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2g GSX questions

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Nonrml4

15+ Year Contributor
129
4
Dec 11, 2005
Toledo, Ohio
I've been looking at buying a 2g GSX, and this weekend I'm planning on looking at one at a semi local dealership and was wondering what some of the common things to look for are. I already read about the cw and how to tell (seeing if the crank pulley moves at all, clutch sticking when turning) but I was wondering what some of the other issues are. Either maintenance issues or common things that go bad after a while. I searched and didn't really find what I was looking for, so any help would be great. John
 
They should, or let them do it in front of you so you can see the results. They have fairly low mileage. However, make sure the timing belt has been changed. It should've been changed at 60k give or take a little.
 
So much to look at.I start with a look at all the gaps between doors and fenders,fenders and hood,headlights and hood,headlights and bumper.Look between the core support and radiator.Check the radiator brackets and make sure the plastic locater pins are in the center of the rubber.Look where the front fenders bolt under the hood,look for gaps under the fender,washers,fender bolts where the paint marks don't line up.Make sure to look at everything under the hood.Have someone start the car and stick your head in there and listen,listen to the trans.Have the person in the car push the clutch in and out.Listen for bad bearings in the trans,clicking at the drivers side is an early warning of crankwalk.Listen for knocking from the engine,listen near the pulleys.Take it for a test ride,windows up and radio and fans turned off.Listen for whining,growling,clunking and scratching during gear changes.Other people are going to have lots of other good suggestions.I've bought over 200 DSMs in the last 3 years.I get mostly no runs so I don't do a lot of test rides.Thats why most of my suggestions are body and frame related.There was a 97 or 98 GST listed in the tuners classified.I asked why both airbags were blown and the kid said he must have run over a curb or something.He listed it again a few weeks later and listed a bunch of stuff he had receipts for.On the list had a lifetime guarantee on frame straightening.Anyway,he wanted too much for a crankwalked,bent frame car.Good Luck
 
JohnnyC said:
Make sure the timing belt has been changed. It should've been changed at 60k give or take a little.
If it hasn't been changed how difficult is it too change yourself? I've done a compression check on a Civic before, is it the same type of deal with a dsm just pull the sparkplug, screw the compression tester in then take out the injector fuse, Then foot to the floor on the gas then crank seven to eight times? Thanks John
 
Nonrml4 said:
If it hasn't been changed how difficult is it too change yourself? I've done a compression check on a Civic before, is it the same type of deal with a dsm just pull the sparkplug, screw the compression tester in then take out the injector fuse, Then foot to the floor on the gas then crank seven to eight times? Thanks John

Looks exactly how I'd do it. But I also unplug the coil pack.
 
Spyderman7 said:
So much to look at.I start with a look at all the gaps between doors and fenders,fenders and hood,headlights and hood,headlights and bumper.Look between the core support and radiator.Look where the front fenders bolt under the hood,look for gaps under the fender,washers,fender bolts where the paint marks don't line up.
So essentially all of the body Stuff? Do you recommend car fax's? or not? I've heard some people don't like them since they may not be 100% accurate. John
 
Are there any other major things to check for other than cw, the compression, and making sure the timing belt has been changed? Are there any seals that go bad or any weird little things I can look for. John
 
Can't hurt to check for shaft play in the turbo, even if you plan to change it out right away, it will give you some more leverage room if it's got play.

As for Carfax, definitely do that. Search around on some forums, you can probably find someone that will do it for free. That way you'll know if you're buying a salvage title etc.
 
Dark_Horse said:
Can't hurt to check for shaft play in the turbo, even if you plan to change it out right away, it will give you some more leverage room if it's got play.
How would I go about checking that? Also what kind of tools are needed and how long does it take? The dealership Im going to is almost an hour away so I'd prefer not to drag my whole toolbox with me. I plan on eventually changing it out with a 16g.
Dark_Horse said:
As for Carfax, definitely do that. Search around on some forums, you can probably find someone that will do it for free. That way you'll know if you're buying a salvage title etc.
I definitely will, but I know people that swear by them and then other people say that stuff can happen that isn't reported at all. BTW isn't it illegal for a dealership to tell you its not salvage if you ask them point blank if it is.
 
Nonrml4 said:
How would I go about checking that? Also what kind of tools are needed and how long does it take? The dealership Im going to is almost an hour away so I'd prefer not to drag my whole toolbox with me. I plan on eventually changing it out with a 16g. I definitely will, but I know people that swear by them and then other people say that stuff can happen that isn't reported at all. BTW isn't it illegal for a dealership to tell you its not salvage if you ask them point blank if it is.

Re: shaft play, all you have to do is remove the intake pipe (plastic tube leading to the turbo) that connects to the turbo inlet. See Here for a better idea of what I'm talking about (bottom pic). You'll need a screwdriver to remove the intake pipe from the turbo. Once you can see the turbo blades, grab them and give em a good yank. If they move much at all, you'll need to rebuild the turbo.

As for carfax, yes, the dealer does have to disclose that it's a salvage title. But it never hurts to check the carfax either...wrecks etc.
 
If you have the equipment or can get your hands on it (which shouldn't be hard) you need to do a leak-down test...it's more important than a compression test. A compression test will tell you what condition the engine is in as far as cylinder pressures are concerned but doesn't tell you where the pressure is going. A leak-down test will tell you if the pressure is going into the cooling system by presenting bubbles in the coolant. If you listen to the exhaust exit and hear a hissing noise than the exhaust valves may not be seating properly or you have a leak somewhere in the exhaust system...etc. If you take off the oil cap and hear noise comming from it than you probably have pressure leaking into the head. It's actually very simple to find out exactly where the compression is going rather than just that it's...going. If you have any questions...post em' up! Good luck.
:thumb: :dsm:
 
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