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2 Questions about a 2G

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VPrime

15+ Year Contributor
802
3
Feb 5, 2006
Lonon, ON, Canada
Hi, Just wondering what these could be on my 95 Talon TSI AWD)(stock)?

Problem one:
Sometimes the car will not start.
At first I thought it was just on really cold days (live in Canada after all ;) ) or really wet/snowy... But that was proved wrong today as the car would not start and it was pretty warm.
The car cranks it will just not turn over
-I got a new Optima Red Top battery a month ago so it is not the battery.
-The plug wires are fairly new
-I can hear the fuel pump (OEM) when i crank the engine
-and I replaced the spark plugs today.
The car would still not start.

Now after today my dad told me to check the fuses (which i forgot to do).
the fuses looked fine. But we continued our search for a problem. One fuse (in engine bay fuse box) was called "engine" so we changed that with another and the car started right up!
than to make sure it was only the fuse we put the old one back in........... again it started right up!?
So I don't know if it could be this fuse or what?

Also one thing I forgot to mention is that every time the car will not start I usually wait a day and it starts the next..... but a check engine light comes on. I just cleared it as I couldn't get it tested (and when i tried once at school the scanner tool could find my car...)
I will try and get this code read at a local car shop soon though!

Any ways I'm just wondering what the whole car not starting thing could be? (Oh yeah i left the old fuse in all day and it has been working... going to buy a new fuse for it ASAP)


problem 2:

This one isn't as big (i don't think) but when I go reverse I sometimes hear the car sqeeking. This sound also happens when the car is off and is just rolling back on a small hill.
What could this be?:confused:
 
your car needs a few things to start.... fuel, spark, compression.... make sure it's got all of those components first. Maybe check your coil packs and your P transistor unit. Do you know when the last time the fuel filter was changed?

you need to get that code read. and check your base timing after you get it started and up to operating temp.

it could even be something like your crank sensor....
 
okay... well some new news to add...
Car starte up this morning but when i set my turbo timer for it to warm up it just died and would not start up again!
I even tried the stupid fuse thing that worked yesterday.

ARRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrghhhhhhhhhhh
 
Ill get the CEL checked as soon as i can get the car moving...
And to check the coil pack where are the 3 terminals that the diagram on that link says?
also your second link doesnt work.

Sorry im a total noob with cars :(
 
new update.. and SORRY for the tripple posts!
but I went out and tested the resistance of my coils is 0! i tested both of the connections and the ohm meter jumps to 0...
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like that.

soo i probably need a new coil pack right?
like every thing that breaks i'd rather replace with aftermarket /some thing better... what is a decent system to replace it with? (or how much is an oem replacement?)
 
are you sure you checked the coil packs correctly?

MSD is always good for after market ignition. Honestly, unless its an all out drag car i would just stick with stock coils. you can get em on ebay for 20 to 50 bucks. or check the classifieds maybe.
 
yeah ill probably go for stock.....
but am i sure i checked them correctly.... like... 50% sure yess ;)
 
okay found a coilpack at a local parts store but they say that there are 2 kinds, round and flat.....
Which one will work for the 2G tsi?
Thanks!
 
Please could some one help me on which coilpack i need to buy? Ireally want to get this fixed soon!
Thanks.

And sorry for bumping my thread!
 
round and flat?? hmm.... if you tell them what year your car is and you have the 4g63 turbo they should give you the right packs.
i attached a picture of the coils that you need. there are 2 "packs" and they each run 2 cylinders. So each coil pack has 2 wires coming off of it. They kinda jammed them under you intake manifold, just follow the spark plug wires that go to them, pull out your old coils and take them down to the auto parts store and tell them to get your shit! :thumb:
I couldnt find a better pic of any coil packs sorry. good luck.
 

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yeah i know where the coils are... but thats 2?! so the prices they quoted me would be double!?
i though all 4 cylinders were run off the same "pack"
and thanks for all the help :)
 
the price should be for both coil packs. ask them to pull up a picture on their computer so you can look at the part. or just ask to see the part.
ok. i attached a picture of the coils (both of them) its the same picture as above (im sure you noticed that...) I think you should just pull your old ones off and take them to the store and tell them to give you your shit! :thumb: let me know if you need more help or something! you can pm me or email.... or i'll check back later tonight. I'm going to go drink some beer real quick tho.... :rocks:
 

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hmm okay with my testing of the coils i just tested the little connector thing not where the wires go... when i tried testing the wires i got no reading on my meter at all (i think the ends of the ohm meter were not long enough to make a connection)

any ways its going to cost me 167ish canadian for new coil pack.... but i got thinking(searching) what if it isn't.... could it be the transistors thing, as thats what a lot of search results came up with.

I'm getting zero spark in all 4 cylinders.. so does that point more towards transistor or coil?
also as i said before 0ohms when testing the connector thing on the coil pack...

I just want to be sure before i spend all this money

Thanks again!
 
here is what Dr. Chilton recomends for testing your coil:
1-a. measure the resistance between terminals 3 and 2 (coils at the no. 1 and no. 4 cylinder sides) of the ignition coil, and between terminals 3 and 1 (coils at the no. 2 and no. 3 sides).
b. compare reading to the desired primary coil resistance of 0.70 - 0.86 ohms.

2 measure the coil secondary resistance as follows:
a. measure the resistance between the high-voltage terminals for no.1 and no.4 cylinders and between the no.2 and no.3 cylinders.
b. compare the measured resistance to the desired secondary coil resistance of 11.3 - 15.3 kilo-ohms.

if the readings are not within the specified value, replace the ignition coil.

i attached 2 pics so you can see exactly what they are talking about. hope this helps as far as testing your coils.

Now, it could also be your transistor unit. Test your coils and let me know if those are good or not....if your coils are good, then i would look into a transistor unit. either that or maybe your CAS could be out.... that is what triggers the ignition. just a thought. good luck again. :thumb:

oh, did you ever get that CEL codde read?
 

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i did the first test and it read 0 ohms. the second test i could not get a reading at all.

and as for the CEL, no as i couldnt get the car on to take it to a local shop to get it read as soon as i get it running im going to get it read.
Any ways im supposed to pick up a new coil pack tomorrow... hopefully that is all that was wrong.
 
okay thanks again for all the help!
Ill report again sometime tomorrow with the new coil pack...
I hope it starts.. i miss my car :(
 
well I went to pick up the coil pack, and was almost 200$ after tax... and it was only for the one side!

any ways before trying to install I tested my old coils one more time... this time i got the correct readings?! (on both the primary and secondary locations)

So I said.. oh well i might as well try replacing the one coil I have. But I couldn't, there was one bolt i couldn't get to so i quit....

What else could it be?
I think I'm just going to take it to a local dsm shop and see if they can fix it for me....
 
step 1: i hope you kept your receipt for that coil....take that shit back and get your money back. that is outrageous for just one coil!

then, i would try testing your transistor unit or get that CEL code read.
But really, if you quit because you couldnt get to one bolt.....take it to a shop.
good luck with everything. :thumb:
 
to get the CEL checked doesnt the car need to be on? or is it possible to check with the car off? (because I may be getting an OBDII cable soon and just hoko it up to a laptop..)
also how do i test the transistor pack? I have been searching for it all yesterday and today.

Thanks.

and yeah ill be returning the coil soon :D
 
you just need to have the ignition on, so no the engine does not need to be running to check the CEL. If you can drive your car to an autozone, advanced auto or auto parts store (or canadian equivalent...) they will check it for you for free.

now, as far as testing your transistor....its a real PITA. you have to connect a batterie to it and shit. i dont have my manual with me right now, so im not exactly sure....
 
ever get the problem fixed? if you did let us know what did it so other people can benefit from this when doing a search. :thumb:
 
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