Resolved 2G AWD Fuel sending unit to feed line AN fitting

[red_devil]

A dreaded fuel sending unit fitting question

well I was trying to remove my fuel sending unit hose to install my STM tank to rail kit. And man is this thing tight. Sprayed it for a day with blaster, I used line wrenches and made sure not to bend the line and brake it. Well the damn thing is so tight that the line twisted. I removed the whole thing and thought about drying it off and adding heat but it's so twisted now that it will reduce flow.

I've seen people install a AN fittings inside the unit and was wondering what to use and how?

Or could I cut the line and weld a AN fitting on the pipe?

 

[RedVengeAPX]

I always jb welded the connector back in just for added retention and sealing. It's worked well the 3 or 4 times that I've done it.

PS - I hate those connectors.


Thanks Paul, I have thought about JB weld I am just not sure how long its going to hold up ie, how many years before that wears down. I have never JB welded anything before so I'm not to sure.

 

[Soular]

Hello horizontalkev,

So to reply to an old post but I am in need of help with my sending unit mod and I don't want to go the welded option. Did you use the 1G parts list to get the parts you needed? Also what did you use again for the underside... the the post above you said you figured out. Can you share how you made this all work?

man thanks

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Not sure if this is 100% okay, but it seems fairly snug

 

[boostdawd]

Drill a hole in the hanger for both the wiring and the fuel feed. They sell these fittings u can use to avoid the welded option.

 

[Soular]

Dang that was quick!! Will this work for a 1997 GSX as there is not much space there...
Also my fuel line is stock so can I get a combination of adapters that will allow me to go from the sending unit to the stock rubber line
that connects to the hard line under the car?

Again thanks so much for the reply! Gonna order this Now!

Drill a hole in the hanger for both the wiring and the fuel feed. They sell these fittings u can use to avoid the welded option.

 

[boostdawd]

Yea. The purpose of having an AN fitting is to run a bigger fuel line like 6AN or 8AN. Are u saying your going to keep your stock feed line?

You can use a combination of fuel submersible hose to connect the pump to the bulkhead and use clamps to hold it in place.

 

[Murdertalon]

I had to get really creative to make an -8an 45* bulk head work on a 2g. I can explain what I did.

1. cut off main line coming out of the hanger with a dremel.
2. Use a stepped drill bit (christmas tree bit) in a drill press and open it up to work with the -8an 45 bulk head (go really slow dont overshoot on size make it even too small at first)
3. cut nylon washers to exact sizes or find exact size fitting ones and notch the outside if you need to to clear the rounded part where the electrical connector goes through.
4. sandwich the bulkhead between a top and bottom nylon washer with a nut holding the bulkhead in place (make it tight) this is tricky and I had to use channel lock pliers and a 21mm on the top of the fitting
5. This is tricky the pump wont work with a barbed fitting on a 2g, so what I did was cut a piece of regular size stock fuel line to fit over the nozzle on the fuel pump, this may take some tries to get exact, once that makes a good seal (putting the pump together with the screw and metal bracket that holds in place on bottom now take the stock o ring and put it on the top of your fuel line on the nozzle. When you push the fuel pump into place it will stretch that o-ring tight around the outside of the tapered -8an fitting and the nozzle of the fuel pump will be inside of the -8an fitting.
You could optionally also add another fuel line over the whole thing but it would need to be like a piece of 1" or something really large, no one had anything locally to try.
6. On the top side coming off the fuel pump you can use another 45* -8an to barbed fitting or since I couldnt get one locally I used a 90* -an8 fitting to a threaded hose attachment.
7. While your at it might as well change out the fuel line for slightly larger line and get a new lower threaded line to -6an female to attach to hard line under car.

Tips: I had to find some "pipe dope" rated for fuel use at ACE locally so my an connections would stop leaking. Ace sells a non hardening fuel rated white paste thread sealant or pipe dope that is rated to 3000 psi.
Tips: You are going to have to leak test everything and I might take my fuel pump apart again and add black rtv between the under (inside tank) nylon washer and hanger.
Tips: do not use teflon tape on an fittings.
Tips: the 2g has no room to install the pump lower, so unless you plan on using a sideways fuel pump figure out how to mount it exactly at stock height.
Tips: I might add black rtv and a lock washer to the udner side of the bulk head.

Parts:
-8an 45* bulkhead
Nut for the bulkhead
Nylon washers 2, modify with dremel or whatever you have to
-8an female to threaded hose attachment
-6an female to threaded hose attachment
ACE hardware non hardening pipe dope
Fuel line I used standard size to make the seal on the fuel pump nozzle to o ring and larger from tank to hard line.

 

[Murdertalon]

Thought I would give an update to how this went.. It developed a small seeping so I took it apart and added a neoprene washer. That held for 3 or 4 days and then it started seeping again. Fuel isn't something you want to play: the leaking or not game. So I took it to a local custom fabrication shop and they are welding an an-8 fitting onto the top of the hanger.

The main reason I couldn't get my fitting to seal with a nylon washer (commonly used) is because the underside where the nut crushes the nylon to the metal on the hanger has an uneven surface and the top of the hanger is spot welded here. What a pain.

Fuel vapor can ignite from spark or heat or whatever it feels like igniting from. I'm going to go with weld on bulk head is the only thing you should consider reliably safe long term on these hangers.

Please use caution when working on these tanks or lines because you access the fuel tank from inside the car this is a potentially dangerous endeavor. Keep a fire extinguisher on hand and be safe.