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To much air?!?!?!?

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GSXEklispe98

Probationary Member
16
0
Oct 18, 2003
Paola, Kansas
I have my car in the shop because it wont idle, it starts up and dies. Well they found that my injectors were missing the o-rings on them and also that my head had acouple bent valves. Well they put my stock head back on and it would idle and compressor surge very little. Well now they put the o-rings on the injectors and now it wont stay idling again. It dies right after you start it again. They said that they think its getting to much air in the engine and thats making it die. My mods are : evo 16g, small fmic, rc 550's, aeromotive regutalor, warblo 190, greddy hard pipes and type rs bov, pacesetter header (yes i know its shitty), bj intake manifold, 1g throttle body, injen intake, apexi n1 exhaust.
So I guess my question is, are they right and is it to much air or are they just screwing with me and telling me that?
 
What are you using to control those 550 injectors? I do not see anything in your post or mods that would lead me to believe you have a SAFC, DSMLink or the like. Even with the safc it is a serious pita to tune our cars with out getting an eprom to correct for the larger injectors.
 
please tell me with those mods you have some way to fuel/air tune.

cuz that will be your problem, get an safc or some like fuel tuner. then you can even it all out.

if you do have a safc, then check the BISS screw. i don't know how bad that little thing could screw things up, but i know my idled like ass BIG time before i adjusted it.
 
My car has the same problem, but it did it while it was stock. It would stay started, then die immediately. However, if I give her gas, and then drive her for a minute, she idles fine and stays started and all that good stuff. I don't know what the problem is. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Keep in mind when you look at my list of mods, she did this while she was stock. Thx. :talon:
 
actually, my 93 NA talon did something similar. would start, not idle well, then die. UNLESS i gave it gas. then she'd be ok.

my mechanic told me it was whatever holds the car at higher rpm's at cold starts. the tps, or something.

it didn't matter, the car got rear ended, i got insurance money and sold it to a friend of mine. no he gets to deal with it.

i still say it's because he has no fuel tuning though. but it could be some random stock parts whats gone POS.
 
sorry i forget to add that i have a afc and a palm logger. I bought a new mas just incase and they said it was fine. They are trying to find a ecu to see if thats it now. I just dont know whats going on with it. Also I have given it gas and it would stay running but it would idle around 2000 rpms. The biss screw is tightened all the way down. The fpr is set at 43 psi idle too.
 
Your BISS screw shouldn't be all the way down. Mine is at least 2 turns out. Just the way mine came. Screwing it in all the way is probobly why its messing up. I beleive if you screw it all the way in it lowers the idle and that is why your car won't stay running.
 
its a local shop here in town. They are asking 2 of there dsm "specialists" to come work on it because they are more of a honda and acura shop. I kindof know both the specialists and one has helped his friend in modding his gsx and its running high 11's. So I would think that he would know whats going on, but i guess that both of them cant figure it out. They are saying that the bj intake manifold is flowing to much air into the engine and thats why its doing this. But I would think that they could adjust for it with the afc, correct?
 
WTF Must be one of those magical hoda problems they have. Flowing to much air. It's pretty hard to get TOO much air into there just by changing manifolds. The TB will restrict how much air flows into the manifold and the big thing will be your cam and how long it keeps the valves open. I'm going to say you just need to adjust or replace the BISS screw. When I put my Venom intake manifold on it idled the same as before and from dyno results it's supose to be the highest flowing one for DSM's. That was a while ago though so I'm sure there are homemade ones and whatnot out there that outflow it.
 
Thats what had me fooled. I didnt think that just changing the tb and the manifold would make it have TO much air. The only thing i could THINK of doing is get some hks cams and maybe that would stop it? Any ideas about that?
Also this winter I am rebuilding a 6bolt and was wondering if it would be smarter to do a 2g head or a 1g head. i have a ported 2g head with bad valves that i was gonna rebuild as well. So would it be easier to buy a 1g or rebuild the 2g and which would be better? Sorry for getting off-topic here, just wanted some opinions.
 
ok, no. don't go out and spend 800 bucks or more on HKS cams just to fix an idle problem, thats rediculous. try to mess with the BISS, try maybe new injectors?

maybe you're overrunning those 550's? but for poop's sake, don't go spending money where you don't need it. all a cam is going to do is let EVEN MORE air into the cumbustion chamber.

start with the cheaper stuff and work your way up, and honestly, it sounds like these "dsm guys" don't know squat. if i were you, i'd just do the work myself.
 
All I am going to say it get your car out of there as fast as possible. If the diagnoses they gave you is "to much air" then they are just stupid. Take it to someone who actually knows what they are doing and not using the excuse, "we are a Honda shop." An internal combustion engine is the same as it has been for decades and if they cant figure it out them run far away.
 
well at first it was compressor surging and they thought it was the o-rings on the injectors because it was idling, altho it was rough. So they put the o-rings on them and thats when it started dieing at idle. but also before them it was leaking gas from the fuel rail.
 
Have you tested the ECU or check for any codes? This would be a first step for me.
Mine was just the oppisite. I would idle but wouldn't rev. Come to find out, that 1/2 of my ECU was dead. If you can believe that.
 
Umm, what about these bents valves, did they replace them and how long have u been running with them bent. And as far as i'm concerned how could u run your car without the o-rings on the injectors, they would be leaking immensily all over your intake manifold and smell gas let alone the piss poor gas mileage to say the least.
 
GSXEklispe98 said:
well at first it was compressor surging and they thought it was the o-rings on the injectors because it was idling, altho it was rough.

Compressor surge has nothing to do with injectors at all.

Again get the car out of there they are VERY VERY STUPID.

Once you get it out of there pressure test the intake and make sure it holds at least 20 PSI for a good 30 seconds.

CORRECTLY adjust the idle with the BISS screw.

If it doesnt idle after those then come back and we will go from there.
 
I havent driven it with the bent valves on the head or the o-rings. I replaced the stock head with a ported one and tried to start the car and thats when It did all this, so I had it towed to the shop and thats when they told me that the valves were bent and that i was missing o-rings.
I will go up there tomorrow and mess around with the biss screw and see if i can get it running correctly while its there and have them do a pressure test also on it.
 
We did the test and it stayed at 20 psi for about 25 seconds. The biss screw is correctly adjusted and now we are thinking that its the tb. So we are looking into that now and replacing it with a stock 2g one for now. Hopefully this is it and it will fix this problem. They only thing I could think of is the isc motor is bad or the tps sensor isnt set properly. What do you guys think, could this be the problem?
 
no its not, but it hasnt been for about a year. It all started when i replaced the manifold with the pacesetter header (which i am putting the manifold back on) and put the bj intake manifold on. It ran fine with my type s vented. Should I go back and get a type s again? Could the 40mm over the 38mm be not letting air in and therefor it not idling correctly? Or should I just loosen it up all the way
 
staticbrainwash said:
actually, my 93 NA talon did something similar. would start, not idle well, then die. UNLESS i gave it gas. then she'd be ok.

my mechanic told me it was whatever holds the car at higher rpm's at cold starts. the tps, or something.
.

The fast idle air valve? That thing?
 
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