable for the swap, but I feel the same way about them on a 1G.
 

Kevin Jewer

DSM Wiseman
1,452
238
Jul 25, 2002
LaRue, Ohio
This adjustment will have no appreciable effect on throttle response. The ECU doesn't care about absolute position, only relative movement.
 
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