2G 2g 6 bolt project issues

[RatFink1096]

Hey guys I'm new to this forum thing as this is the first I've joined or posted on. So here's the situation. I bought a 95' awd tsi. I bought it in pieces and not running but gentleman i bought it from swore it ran and the engine and trans were good. It was for a resonable price so i bought it. He didnt have much background on the vehicle so after purchasing the vehicle and piecing the engine together i ran across some things.

1. It has a 6 bolt motor swap.
2. It has a relay wired into the fuel pump along with other wiring modifications.
So i got the intake bolted up exhaust etc. Put battery in it and tried to start it and it cranked but very slowly, and after messing with some more wiring we were able to get fuel pressure and spark. And it would pop out the intake when we would try to start it. Then the battery went dead, or so we thought, so we let it charge overnight and tried again but the starter would only click, once. So i figured the starter had its last day and bought a new one. And its doing the same thing...got 12 volts to the starter and seems like im getting 6 to the starter signal wire. Im new to dsm but have experience with cars. My main reason for posting is cause im trying to trace back what mods they may have done and what to look for. I dont know if they had an alarm system in the past or what. Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[91talonts1]

The relay wired into the fuel pump you're talking about is probably where someone has done a fuel pump rewire. A common modification to get more volts to the pump.

For the intake backfire, check your mechanical timing, and if the swap is using a 1g CAS check that it's timed properly and set it to the middle of it's adjustment range until you can get the car to idle and set it properly. Also check to make sure the firing order is correct on your spark plug wires. If you google Magnus 1g in a 2g you'll find a PDF file that is a detailed how to on the swap. I suggest downloading it and reading it step by step so you can check the previous owners work and make sure he did everything correctly. There are a few small steps that can be overlooked that are crucial to the injector and spark orders being correct.

For the clicking and no start. Assuming your battery is fully charged and the cables have good connection. You might start by checking the clutch switch if it's a 5spd or the park neutral switch on an auto. There is also a starter relay beneath the radio behind the dash. Mine was crapping out and would randomly click instead of cranking like you described. I followed a tutorial on this site to bypass it.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Cas sensor is probably 180 out. Make sure that's set properly along with mechanical timing.

The other thing is to flip the plug wires. It all depends on what cas was used on the build. Research 6bolt in a 2g for all the answers. It's been talked about hundreds of times on here bro. I'll help you start with this.
http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf
There's some good info here as well.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/6boltswap.htm

 

[DsmDanielson]

Yeah I bought my car recently and had to fix some things on the 6 bolt swap.

As for the CAS, make sure the wires are facing down. That misfire your getting is because the wires need to be switched around.

What kind of ECU do you have?

My car is a 97 and I had an 95 EPROM that was configured to run 4123. You have a 95, so u probably have an EPROM ECU, but 6 bolts (90-92.5) and (97-99) 7 bolts use he same style CAS while 95 and 96 CAS signal is inverted relative to the later.

Make sure the CAS is on right (wires facing down towards ground) and change plug order to 3214. However, most will say you should rewire the pins at the ecu but Instead of messing with the wiring at the ecu I just switched my plug order to 3214, instead of 4123. In other words, just reverse the wires to your coilpack. That will fix the misfire on startup.

Now you will get another misfire from time to time while running the car, and it will make your car sound like a STI but run like a civic. Buy a 5k potentiometer from radioshack and do the "pot mod" to fix that issue. Lastly, if the wires are swapped wrong, you'll either misfire on startup or it will just click. Swap wires to 3214 on the coil pack and then get back to me.

Good luck!

 

[RatFink1096]

Sorry for the delayed response. Heres whats happening, there's a lot so bare with me.

Okay, got the car to run, was coolant temp sensor, the CAS won't go upside down cause the way it bolts up. Drove the car home 30 miles with no boost controller, waste gate was hooked directly to UIC piping so it was opening at like 8psi. Got it home and parked it cause I've come to notice other issues.

For one, when i turned the boost up a tad just to see how it acted before i parked it and it would build boost (12-14psi) then hit a brick wall and cut out for a sec. So that leads me to believe i have a boost leak and I also probably need new injectors, but i don't think it would hit fuel cut that low in boost. So I'm going to build a boost leak tester and check that.

In the mean time i noticed the turbo had some in and out play, and that it was an ebay brand 16g turbo, just my luck. So i need a new turbo. Might as well upgrade to a 35r or hx35 or w.e they are this summer.

As the days passed i would go out daily or every other day to make sure it started okay and everything since its 20° out and wanted to make sure there wasn't any shorts or drains on battery but then one day it cranked 3-4 times and quit. Now i have a BRAND NEW starter, volts on battery which is in the trunk were like 11.9 or something. But have yet to check ground resistance and what not and gotta see how many volts I'm getting to starter, again. And also see what the alternator is doing.

Now how do i know what kind of ECU i have?
What CAS is better and how do i tell what my firing order is and make sure everything's okay?

I'm going to be hooking up an OBDII reader to it as i dont have DSMLink. But theoretically even with a "wanky turbo" and stock injectors and ECU it should run decently and do not have to worry about damaging anything.

Will more than likely be doing a minor budgeted overhaul this spring (change water pump, timing belt, balance shaft delete kit, all new fluids, plugs, wires, saturn alternator swap, etc.) but i don't wanna get into that stuff till i know whats going on.

The goal of my project it to make a 450-500 hp street car. So I'd like to skip upgrade steps if possible

 

[RatFink1096]

Okay idk what kind of cas im using but when i start it up it seems to run fine, but whenever i go to drive it it seems to fall on its face and sputting and spit inbetween 2-3k rpms then itd build boost and rev up to 5-6 k before falling out again, only took it around the block few times trying to get everything squared away, and it seemed like the tps wasnt doing anything as it wasnt makin a dif when i took it off but when id wiggle it, it would seem to get a connection then would surge, couldnt figure out what rpms it was surging cause the lower radiator hose blew in my face. So i had to tend to some minor burns but idk how this 6 bolt swap was done so idk what it has done to it and dont know what to look for

Tomorrow im going to check the resistance of the tps and cas sensor and see whats going on, im going to take pictures tomorrow, along with a short video ill post on youtube. I know it can be many things, especially being i bought the car not running and taken apart for $800.00 so i know its gunna need stuff, idles for days, revs up fine, but under load it sputters...and kills me

 

[91talonts1]

Is your CAS timed properly? If you take it off you will see one tab of the rotor has a line on it that will line up with a mark on the body. It must be installed in that manner while the crank and cams are at TDC.
The spitting and popping could be a boost leak but also probably has something to do with your TPS. It must be adjusted so the TPS volts read .63v with the throttle closed.

 

[RatFink1096]

How do you check the volts on the TPS? And yes i put the car to TDC, everything lined up, took CAS off, had a sot on rotor and line on housing, it lined up put it back on head, put it to center, blam. Now as for the tps, how do i test it? Also i heard of the knock sensors causing issues? It only sputters and pops and cuts out in between 2-3k rpms, after that it seems 100 times better and when your at a red light sometimes itll rev fine, others it wont rev past 2-3k then starts sputtering ...doinf a double check on the boost leak...who knew dsms were such a pain in the arse

 

[RatFink1096]

Tried to drive the car the .5 miles to the garage but it wouldnt make it up this hill, when i approached the hill normally and as soon as i started to hit the incline it started to bowmg out, almost as if it was running out of gas or someone just cut all electrical power.

So the car stalled, was able to get it somewhat level and started up fine, idled fine as soon as i went to go again, sputters and wanted to kill itself, but i can rev it up in neutral all day.

It does have a CEL on but cant drive it to auto parts store and my friend wont let me use his in spite...some friend right?

But heres what im think it could be, any input?

Fuel pump/ fuel pressure
Injectors
CAS
TPS
Throttle body
Boost leaks
Alternator
MAF
Plugs

So i did the unmentionable and sold my daily driver so i could have some cash to throw at this project.

So where should i look first as far as investing this money properly so i dont waste it on not needed upgrades...dsm link is on the top of the list

 

[RatFink1096]

Checked the codes, got some for maf, tps, o2, evap canister, boost selenoid, etc. Checked all vacuum lines and capped them off properly, and seems to run better. Idle is till a bit high (sometimes itll idle at 1,100-sometimes 1,500). Runs pretty well out of boost, once i seem to get boost around 8-10lbs it doesnt cut out like it used to but seems to be lacking power, and when i raise boost to lile 12+ it seems to pull then start to cut nd get choppy, pretty sure my alternator is toast since its only putting out like 12.5-12.9 volts and my car died, so im going to fix that, charge up the battery and see if its any better. Checked for boost leaks, found one at jpipe, fixed it, sure theres more, will post when done.