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2g 3" GM MAF Translator install

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69_luv

15+ Year Contributor
522
9
Nov 3, 2003
Jacksonville, Florida
I searched the threads and couldn't find anything on this so I am going to ask.

On my GM MAF translator there is a harness that plugs into the 3" GM MAF, and the other harness that plugs into the stock MAF plug. Then there is a white wire and a purple wire.

The white wire is the tach signal wire, that plugs into the ECU, is there any shorter place to plug it in?

Second is where does the purple wire go? Is it used on 2g? I read the instructions over and over and couldn't find where it goes, but it mentions it as a TRIGGER wire.

Thanks
 
the rpm can be tapped by the intake manifold, #1 cylinder. i just did mine off the ecu however.

unless your running nitrous, water, propane, etc injection, just leave the other wire alone.
 
I will leave it off, and run the white wire up to the ECU and see what happens. I can see why people want the AFC and all, but this thing only has one wire to tap. How much easier does it get?
 
Originally posted by dsmturboawd
you need a safc to fine tune anyways. the translator will get the car to "run" with bigger injectors, but a safc is definately needed.

Weird, I got my 95 to idle perfectly with 720s, without the use of a safc.

Brad
 
Originally posted by dsmturboawd
you need a safc to fine tune anyways. the translator will get the car to "run" with bigger injectors, but a safc is definately needed.

I run 20 psi and get 17 deg timing advance in each gear on pump 92 with the maft alone.

An afc is not needed.
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
I run 20 psi and get 17 deg timing advance in each gear on pump 92 with the maft alone.

An afc is not needed.

You're right it's not needed. However, if you do have one, it makes tuning a hell of alot easier

You don't do anything with the purple wire unless you are running N20, like previously mentioned, the white wire-If you look at the engine, right behind it is a plug that looks EXACTLY like your 2G MAS plug, the white wire on the pug is Power Transistor pin 4. that's where you wire the MAFT white wire to.
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
I run 20 psi and get 17 deg timing advance in each gear on pump 92 with the maft alone.

An afc is not needed.

so you don't need the translator w/ the gm maft? Or is the translator used strictly for tuning purposes and you can run the maft w/o one?
 
its not needed with the newer translators. if you have a translator that was purchased when they first came out, a safc is needed.
 
Originally posted by mach1one
so you don't need the translator w/ the gm maft? Or is the translator used strictly for tuning purposes and you can run the maft w/o one?

maft = maf translator

The translator must be used with the gm maf.
 
Originally posted by quarter
its not needed with the newer translators. if you have a translator that was purchased when they first came out, a safc is needed.

I never used an afc with any of the 'original' mafts and I have been using it for over a year.

The upgrade for older mafts -> v2.08 is $30 I believe.
 
thanks again, that pretty much clears the rest of my questions. I felt like I read a lot of threads on the 2g mas + safc vs maft but never saw a straight answer to that question.
 
Screw that. Chris and I have said many many MANY times that you don't need a SAFC, but certain people continue to incessantly insist that you do.

You don't. My car and Chris's car prove it. End of story.
 
I have a SAFC, and I'm putting in a translator.

I am going to throw out the SAFC. Garbage, as far as I am concerned, the dog can eat it. Yuck... I spit at SAFC.
Oh wait, its really cool looking and I took 2 days to solder it in. I'm keeping it. :)

That settles it I NEED A SAFC. You dont but >I< do. :p
 
Just to let everyone know, I found both the power transistor Pin 4, and the ECU Pin 58. I was having difficult because I was getting a flashing green LED(loss of RPM) signal and thought I was plugging into the wrong wires. I wasn't, it ended up being my fuel pump was the wrong one.

Anyway I have been running my MAFT setup, love it. I will have more info later this week when my datalogging cable gets here. As of right now in my "Butt dyno/tunning" The car idles great, drives awsome, no smoke, and fuel milage is decent. This doesn't mean much so when I actually have numbers from the datalogging it will be interesting to see how well the MAFT tunes by itself.

Just to add to the argument, someone would buy the SAFC and yeah it looks real cool and all, but I had to hook up one wire, plug in another and mount the MAFT with two screws that was it. ONE WIRE!! Whats even funnier is that the one wire you have to splice, not cut, just tap into is under the hood, not two feet from where you would mount the MAFT.
 
Seriously though, I have the SAFC so I am keeping it of course.
But... if I want to run 1% leaner or richer at 4500rpm on a hot or cool day during my race, I can. What are then increments on a Translator?
(I have yet to receive my translator so have not got the instruction or anything)

If the increments of adjustment (on a translator) are more "ballpark" than the SAFC, this may be fine for a daily driver, but the convenience and ease of adjustability from my seat throughout the race session day is worth it. Yes a HUGE PIA to install. I told a freind if he buys one I am NOT helping him. :)

I am NOT arguing for or against, but this is the info, make your own decision.

Scott
 
Originally posted by talon97
Seriously though, I have the SAFC so I am keeping it of course.
But... if I want to run 1% leaner or richer at 4500rpm on a hot or cool day during my race, I can. What are then increments on a Translator?
(I have yet to receive my translator so have not got the instruction or anything)

If the increments of adjustment (on a translator) are more "ballpark" than the SAFC, this may be fine for a daily driver, but the convenience and ease of adjustability from my seat throughout the race session day is worth it. Yes a HUGE PIA to install. I told a freind if he buys one I am NOT helping him. :)

I am NOT arguing for or against, but this is the info, make your own decision.

Scott

I totally agree. I currently have both. I use the translator to get me in the "ballpark", then I use the SAFC to get things as close as I can for my current setup.

the maft goes in 5% increments. Neither the maft, or SAFC is a pain to install. :)
 
I looked around at SAFC's and decided I really don't need that much tuning now, or probably ever. The translator setup would suffice and probably be cheaper for me. I could get everything for around 230-250 depending on how cheaply I found a maf.

I found new safc II on ebay for 270 + shipping, but I"d still a 2G mas and such.

Plus being able to switch over to a blow-through setup is a nice bonus, even though I probably won't want to fool w/ it.
 
Venting to the atmosphere rocks, I love the sound, and having the MAF so close to the throttle body really helps with accuracy, and flow. Renduntant argument, you are right though the SAFC is more accurate, and if you where running at the track constantly then I would say go with the piggy back system. Most of us are using our DSMs as daily drivers, with trips to the track though.

By the way I haven't got the new 2.08v yet, but when I do I was told that compeltely negates the reason for a SAFC. Don't know, when I get it I will let you know...
 
I'm still running version 1.37 and its still pretty decent at rough tuning in 5% increments. Around 6500 im getting 17-19 degrees of timing with a FPBig28 at 17psi with an upgraded pump. The new version will enable base settings to be saved an the 4 knobs will become 3000,4000,5500,6500 rpm. The RPM's will be tuned by 2% increments so its not as fine as an AFC but it pretty damn close.
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
It is now in 2% increments and has rpm dependent tuning points (like an afc).

True, for version 2.0....whatever it is. I don't have that yet.
 
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