Resolved 2G FIAV part number

[spyderdrifter]

If any of you have a part number for a '95 GST FIAV and can give it to me, that'd be awesome. Also, can I buy this as it's own seperate part, or is it a part of the throttle body and therfore the TB would have to be ordered? Thanks.

 

[Absit]

Last I knew the FIAV was part of the TB, you can not order it on its own.

 

[BigBeans]

As another option, you could always just block it off for free (search for the article on here) or spend a few bucks on a blockoff plate.

 

[19Eclipse90]

MD614559 - Fast Idle Air Valve
MD614406 - FIAV O-Ring (gasket)

JNZtuning lists the FIAV for $198, so I would definitely consider the free block-off option.

 

[spyderdrifter]

MD614559 - Fast Idle Air Valve
MD614406 - FIAV O-Ring (gasket)

JNZtuning lists the FIAV for $198, so I would definitely consider the free block-off option.

I've been reading about the block off plates and some members that have idle issues so they block theirs off. Could blocking it off actually lower my idle from 3k back down to normal operating levels? I'm gonna go read into it some more here shortly. If it can lower the idle, I'm sure somewhere on here I'll find a how-to so I'll be looking for that as well. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Absit]

MD614559 - Fast Idle Air Valve
MD614406 - FIAV O-Ring (gasket)
JNZtuning lists the FIAV for $198, so I would definitely consider the free block-off option.

Well then, my mistake.

I've been reading about the block off plates and some members that have idle issues so they block theirs off. Could blocking it off actually lower my idle from 3k back down to normal operating levels? I'm gonna go read into it some more here shortly. If it can lower the idle, I'm sure somewhere on here I'll find a how-to so I'll be looking for that as well. Thanks for the advice.

Yes, if the FIAV is bad, and you'd know this if you bothered to search at all, it may let a lot of air bypass the throttle plate, raising idle by quite a bit.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Yes, if the FIAV is bad, and you'd know this if you bothered to search at all, it may let a lot of air bypass the throttle plate, raising idle by quite a bit.

Well thanks for letting me look like an idiot who doesn't search the forum before posting my questions. I acctually did search around, but I was looking for very specific issues, so it is a good chance I missed something. If the post title doesn't look like what I'm looking for, I normally pass it. If this was not your intention, then my bad. That's how I took it. Your actual help would be better served in this forum and any negative opinions should be sent in the appropriate PM or however else it can be delivered....

 

[Absit]

My bad, didn't realize you were a mod sent to lecture me.
And I could have sworn I actually did help.. Truth is, you should go learn how the idle systems on a DSM work, I know you can find the information by searching, I had to find it somewhere..

I guess I shouldn't have posted at all.

 

[BigBeans]

I've been reading about the block off plates and some members that have idle issues so they block theirs off. Could blocking it off actually lower my idle from 3k back down to normal operating levels? I'm gonna go read into it some more here shortly. If it can lower the idle, I'm sure somewhere on here I'll find a how-to so I'll be looking for that as well. Thanks for the advice.

My car runs better with the blockoff plate than it ever did with a FIAV. The idle is smoother and consistent.

If your ISC is working, BISS is adjusted and you still have issues, the only thing left (besides a leak) is the FIAV.

 

[LiquidX]

If you are going to block off yiur FIAV only (keeping ICS) then consider utilizing the article I wrote. If you want to remove the ICS as well then get a block off plate. Remember there are 2 plates, block off and by-pass.

You can either try to re adjust the FIAV valve to get it back to where it should be or just close it (free).
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/391977-free-fiav-block.html

 

[spyderdrifter]

My car runs better with the blockoff plate than it ever did with a FIAV. The idle is smoother and consistent.

If your ISC is working, BISS is adjusted and you still have issues, the only thing left (besides a leak) is the FIAV.

I have adjusted my BISS but haven't yet checked to see if the ISC is actually working. I watched a video of how to check it here on the forum last night, so I'll be doing that tonight when I get off work. Either way, I do already have a replacement ISC that I bought at O'Rieley's that was cheaper than the one in the link with the video. After checking the one I bought, it is in fact the correct genuine OEM unit with the black case and mitsu logo stamped on it (only paid $86.-- instead of DSMISC Automotive's $137.75 + $5.85 shipping)

If you are going to block off yiur FIAV only (keeping ICS) then consider utilizing the article I wrote. If you want to remove the ICS as well then get a block off plate. Remember there are 2 plates, block off and by-pass.

You can either try to re adjust the FIAV valve to get it back to where it should be or just close it (free).
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/391977-free-fiav-block.html

I did read your article for the free block off. I am considering doing the mod tonight, but I didn't think the article was clear as to if the free mod blocks the ISC as well as the FAIV. I only want to block the FIAV while keeping the ISC functional. If this is listed in your article, then I probably missed it, but I did read it more than once. Could you shed some light on this for me? Thanks. (great article btw )

 

[LiquidX]

Rockauto.com would have been a tad cheaper for same quality BTW. Mines been holding up perfectly for over a year.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Rockauto.com would have been a tad cheaper for same quality BTW. Mines been holding up perfectly for over a year.

Thanks for the site. I just checked it out and there's one that is $2.00 cheaper than what I paid, and one that's $14.00 cheaper. For any of you out there with the need for a new ISC and are reading this, the direct link to the page is: 1995 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GST Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve.
Price will probably increase just a little with shipping though.

Props go to LiQUiDx though for offering the site. I'm not saving that site in my favorites bar. Glad to see a site that has actual product pics with the descriptions.


Well, no success....

I did the FIAV mod, but I didn't remove it from the throttle body. I removed the freeze plug and turned the dial thing all the way clockwise (reinstalled freeze plug), and capped off the coolant nipples on the outside of the assembly.

Does this method of blocking the coolant lines work, or do I need to remove it from the throttle body and actually block it inside?

If this still works the same way, I'm clueless as to what is wrong. I adjusted the screw on the throttle piece with the spring. I'm assuming this is the BISS since I haven't seen a pic of which screw it is. also there's the screw on the top side of the throttle body by the TPS (in pic provided).

Mine is completely stripped, as in, I cannot turn it in either direction since the cross tip indentation is rounded out and won't even allow turning by flat tip.

Does this sound like I just need to suck it up and buy a new throttle body, FIAV, and TPS?

I also installed the new ISC tonight. The only real changes I experienced was a slightly lower idle (now 2200-2500 rpm instead of 3k rpm) which flew back up to 3k as soon as I put it in reverse to attempt driving (it literally slammed into gear instead of going normal). So I decided against driving due to the rise in idle again.

I'm tired of beating my brain about this problem.

 

[LiquidX]

You are pointing to the BISS. You can buy a new one for $7. You did the block off properly and yes, it's stated in the article that it only blocks the FIAV while retaining the ICS. It's the equivalent of a by pass plate but for...free.

If your BISS is too far out of adjustment then the ICS cannot adjust properly to maintain idle speed. It has a set range and once you are out of it's range it's not working properly.

 

[spyderdrifter]

You are pointing to the BISS. You can buy a new one for $7. You did the block off properly and yes, it's stated in the article that it only blocks the FIAV while retaining the ICS. It's the equivalent of a by pass plate but for...free.

If your BISS is too far out of adjustment then the ICS cannot adjust properly to maintain idle speed. It has a set range and once you are out of it's range it's not working properly.

Well, I feel like a tard... guess I would always be pointing at what I need to fix without realizing it


So this being said, all I have to do is take one of my screw extractors and remove the bad BISS, and simply screw in a new one? If so, do you have a site I can buy one from, or is that a dealer only part? Also, am I correct in thinking there's a post here on Tuners that tells how to adjust the BISS (actually think I've already seen such posts during all my searches for the fiav)? Lastly, what's the screw call that I thought was the BISS (on back side of TB)? Thanks for all your help, definately good rep submitted....

 

[Absit]

Most anything you can get from a dealer you can get from JNZ and many vendors. Searching will tell you how to adjust the BISS.

 

[OneBad2L]

You can go to extremepsi, and use their search for BISS screw and BISS o-ring. You'll want them both. They also have the rubber cap that covers the hole you can grab too if you want it.

The BISS screw is plastic, heat the tip of a flat head and push it in there. You'll then be able to back it out.

And that screw on the back side is the SAS. Speed adjusting screw, It shouldn't be adjusted though, unless someone has messed with it.

Have you done a boost leak test? Most high idle problems are cured by doing so and sealing all the leaks you can find.

 

[spyderdrifter]

You can go to extremepsi, and use their search for biss screw and biss o-ring. You'll want them both. They also have the rubber cap that covers the hole you can grab too if you want it.

The Biss screw is plastic, heat the tip of a flat head and push it in there. You'll then be able to back it out.

And that screw on the back side is the sas. Speed adjusting screw. It shouldn't be adjusted though, unless someone has messed with it.

Have you done a boost leak test? Most high idle problems are cured by doing so and sealing all the leaks you can find.

Thanks. I'll be checking out extremepsi out today then. I'll wait to remove my BISS until I have the new parts. Good info

I just ordered the new BISS screw and o-ring. So if that doesn't make my car idle right, I'm probably gonna sell it.