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20g turbo

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ok thats it screw everything, im just gona save up go with the green.

why not, i will definetly run 9's uhh i mean 11's w/that :)
 
I had a BR20g Tdo5H turbine wheel 7cm housing...with external on the manifold last year. I ran 11.59 @ 120mph on it...@20psi. I had fuel problems with the car for the whole year...so it could have been much faster. I ran this time (and a bunch of 11.60's) the last night the track was open last fall. on pumpgas 93octane it went 12.3 @ 111mph


IMHO i wound't get involved with any tubo that has not proven itself in multiple! really fast cars. I only trust FP turbo's, BR's 20g, the small 16g, and standard T3T4 garrets.
 
My friend with a 99 GSX ran a 12.3@115 at 21psi, with 104 Octane. The turbo and engine still has alot of room. This was a rough tune, and a full weight AWD. His setup is good for probably mid to low 11's if tuned right and running higher boost. Oh by the way he messed up the launch on that run too.
 
so what is the green easily capable of? alos do i even need a turbo this bid? will i ever really get to the point of needing a monster like this?

what do you guys think about the ete32 and ete31? are these capable of easy 11's?
 
What i meant by that is i hope that DSM guys aren't throwing big turbo's and lots of other expensive parts on thier cars and not run the parts up to thier limit. The only advantage of larger turbo is more max power. If your goal is to run an 11.5-11.9 then putting anything larger than a 20g is a waste of money, spoolup, and response since your not utilizing the larger turbo's advantage.

If you have the other modifications that would go hand in hand with a 20g turbo...the car should be deep into the 11's with average driving ability. A bigger turbo at this point wouldn't show much, if any performance advantage over a 20g

another point I would make is: why would you spend additional $ on a custom turbo such as a mutt to only want 11's out of it when a standard plain jane "cheap" 20g will perform just as well.
 
my point on this subject is that your worried about forking out the extra couple hundred bucks for the Green and External Wastegate but you wanna run 11s in yer FWD?? have you put aside $$ for a new transmission, your differential and the gears your gonna break?
 
He brings up a great point....running 11's in a fwd will require traction mods more than power mods. [/QUOTE]

You are forgetting planets aligning just right in that equation :).

Running 11's in a FWD is possible, but why would anyone would want to put themselves in through that torture when it can be done MUCH easier with AWD?
 
They are absolutely right on the traction. I just dumped about 3.5k on my turbo setup and now I am saving for the tranny/suspension build up. A FWD is a tough battle to hit 11's, but it is doable. You will not get there cheap. It seems you have two choices:
1st) lower your goals and save money.
2nd) spend the money and hit your goal of 11's in a FWD.

You will not be able to design your setup over night. Start with the basic mods first. As time goes by you will keep reading the forums and learn so much. Step One Buy a boost gauge if you don't have it. You must learn to walk before you run. When the time comes that you have all the supporting mods in place and you have the money saved up to buy your turbo, there may be some new, amazing, track proven beast on the market that may put all current turbos to shame.
 
Originally posted by TURBOSPYDER


I have the same turbo. Are you happy with your HRC 20G? Your car seems still rich. I know we can run up to 30psi on this turbo. Have you tried it yet?


I haven't tried 30psi Yet.... I don't have internal's. Only ARP studs.

And I've been strongly encouraged to stay around 24psi on race gas.

And not to go to about 20psi on pump gas.

But Like someone posted I am still running rich on my car so I know it will make more HP.

Also I'd like to add I did know of another MN-DSMR that ran the same set up I did but with a tubular Header and ran 28psi on race gas on his car when ever he drove it......

But blew his motor up when he tried boosting 32psi.

He didn't have internals only ARP's.

anyways. - I've been told our block can only handle 450hp.

That's at the fly - so my guess is 382whp is about as high as one should go on stock internals. and 363whp is close enough for me.

I don't have the money to build the motor yet so for me I'm done till I do more work.

-brian
ps: I am very happy with my turbo and the HP I'm making - I know it's not as good as some but I'm having fun and enjoying it. And that's what counts.
 
ok so you all are basically recomending the 20g, but the thing this is, i dont know why you guys think it is less expensive? i mean the ete31(mutt) is only 1K$ and sdoes not require any intallation kit or wastegate!! and comes ported!! the 20g seems more expensive, and needs an install kit.

when dooes the 20g spool at again?
 
Mine used to spool at 3500 but since I did my prothane motormounts

for some reason It isn't spooling till 4200rpms. I can't figure it out.
I/C piping is perfect not leaks, checked the intake and hose's nothing wrong there.....

Can't figure it out - No shaft play on turbo or anything.

-brian
 
alright all, ive been doing more resaearch, now i have some questions on the br20g. when i buy this does it come with an install kit. because i hear ppl talking about how the br 20g can be gotten for only like 1000$, but is that with the internal wastegate, the install kit? help!
 
I asked Hahn Race Craft if I can trade the standard 20G to the 20G-H. Here is what he emailed me:


"Should you do it? Only if you are interested in going faster than mid to low
11's in the 1/4 mile. The unit you have will do that; the bigger units are
intended for those who would not be satisfied with such performance.

Is our product the best flowing? Yes. While all 20G turbos share the same
compressor section, only ours uses such a high flowing turbine section. "



Then again, many DSM have their own opinion. Of course, as you already know, the other turbo's, GREEN, RED, BR20G, Franks, MUTTS need no introduction.
 
Did this person at Hahn specificly name any customers cars that have gone faster than low 11's that he implies thier Super20g will deliver?

Id call back and ask for all the cars that have gone 10's on that turbo. Or even 11.5's. I bet you get a VERY VERY VERY short list...
 
OK, then name any cars that have gone 10's on S20G. Personally, I am not aware of ANY. So until they can find one, their claim on being better power making turbo than a regular 20g is complete BS.

How about low 11's? I do not even recall anyone going that fast it.

There are around a dozen (if not more) cars who have done it on a BR20G's and other "generic" 20G's.
 
Originally posted by BrnOutKing

anyways. - I've been told our block can only handle 450hp.

That's at the fly - so my guess is 382whp is about as high as one should go on stock internals. and 363whp is close enough for me.


How many rocks of crack were these people smoking when they told you this? Our BLOCK can only handle 450hp? What happens at 450hp does the crank fly out and then the pistons break through to the water jackets? Um yeah right. So I'm guessing you meant rods? Pistons?

I know one car that put down 470hp to the wheels on stock internals (6 bolt 2G pistons). This was with a FP red. After adding a few more parts he got a little knock on a run and bent a rod. 470whp is a LOT more than 450hp ;).
Crap Dre makes 410-420 (dynoed numerous times) hp to the wheels on PUMP GAS with a STOCK 99 bottom end. He has one of the first greens that FP made.
You do not need forged rods or pistons to run a 20G or green.
 
I think he meant the entire shortblock assembly, Nick.

FWIW, to the best of my knowledge nobody has ever had a block failure, unless someone kicked a rod out the back or something or similar. Block failures are for Honda guys.
 
I dont know what you people have against HR super 20g's .... My car was just dyno'd at 378 hp ... mind you I had to put in a hell of alot of $ into upgrading internals before maximizing the output of the super 20g but i must say that i absolutely love the HR super 20g .... I agree that the lag time may be a little longer but once it kicks in my car absolutely fly's .... maybe im just getting this kind of power becaues my entire engine was rebuilt by Magnus and I have a PMS Fuel Management System ..... In any case i love the Super 20g .... might not be as good as others but i love it ......

just my 2 cents ....
 
Have you guys heard anything about darkside racing's 20g? I am looking into getting their kit (20g ported and clipped, tial 35mm wastegate, and 2g manifold ported with wastegate flange welded on). Do you think I would need to clip the 20g with a tial 35mm wastegate? If so, how much? I have boost creep now and I do not want it again. Also what spring should I get for the wastegate? I am looking at running 20psi on 92 octane and 26 on race gas.

My current mods are listed in my sig. I will also install 660's, walbro 255 high pressure pump, afpr, safc, datalogger, a new bov, and ic. Would a mkiv supra ic flow good enough for a 20g?
 
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