Having some issues with the Eclipse, please help!

[doug684]

Well for about a month I didn't drive my 96 GS. Didn't start it or anything. Well I went out to start it and it would like turn over, but not start. After a couple of tries is started, but was rough and sounded like a v8 lobing idle.

When I first start it up after it's been off for awhile it does this. This clears right up after about 30 seconds. The problem I am having is now that the idle bounces between 200-1000rpm. It only does it once it warms up. It idles fine cold, but as soon as it warms up it does it. What could this be?

Also for some reason the sensor that is on the thermostat housing has been cut. Who ever had it before me cut the wires instead of just unplugging it WTF What does this sensor do?

I have already replaced the plug wires, the spark plugs, the battery (needed a new one anyways) and the starter (thought it was part of another starting problem, still not sure, but think it's the ignition).

 

[VelocitàPaola]

My car does that after I don't start it for a few months. In my case, it's almost always a fuel problem; the fuel gets gummed up and clogs the injectors. Try adding an injector cleaner to the gas tank to see if that helps. Whenever you leave you car for an extended period, add a fuel stabilizer of some sort. Seafoam can actually function as both a stabilizer and a cleaner.

The sensor you're probably referring to on the thermostat housing is the coolant temperature sensor.

 

[BigRand]

Try replacing the fuel filter as well.

And not that you have many to worry about, but check all the vacume lines and making sure they are on all the way.

I dunno, if It idle's fine cold, but has trouble when it warms up, then it sounds like a sensor problem when the ecu switches from open loop to closed loop (or closed to open, went dislexic on that one).

Clipsit has been having this problem too....but he's boosted so it could be anything.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

then it sounds like a sensor problem when the ecu switches from open loop to closed loop (or closed to open, went dislexic on that one).

eh? Isn't closed loop when when the ECU is mostly using it's own long term fuel trims for maximum efficiency (80% throttle or less) while building up the short terms from sensor input, and open loop is when it's going mainly by sensors for maximum performance (WOT)?

I agree it sounds like a possible sensor though.

 

[BigRand]

This is correct....but I know that the car doesn't look at sensor such as o2 senosor and possibly intake temp and some others when you start it up, and its cold out. It wants to run extremely rich as to compensate for any harsh conditions, then it leans out once it starts reading the sensors and attaining data about its enviornment.

But ya your right about the open and closed loop thing, I get them confused alot, and mix it with the cold start vs. warmed up scenario.

 

[doug684]

Ok so check vac lines and add some injector cleaner. Then what after that? Someone said it might be my IAC valve. I don't see why a sensor would go bad after it ran fine, then sat, now it's messed up?

Would a bad sensor through a CEL? I'm not getting a CEL at all.

At first I thought it might have been a bad spark plug. So I changed them and they did look old. After I started it it ran fine till it warmed up then it started that reving crap.

Where is the fuel filter located at? I'm use to working on Honduh's so I'm not use to the

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Someone said it might be my IAC valve.
...
After I started it it ran fine till it warmed up then it started that reving crap.

Oh... it's surging a little at idle is it? Well, we don't have IAC valves, we have IAC motors and throttle position sensors (TPS). It's likely that your TPS is shot: I had similar symptoms which prompted me to change the TPS a few months ago.

 

[BigRand]

Where is the fuel filter located at?QUOTE]

Assuming your 96 is a late 96 and obd2, then it would be underneath the car towards the back passenger tire next to the tank. Just follow the fuel lines under the car.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Assuming your 96 is a late 96 and obd2, then it would be underneath the car towards the back passenger tire next to the tank. Just follow the fuel lines under the car.

If it has the early version fuel system, it's on the firewall below the brake fluid and windshield washer reservoirs.

 

[doug684]

How much are TPS, IAC motors, and fuel filters? I don't want to put a tone of money in it when I am trying to sell it.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

How much are TPS, IAC motors, and fuel filters? I don't want to put a tone of money in it when I am trying to sell it.

The TPS and IAC are about $50-$60 each (new from Rock Auto, Car Parts.com, Autozone, etc.).

The fuel filter can be anywhere from $10-$30.

 

[doug684]

Ok I pulled the IAC out and cleaned all the black gunk on it. Warmed up and started the reving again. I don't think it's a bad fuel filter. A bad fuel filter would be acting up contantly, not just when to motor warms up right?

Is there not an idle adjustment scew on these? I can't find one anywhere.

 

[clipsit]

Ok I pulled the IAC out and cleaned all the black gunk on it. Warmed up and started the reving again. I don't think it's a bad fuel filter. A bad fuel filter would be acting up contantly, not just when to motor warms up right?

Is there not an idle adjustment scew on these? I can't find one anywhere.

First off...do you have a CEL on? Next, have you had your car scanned to see what it is? I still have this problem, but it was my IAC motor, that was bad...I have the problem still, b/c I am turbo and sometimes it just does it on alot of aftermarket turbo cars. This is what it definitely sounds like. I suggest that you have your car scanned. Then check or replace what you can, like IAC motor. It could be your TPS but that is adjustable, but it can go bad also. I bought my IAC at autozone...a least here in WA they are the only ones who have it besides the dealership, that I know of. Let us know, but that prob sounds like your IAC, you never know with these cars...

 

[doug684]

No not getting a CEL at all. So what just take it to the Mitsubishi dealer and let them scan it? How much does that run? I'm not getting a code so will scanning it show anything?

 

[clipsit]

No not getting a CEL at all. So what just take it to the Mitsubishi dealer and let them scan it? How much does that run? I'm not getting a code so will scanning it show anything?

If you have no CEL then you probably have some other problem, but you can take it too an Autozone or Schucks or whatever they have there in Alabama. They do it for free. B/c you could have a problem with that light, but unlikely. The dealer will do it, but they may tell you some wack stuff, so watch out for that. Let us know.

 

[WMD]

Just a little backtrack..

I was quoted $330 for a new TPS from a mitsu dealer Thieves (dont worry, i didnt buy one). But always buy from stores like nappa, they have the same stuff only cheaper, always.

But I know your pain. My car does something similar and I just cant seem to figure it out. My RPM's some times dives or sticks after I press the clutch, and only when its warmed up too( and no, its not the slave cyl.).

Idel gremlins I tells ya!!!

Edit: And you have the same year as me, hmmm

 

[4g64 tuner]

I have replaced the o2 sensors, my iac, maf sensor , spark plugs and wires, and still no fix to the problem?, I get no ECL. I was thinkn bout changing the ecu since it controls a lot of the fuel and air mixture? Have any ideas on ### I can do besides keep wasting my money on parts that don't fix it???