22PSI to much?

[Gooberlog]

No coment...the motor is all stock. Naturaly Asspriated no NoS

 

[greyforestgst]

dont argue bang for buck.
dsms and 5.0's beat everything else. i thought this was generally accepted?

 

[Phoenix_RsX]

Originally posted by WarpathDSM
I was just wondering if 22 psi was to high to run. My main concern is my head gasket. My mods are up to date in my profile but it's a big 16 ported and clipped incase your to lazy to go look. thanks

On a B16G, yes. the b 16G even if it is ported and clipped is only made to hold 18 max......even if it does run at 22, I'm pretty damn sure you aren't going to get much more.....if any more power out of it....and you'll be killing the turbo way before it's time.....you want 22 psi? convert to a 20G or get a turbo that can hold it with out killing itself, the 16 wasn't made for that man.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by UNFORGIVEN GSX
Please don't start this Domestic vs. Import bullsh*t.


Both cars have their pluses and minuses. Have you ever driven an LS1 or a V-8? I must admit, the torque is utterly intoxicating. I dislike having to wait for power with a turbo inline four and it only gets worse with the bigger turbos. However, when the turbo kicks in it is nice.


I still believe that it is not that smart to run high boost all the time without upgrading your head bolts to ARP studs. This will make sure that the head doesn't start floating as the boost pressure ADDS to the pressure of the explosions in the cylinders on the head.

As always, correct fuel management is essential to saving your engine.

Rob

Both cars have their pluses and minuses. Have you ever driven an LS1 or a V-8?

Actually I had a supercharged 4.6 with a 99 head swap that made 402 HP to the wheels. Have you driven a well prepped dsm with a large turbo an supporting mods?

I dislike having to wait for power with a turbo inline four and it only gets worse with the bigger turbos.

my 50 spools 22 psi by 3600 and pulls like a fright train to red line. many with ball bearing turbos spool even quick with larger compressor wheels.

I still believe that it is not that smart to run high boost all the time without upgrading your head bolts to ARP studs. This will make sure that the head doesn't start floating as the boost pressure ADDS to the pressure of the explosions in the cylinders on the head.

Unreal explained how head lifting and head gaskest failure has zero to do with boost pressure i know a guy that ran his l3r at 30 psi on the stock studs. what you *beleive is not fact* example i think the sky is purple.

 

[Phoenix_RsX]

Originally posted by jdmawd
Unreal explained how head lifting and head gaskest failure has zero to do with boost pressure i know a guy that ran his l3r at 30 psi on the stock studs. what you *beleive is not fact* example i think the sky is purple.

hahahahahahahahaha :laugh:

 

[Unreal]

If your affraid of running more boost, or can't afford ARPs and a headgasket (less than $200) then don't turn the boost up. Be happy being slow, and go pick on hondas (stock ones, since modded ones may be an issue).

 

[UNFORGIVEN GSX]

Originally posted by Phoenix_RsX


hahahahahahahahaha :laugh:

Don't be a dick.



Anyway, why do people get ARP headstuds then? Is it because they are lazy and don't want to tune for low knock. I think not.


Rob


BTW The sky is purple.......................sometimes.

 

[Unreal]

When you want to make 400+hp ARP head studs begin to be a good idea. Stock headstud will work if tuning is dead on, but ARPs give you alittle error.

Once again, boost has nothing to do with sealing of a head/stretching of studs. Cylinder pressure does. You can run 160psi of boost and not have a problem if the car is only making 60hp at the time.

 

[UNFORGIVEN GSX]

Alright cool.


Rob

 

[twenty5psi]

i was running around 24 lbs of boost on a stock HG with a big16g and my piston cracked way before the head could lift or the HG blew..if its tuned right then you should not have to worry about it all to much but if your going to want to make around 400 or more hp then its going to cost WAY more than 200 dollars for that HG and arp studs..you can make that much HP without those but maintaining the longevity of your engine and internals will be another issue..im not saying that buying a HG and studs will make your engine run forever but it will help..

 

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by Phoenix_RsX


On a B16G, yes. the b 16G even if it is ported and clipped is only made to hold 18 max......even if it does run at 22, I'm pretty damn sure you aren't going to get much more.....if any more power out of it....and you'll be killing the turbo way before it's time.....you want 22 psi? convert to a 20G or get a turbo that can hold it with out killing itself, the 16 wasn't made for that man.

That is not true! There are alot of people that run 20 to 23psi on a Big 16g. Every car is different, so some may be able to run that much boost and some may not be able to run that much boost. Look at the times list over at DSMTALK.com in the racing forums under times with upgraded turbos and you will see. I run 21psi on my FP ported Big28 with no problems at all. You could probably run more boost than 18psi when you upgrade to a fmic. I ran 18psi on my Big28 on the stock smic with no problems. A fmic makes a big difference. 18psi is nothing on a Big 16g. Your turbo has plenty left in it.

 

[umiami80]

I think 22PSI is too much to run on pump gas for a 16G, maybe a larger turbo that is more efficient, but not a 16G, 18PSI should be the limit.

 

[SPEEDY]

The only true way to find out for sure is to do some logging and see how much timing is being pulled while running 22psi. As I said earlier every car is different, so you may or may not be able to run that much boost. I do know that I can safely run 21psi on my Big28 with pump gas. The FP Big28 is very comparable to the Big 16g, and 18psi is nothing compared to 21psi on my FP Big28. I do agree that it is pushing the limits of efficiency but as long as your timing looks fine then you should be fine.

 

[umiami80]

Well a BIG 16G has more topend then a BIG T-28, but the T-28 has better spoolup and mide range, but all out the Big 16G moves more air so that is probably why.

 

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by umiami80
Well a BIG 16G has more topend then a BIG T-28, but the T-28 has better spoolup and mide range, but all out the Big 16G moves more air so that is probably why.

It doesn't have that much more topend if any over the Big28. Look at some of the trap speeds on the times list over at DSMTALK.com in the racing forums for upgraded turbos and compare, and remember the Big28 has only been out for a little over a year now as compared to the Big 16g that has been out for years. Big 16g= 550cfms, Big28= 550cfms. Anyways... back to the topic just do some logging to see if you can indeed run that much boost. Logging and egt's are the only way to know for sure.