Atuca
Supporting Member
- 1,145
- 303
- Jan 6, 2007
-
Central Valley,
California
The car was first turned on monday night, March 29, 2010.
There were almost aboslutely no problems.
The only problems were problems that had I been given more time to complete, would not have been issues. The battery relocation ended short, at the passengers feet using the stock battery cables. I had already sold the bracket and tie down months before, so for the cars maiden voyage, the battery had to rest there.
The wiring/fusebox relocation I was very worried about. Once the engine was in the car, it took only a week to get it completed. The wires that need to be cut shorter are still not, but the wires the needed lengthened were done, taking wire from the plenty of extra I had. I still want to finish the wiring and with the time I have now, I will soon.
The new aeromotive AFPR and FP 255 fuel pump worked out very well. No leaks, steady fuel pressures, and unexpectedly, fuel pressure is held a few minutes after the car is turned off, the next day 20 lbs can still be read off the pressure gauge.
I hooked up DSMlink and started to set all the settings I needed for first turn on (fuel injectors are pte1000s, idle, ect) Everything seemed to work just fine.
I primed the engine for 30 seconds with the engine fuse pulled, and power went everywhere it was supposed to. Headlights worked, brakes, interior switches, all good. With the camera rolling, I went to turn it on for the first time...
All power in the car gone, no lights, nothing.
My stomach sunk into the depths of my shoes, I shot the wiring. I checked all the fuses, nothing blew. So what went wrong?
I hit up snowborder and just outa desperosity, asked if he had any ideas. He suggested I check grounds, and suddenly a gleam of hope. In the rush I was in setting up the battery, I didn't attach the grounding cable at the intake manifold, nor did I ground the second ground cable to the chassis, I only attached to the engine block.
Thinking little of it, I went ahead and grounded the battery properly, had to reset dsmlink (I am so glad v3 has the memory board, can't wait to upgrade..) and went for start attempt number 2...
ITS ALIVE!!!!!
The 2.4 G4CS was running and really thinking back, quite flawlessly. It initially idled at about 2k for about 5 mins, the lifters were very loud and ticked for about 10 mins, but after its initial start, the car has been very consistant.
My check list of things to fix include:
oil leak at the oil return line form turbo.. (FFS that is why I wanted to weld the AN fitting...) and an undetermined oil leak at the bottom/back of the engine block. Its possible it is a leak from the oil pan seal, or it could just be the oil leak from the turbo return line and it just ran back there from the wind on its first drive.
Exhaust leak at o2 housing to downpipe (I expected that.. no gasket used. However i did read that a race team somewhere on tuners claims they never use exhaust gaskets and just a clean flat mating surface is all you need. Wish I could find who they were again)
Wrap wiring up and route it through "permanent" zip tie mounts
Install intake (the coolant hoses from the water pipe had holes in them from being bent, probably by me. I had to uses rubber houses on what was left of the hard lines. No leaks, but the wide turns and bends the coolant hoses created made it impossible to install the intake pipe.
More seriously, the knock sensor reads a constant 3.2 counts of knock anytime the engine is revved over about 2300 rpm. This could be during free rev, or while driving. The knock sensor is located between the 1st and 2nd cylinders above the a/c bracket. Anyone have any ideas what could cause that, or what the problem might be? Location, wiring, or sensor? This was the same sensor that was in my 2.0 block that appeared to be working just fine before removal.
There are a dozen other things that need to be done still, but nothing more than I expected. Tuesday, the next day, I drove the eclipse 50 miles on its first trip to its new home.
The butt dyno results are in...., this thing is a torque monster
It was hard to drive without being in boost. Its first drive had alot of freeway. Since I was breaking it in on this drive, I just revved it to about 5k rpm, and than let it decel all in 3rd gear. I changed it up to 4th and 5th throughout the drive for some cooldown, but overall I was very happy.
I can't wait to put the new turbo in it, fix these issues, and really get some track time with it. I should note I moved to a county IN CALIFORNIA, without smog requirements. The possibility of a weekend drive are not out of the question, and has gotten me very happy to be back behind the wheel of a DSM.
I am on dial up internet currently and can't post all the pictures I have, but I will get them up, along with my new 2010/Season 3 GSseX videos on youtube. To find them and my past videos, you can search youtube for "GSseX". Out of respect for Difiant from years past, you gotta find the videos there yourself.
When you see the photos in my next "post build" blog, the new video will be up.
Otherwise, there were 100s of other little things I did and didn't mention, so if you got any questions or suggestions, please feel free to comment or ask, via PM even if you like. I am very grateful for dsmtuners to be here to help like it has; it turned someone who couldn't change their own oil 3 years ago into what you see today. I appreciate all the help dsmtuners has given me and can't wait to start giving back more with the knowledge I gained during this build!
I'll spare this blog of the sappy individual "thank yous" (for now
) but to everyone who helped, THANK YOU!!
BOOST ON!
There were almost aboslutely no problems.
The only problems were problems that had I been given more time to complete, would not have been issues. The battery relocation ended short, at the passengers feet using the stock battery cables. I had already sold the bracket and tie down months before, so for the cars maiden voyage, the battery had to rest there.
The wiring/fusebox relocation I was very worried about. Once the engine was in the car, it took only a week to get it completed. The wires that need to be cut shorter are still not, but the wires the needed lengthened were done, taking wire from the plenty of extra I had. I still want to finish the wiring and with the time I have now, I will soon.
The new aeromotive AFPR and FP 255 fuel pump worked out very well. No leaks, steady fuel pressures, and unexpectedly, fuel pressure is held a few minutes after the car is turned off, the next day 20 lbs can still be read off the pressure gauge.
I hooked up DSMlink and started to set all the settings I needed for first turn on (fuel injectors are pte1000s, idle, ect) Everything seemed to work just fine.
I primed the engine for 30 seconds with the engine fuse pulled, and power went everywhere it was supposed to. Headlights worked, brakes, interior switches, all good. With the camera rolling, I went to turn it on for the first time...
All power in the car gone, no lights, nothing.
My stomach sunk into the depths of my shoes, I shot the wiring. I checked all the fuses, nothing blew. So what went wrong?
I hit up snowborder and just outa desperosity, asked if he had any ideas. He suggested I check grounds, and suddenly a gleam of hope. In the rush I was in setting up the battery, I didn't attach the grounding cable at the intake manifold, nor did I ground the second ground cable to the chassis, I only attached to the engine block.
Thinking little of it, I went ahead and grounded the battery properly, had to reset dsmlink (I am so glad v3 has the memory board, can't wait to upgrade..) and went for start attempt number 2...
ITS ALIVE!!!!!
The 2.4 G4CS was running and really thinking back, quite flawlessly. It initially idled at about 2k for about 5 mins, the lifters were very loud and ticked for about 10 mins, but after its initial start, the car has been very consistant.
My check list of things to fix include:
oil leak at the oil return line form turbo.. (FFS that is why I wanted to weld the AN fitting...) and an undetermined oil leak at the bottom/back of the engine block. Its possible it is a leak from the oil pan seal, or it could just be the oil leak from the turbo return line and it just ran back there from the wind on its first drive.
Exhaust leak at o2 housing to downpipe (I expected that.. no gasket used. However i did read that a race team somewhere on tuners claims they never use exhaust gaskets and just a clean flat mating surface is all you need. Wish I could find who they were again)
Wrap wiring up and route it through "permanent" zip tie mounts
Install intake (the coolant hoses from the water pipe had holes in them from being bent, probably by me. I had to uses rubber houses on what was left of the hard lines. No leaks, but the wide turns and bends the coolant hoses created made it impossible to install the intake pipe.
More seriously, the knock sensor reads a constant 3.2 counts of knock anytime the engine is revved over about 2300 rpm. This could be during free rev, or while driving. The knock sensor is located between the 1st and 2nd cylinders above the a/c bracket. Anyone have any ideas what could cause that, or what the problem might be? Location, wiring, or sensor? This was the same sensor that was in my 2.0 block that appeared to be working just fine before removal.
There are a dozen other things that need to be done still, but nothing more than I expected. Tuesday, the next day, I drove the eclipse 50 miles on its first trip to its new home.
The butt dyno results are in...., this thing is a torque monster
It was hard to drive without being in boost. Its first drive had alot of freeway. Since I was breaking it in on this drive, I just revved it to about 5k rpm, and than let it decel all in 3rd gear. I changed it up to 4th and 5th throughout the drive for some cooldown, but overall I was very happy.
I can't wait to put the new turbo in it, fix these issues, and really get some track time with it. I should note I moved to a county IN CALIFORNIA, without smog requirements. The possibility of a weekend drive are not out of the question, and has gotten me very happy to be back behind the wheel of a DSM.
I am on dial up internet currently and can't post all the pictures I have, but I will get them up, along with my new 2010/Season 3 GSseX videos on youtube. To find them and my past videos, you can search youtube for "GSseX". Out of respect for Difiant from years past, you gotta find the videos there yourself.
When you see the photos in my next "post build" blog, the new video will be up.
Otherwise, there were 100s of other little things I did and didn't mention, so if you got any questions or suggestions, please feel free to comment or ask, via PM even if you like. I am very grateful for dsmtuners to be here to help like it has; it turned someone who couldn't change their own oil 3 years ago into what you see today. I appreciate all the help dsmtuners has given me and can't wait to start giving back more with the knowledge I gained during this build!
I'll spare this blog of the sappy individual "thank yous" (for now
) but to everyone who helped, THANK YOU!!BOOST ON!
