2G Eclipse Overheating Issues. PLEASE HELP!

[Depriesticles]

Hey everyone,

I have a 96 eclipse RS with a stock 420a. For the past several months, my car has been getting really hot while driving. It doesnt do it all the time, and seems to happen mostly when I have the A/C on, but will occur with it off as well on a cool day.

Well, so far I have replaced, the thermostat, the radiator, temp sensor, coolant, burped all the air out, ive added "water wetter", and made sure my fans are turning on. Last week my check engine light came on, and I took it to shucks and read a P0125 code, which is "Insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control". When I was changing my temp sensor, I unplugged my ecu to clear the code, and it went off for now, but my car is still overheating and I am not sure the code wont come back. My car is warming up with normal time too.

What could this be? Could my water pump be going out? I dont think I have a coolant leak anywhere. I know I dont have air in my system. Im stumped and I really need help.

 

[eeeewidner]

What type of thermostat did you use. Just because you installed a new one doesnt mean it not defective. 1 out of 6 thermostats fail right out of the box. I have seen that the higher temp fail-safes fail more than the cheaper ones.

P0125 Excessive Time To Enter Closed Loop
Possible Causes Setting Conditions

* Check the operation of the thermostat (it may be stuck open)
* ECT sensor connector is damaged (check pins for damage, and for moisture)
* ECT sensor has failed
* IAT sensor has failed
* MAF sensor has failed

Engine runtime over 30 seconds, engine speed 1,800-4,000 rpm, ECT signal more than 104ºF, HO2S 1/1 signal varying, volumetric efficiency from 16-62%, MAP signal from 24-77 kPa, and the PCM detected that the ECT signal dropped below 104ºF or the engine did not reach the Closed Loop temperature, either condition met after 5 minutes.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Did you try flushing the system really good? How is the radiator could be that it is clogged up and not allowing proper flow and cooling like it should. Not to sure why else it could be I'll think about it for abit and if anything else comes to mind I'll write back. God bless

 

[Depriesticles]

Thanks for the help people!

I used a gates thermostat. I know its working properly because when I bleed the air and wait for a while for the thermostat to open, I will get new air bubbles when it opens and clears out the air.

I did flush the system very well, and the radiator is new as well. It might be plugged, but it is doing exactly the same thing as it was with my old radiator. The symptoms didnt change at all when I put the new radiator at all.

After I cleared that code, it hasnt showed back up since, and its my daily driver.


After thinking about it further, there are a couple of other things that might help with the diagnosis. When I bleed the air, I have to use a coolant funnel because my coolant overflows when I start my car with the cap off. It doesnt matter if its warm or cold, if I start my car with my radiator cap off, the coolant will start pouring out.

Also, my car will go back to normal temperature if I put my heater on full blast. It will do that every time. When it gets hot, I just turn the heater on full blast and it falls back to normal pretty quickly. This is nice ### I dont have to pull over to let my car cool, but It would be nice and less worrying if my car would stop getting hot.

 

[LD25Delta9]

You, sir, have a clogged coolant passage. I'll put money on it. Your head isn't getting cooled properly, bottom line, and when there is a clogged passage or blown headgasket, water tends to blow out of the fill spout. You should check the condition of your engine oil. If it looks like chocolate milk, there is coolant mixing in with the oil.

 

[Depriesticles]

That would make sence. My oil looks good, I just changed it and it didnt look like there was any water in it. The head was rebuild 15k miles ago, and only has that many miles on the head gasket. How would I get the clog out?

 

[banishedmunk]

perform a compression test just to verify that it isnot from a blown head gasket. Also when you bleed the system of air do it with the heater running full blast to cycle the coolant through there and get the bubbles out of the heater core.

 

[Depriesticles]

Awesome. Ill definitely do that. Thanks do much for the help. Ill be doing that this weekend and let ya know how it goes.

 

[pgarland]

That would make sence. My oil looks good, I just changed it and it didnt look like there was any water in it. The head was rebuild 15k miles ago, and only has that many miles on the head gasket. How would I get the clog out?

When you flushed the coolant, did you backflush the whole system or did you just flush the radiator?

 

[Depriesticles]

I just drained the radiator to put my new one in. I didnt do anything other than that. What should I do to get it done correctly? Er...how would I properly backflush the whole system is what I mean?

 

[dalesmitsu]

I just drained the radiator to put my new one in. I didnt do anything other than that. What should I do to get it done correctly? Er...how would I properly backflush the whole system is what I mean?

Good question, I like to know this myself.

I didn't feel like typing the steps out, make you anyone confused but here's a video link. This could be what backflushing the coolant system means. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't want to mislead anyone.

YouTube - How to Flush Coolant : Connecting a Back Flow Prevention Valve

 

[Locke]

I didn't feel like typing the steps out, make you anyone confused but here's a video link. This could be what backflushing the coolant system means. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't want to mislead anyone.

Those back-flush kits are available at your local parts store for cheap. They come with the tee, valve, and deflector thing.

 

[Depriesticles]

Good to know. Thanks!

 

[pgarland]

Those back flush kits are great (and like Locke says, cheap), and I recommend installing one on the car, as it gives you a handy way to insure you're getting that crud out of the block when you change coolant (corrosion, etc.). They're not really necessary if you flush your system correctly though. If you're not willing to go through the trouble of cutting into a heater hose to install that kit, than get yourself some radiator flush (at any auto parts store) and follow the instructions on the bottle.

Here is a you tube video outlining the steps on draining, flushing, and refilling the coolant system. It's generic, and obviously made by Prestone, but covers all the steps. Just make sure that you fill through the radiator cap on our cars, trying to refill the system through the overflow tank won't work.

YouTube - coolant flush/fill

Just make sure to take your time, and don't skip any steps (that flush stuff doesn't mix with coolant/antifreeze, so don't skip the step of filling with water, running for however long it says to on the bottle, then draining before putting in the coolant, or else you will have issues). I'm willing to bet your coolant passages are just gummed up and could use a good cleaning. And if this doesn't solve the problem, well, at least you eliminated this as a possible cause, right?

Hope this helps.

 

[Depriesticles]

Well, I flushed out the whole system over the weekend and bled every little bit of air out of the entire system. I even went and bought a new radiator cap, and bled it out again before I put it on...and it still overheats. Its only overheating when I have the A/C on. It will get a bit hot without it on when its warm outside, but never 3/4 or more up the gauge like it does with the A/C on, and it will go back down on its own.

I dont know what the A/C is doing to the system, but its been 90+ degrees here and it blows not being able to use it. . Does anybody know why it would only overheating with the A/C?

 

[mitsubishi98gs]

check to make shure that there is nothing in front oy your a/c condenser like a plastic bag or leaves and dirt