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2G 2G AWD Sudden Notchy or Hard Shifting / Clutch Disengagement Issues

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1greyawdtsi

15+ Year Contributor
97
16
Sep 18, 2009
Seattle, Washington
Hi, Last week I suddenly experienced trouble smoothly shifting my manual transmission.
While I can still get it in all gears I have to depress the clutch all the was to the floor. Also if I rev in 1st gear with the clutch depressed all the way the car will creep forward.

A little history. About 1500 miles ago I replaced the clutch with a correctly resurfaced flywheel with correct step height, new shift fork, pivot ball, Jesus clip, braided stainless steel brake line to the slave cylinder and new Act 2100 pressure plate and sprung street disc.

Since experiencing the new notchy or hard shifting I have checked for leaks to no avail, (found none), thoroughly bleed the system and adjusted the system per Jack's video, double checked the fork in the fork hole it sits more toward the driver side.

I'm just looking for people's experience if anyone had a similar situation and found a resolution? Especially before I hit it with my purse and just buy a new clutch master cylinder and slave, thank you!
 
I had a similar problem, but mine was aggravated by the crankwalk I have in my car.
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Jafro has a very detailed video on how to adjust the clutch. You can play with the adjustment rod of the clutch master cylinder, just get under the dash and loosen up the locking nut, the rod usually can be shortened or extended by hand. You can play with the engaging point, and that should get rid of the problem.
 
I had a similar problem, but mine was aggravated by the crankwalk I have in my car.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Jafro has a very detailed video on how to adjust the clutch. You can play with the adjustment rod of the clutch master cylinder, just get under the dash and loosen up the locking nut, the rod usually can be shortened or extended by hand. You can play with the engaging point, and that should get rid of the problem.
I understand I lost my original motor in this same car to crankwalk at almost 200,000 miles. Thanks for the Jafro link I forgot about this series of videos.
 
Hi, Last week I suddenly experienced trouble smoothly shifting my manual transmission.
While I can still get it in all gears I have to depress the clutch all the was to the floor. Also if I rev in 1st gear with the clutch depressed all the way the car will creep forward.

A little history. About 1500 miles ago I replaced the clutch with a correctly resurfaced flywheel with correct step height, new shift fork, pivot ball, Jesus clip, braided stainless steel brake line to the slave cylinder and new Act 2100 pressure plate and sprung street disc.

Since experiencing the new notchy or hard shifting I have checked for leaks to no avail, (found none), thoroughly bleed the system and adjusted the system per Jack's video, double checked the fork in the fork hole it sits more toward the driver side.

I'm just looking for people's experience if anyone had a similar situation and found a resolution? Especially before I hit it with my purse and just buy a new clutch master cylinder and slave, thank you!
I went through something similar a few months back. I was also doing the Jacks method. My solution came somewhere between these 3 changes.

1. I didnt have a lot of mechnical experience, so i was doing all this adjusting with the car cold. Someone told me to make the adjustments after the car is warmed up so I did.

2. No matter how much i bled i still had air. in the system. I broke out my old mityvac and still pulled more air out of it. I read that there is some pocket in the slave cylinder that lets air live in a pocket that makes it hard to get it out.

3. After the bubbles stopped, I pushed on the fork one last time to depress the slave and continued to hold it while I tighted the bleeder.

After that no more clutch drag or notchy shifting.

But since it happened suddenly, your slave or master might be slowly failing. Have you pulled back the boot on the slave to see if its leaking? Notice any fluid in the footwell or running down the firewall from the master?
 
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I went through something similar a few months back. I was also doing the Jacks method. My solution came somewhere between these 3 changes.

1. I didnt have a lot of mechnical experience, so i was doing all this adjusting with the car cold. Someone told me to make the adjustments after the car is warmed up so I did.

2. No matter how much i bled i still had air. in the system. I broke out my old mityvac and still pulled more air out of it. I read that there is some pocket in the slave cylinder that lets air live in a pocket that makes it hard to get it out.

3. After the bubbles stopped, I pushed on the fork one last time to depress the slave and continued to hold it while I tighted the bleeder.

After that no more clutch drag or notchy shifting.

But since it happened suddenly, your slave or master might be slowly failing. Have you pulled back the boot on the slave to see if it's leaking? Notice any fluid in the footwell or running down the firewall from the master?
Thanks for your experience!
I have removed the slave and pulled the boot. No leaks & dry inside the boot, etc.. No leaks by the master rod area or footwell either. Have traced the hard lines from the CMC to the fuse box area and down the stainless steel clutch line to the slave and have no visible leaks.
Bled the system multiple times including bleeding the slave. I'll buy a new Master and Slave but I just wish I had a leak somewhere. Diagnosing is the most frustrating part and roll in no good OEM replacements for the CMC kind of frustrating. Nevertheless I'll figure something out!
 
I appreciate this too. Funny I found this slave bleeding thread and procedure 2 days ago. I did this exact procedure Wednesday a few times and it did not improve it at all.

At this point I.m thinking I'll get a slave from Extreme PSI. Where I am stuck (and I've read and researched alot) is what unit to go with to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder. Anyone have any first hand experience & success with a comprable OEM replacement unit for the Clutch Master Cylinder? Thank you!
 
Where I am stuck (and I've read and researched alot) is what unit to go with to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder. Anyone have any first hand experience & success with a comprable OEM replacement unit for the Clutch Master Cylinder? Thank you!

I posed that question on this thread earlier today.


Its a discussion we had about that same topic last year. Im hoping some of the people who purchased aftermarket brands could come back and tell us how its worked out for them. So far only one person has commented with an update, but the Luk brand has been working well for him so far. I think i had heard that someone else had been using Exedy for a good while. But id wait a little while and see if any other people comment before pulling the trigger on something if you can. Is not expensive or anything, but just more of the hassle of having to replace it and bleed again if its not reliable.
 
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I posed that question on this thread earlier today.


Its a discussion we had about that same topic last year. Im hoping some of the people who purchased aftermarket brands could come back and tell us how its worked out for them. So far only one person has commented with an update, but the Luk brand has been working well for him so far. I think i had heard that someone else had been using Exedy for a good while. But id wait a little while and see if any other people comment before pulling the trigger on something if you can. Is not expensive or anything, but just more of the hassle of having to replace it and bleed again if its not reliable.
Awesome, great idea to gather some experiencea
I posed that question on this thread earlier today.


It's a discussion we had about that same topic last year. Im hoping some of the people who purchased aftermarket brands could come back and tell us how its worked out for them. So far only one person has commented with an update, but the Luk brand has been working well for him so far. I think i had heard that someone else had been using Exedy for a good while. But id wait a little while and see if any other people comment before pulling the trigger on something if you can. Is not expensive or anything, but just more of the hassle of having to replace it and bleed again if it's not reliable.
Awesome, a good idea to see if others have feedback. I'll add my experience once I figure out which way I go - thanks!
 
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