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Resolved 2G OEM Knuckle / control arm question

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turbosax2

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4,481
668
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
I'm looking to replace my front knuckles and all four front lower control arms. For the left side, these are the parts I would need.
Front lateral arm (MR296295) - $31.91
Front curved arm (MR296291) - $202.61
Knuckle (MR223628) - $265.77

I was looking through CAPS and found a knuckle kit (knuckle, lateral arm, and curved arm) and it is significantly cheaper than purchasing all 3 separately. The part number for the left kit is MR325009 ($118.47).

Things I know about the separate parts:
96-99 knuckles all contain the same revised part number (includes ABS and non-ABS)
95-99 lateral arms all contain the same revised part number
95-99 curved arms do have a few different part numbers, but I think they now are all revised and the same part
95 VIN displays **NO DATA** when I try to view a knuckle, but shows the part number for the knuckle kit
96-99 VIN's display **NO DATA** when I try to view the knuckle kit, but shows the part number for the knuckle

My question is: Will the knuckle kit work on my '99? I've talked to a few places that sell OEM parts and nobody can confirm yes or no for me. The only way to find out is to order the kit, and if it doesn't work too bad for me.
 
Installed that kit last night; feels like a brand new car!

Drives way straighter without having aligned it yet, doesnt pull/jerk to the side under braking or rough road conditions, going later today to get it realigned.
 
had it re-aligned......again.

FYI if you go in for your 90day warranty alignment at sears, dont mention to the counter guy, even if he seems like a cool dude, that between their last alignment and the one youre trying to get covered under warranty that you replaced the entire suspension.....

I had to pay the $70 all over again. You know what though, id gladly pay $500 to get the results I currently have.

The car drives SOOOOOOOOOO much better. holy crap. Any used car I get now over 50k will get this treatment. Like a new car, I was hitting bumps on the way to work that before made me feel like i was on the bridge of the enterprise getting hit by torpedoes; now its like they arent even there. Ridges and rough roads; nothing. Doesnt even make my wheel slightly pull over harsh surfaces. I drove for a good mile today without any steering input before it started to wander.

I did have a slight creaking today when backing out of my driveway and turning. Though the car has sat since sunday morning when i got it back from Sears. I only added two pumps of grease to the tie rod end fittings though, probably could use more.
 
Yea, you might have saved a few bucks but you shouldn't be that cheap. LOL New these parts can be 600.00 or more a side so getting them from a dealer for like 300 shipped is amazing.

These are from Mitsubishi and ball joints are very stiff and hard to move
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Might have to redo it all again sooner than later.

Last week the drivers Lateral Control arm balljoint started dying and giving me horrible creaking noises. Replaced.

Also noticed the Lower Control arm boot is cracked already on both sides.

Sway Bar Endlinks are all already torn on both sets of boots.

I still have horrible alignment issues, nobody can seem to get the car to drive straight, and even with a newer set of tires it still tracks under uneven pavement/grooves/etc. Each time i replace a part it feels good.........for a week.


bout to give up on this DSM and sell it and find another. Think the original owners use of ghetto ebay coilovers and blown struts for its life has KILLED this cars backbone. 90mi commute daily though, and 130k on the clock (had it since ~105k). Other than these goddamn suspension issues, shes running great.
 
Just wondering are they a part number just for the lower control arms and lateral arms? or maybe lower control arms lateral arms and upper control arms? dont really need the spindle...
 
Thomas, have you had your wheels and tires roadforce balanced? I work on tires everyday and honestly the only way to get correct alignment on your car is to have your tires roadforced before hand.

Each individual tire will have its own amount of lateral pull. Each tire will also be individually out of round. A very few amount of tires are perfectly round. The only machine I know of that any shop uses to measure both of these is a Hunter GSP9700. With this machine you can individually measure, tag and turn each tire to achieve the least amount of pull and vibration on the vehicle.

It's a difficult process to explain in writing but honestly its the only way to properly have your tires balanced. I've seen cars come into my shop with a measured 119lbs of pull in either direction just by how the tires are mounted and balanced on the vehicle. Your alignment guy can't fix that, especially a usually shotty Sears tech.
 
It seems if you order them seperate its so much higher. lateral arm 38 bucks, compression 144 bucks, so why couldnt I just order part number 325090 and 325010 and just not use the spindles??? Thanks..
 
I called Mitsubishi parts today to ask them a few questions and they said the MR325090 and 325010 wouldn't work on my 95 GST, he said those part numbers is for a GSX. He said the lateral arm is 58 bucks each and the curved arm was 206 each. Will those part numbers above work on a GST? If not I can handle the 58 bucks a pop, but 206 is a lot....
 
Not to resurrect an older thread, but I just got off the phone with the Mitsu parts guy, and he just said that the number I gave him indeed says kit, but does not come with anything other than the knuckle. I would chance it and say order it, but because it's a special order item, they won't give a refund. Can anyone verify that these two numbers (MR325009,010) actually come with the two lower control arms? I've seen the pictures that people have posted in this thread, but that was a couple of years ago. Has Mitsu changed anything?
 
Not to resurrect an older thread, but I just got off the phone with the Mitsu parts guy, and he just said that the number I gave him indeed says kit, but does not come with anything other than the knuckle. I would chance it and say order it, but because it's a special order item, they won't give a refund. Can anyone verify that these two numbers (MR325009,010) actually come with the two lower control arms? I've seen the pictures that people have posted in this thread, but that was a couple of years ago. Has Mitsu changed anything?

If you by the knuckle assembly from extremepsi.com it comes with both lower arms for sure. I just bought both sides a couple months back. The part number appears to be the same too but does not include the 010. Hope this helps.
 
If you by the knuckle assembly from extremepsi.com it comes with both lower arms for sure. I just bought both sides a couple months back. The part number appears to be the same too but does not include the 010. Hope this helps.

Yeah, I talked to them just a few minutes ago. The catch is that I can get those two part numbers at cost (wholesale acct.) and don't have to pay shipping. So ~$165 compared to $240 and then shipping on top? If it comes down to it, then I will, but I just would like to save those 80 or so dollars.
 
Yeah, I talked to them just a few minutes ago. The catch is that I can get those two part numbers at cost (wholesale acct.) and don't have to pay shipping. So ~$165 compared to $240 and then shipping on top? If it comes down to it, then I will, but I just would like to save those 80 or so dollars.

Just an fyi for those still interested, the part numbers are still good for the kits, though your parts counter guy will probably give you grief until they see the parts themselves. I even called Mitsubishi corporate, and they think its just a knuckle for those numbers. :p
 
Alright, thread resurrection. I have an early 95 GSX, bought this kit mainly for the control arms. Do I need to replace the knuckle in an early 95 for the newer control arms to fit correctly? Or are all 2g front knuckles the same?
 
From post #14.

The reason the "Knuckle package" only exists for 95 is because the package converts a 95 car to post-95 spec. Among other subtle differences, the ball joint pins are shorter on the 95 arms and the 'heel' of the knuckle, through which the ball joint pins pass, is thinner on a 95 knuckle - meaning that 95 arms aren't safe on a post-95 car (threads don't lock properly in the nut) and that post-95 arms interfere with the driveshaft when fitted to a 95.

This all makes buying the 95 package something of a bargain, particularly if you're fighting an axle to the hub. I haven't bought the kit in a few years, but it was remarkably cheap last time I did.
 
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