2.3L Stroker Setup help

[DSMerTSi]

Well, I was going to post this in the stroker tech, but I don't have enough posts I think... anyway..


I got my hands on a 4g64 short block and now I want to build a stroker....

From my understanding I need
1 4g64 crank
1 Set of 6 bolt rods (its a 6 bolt 4g64)
1 Set of Stroker pistons

Now do I need the 4g64 Main and Rod Bearings or 4g63 bearings?

I know that I should use my current head with new gaskets... I am going to reuse my timing belt componets because they have less then 500 miles on them and keep everything else the same.

Bolt ons that are going on it are a Evo III 16g, 660s, SAFC II, FMIC with shoutroute piping, 3" VRS Exhaust, Walbro 255, afpr, turboxs Manual Boost Controller, Greddy Type RS BOV RECirculated(SP?), And if I can find a translator, I have a GM 3" MAF that I would like to put on it.

Stuff I need to buy yet
WasteGate to fix my boost creep
DSMlink

I am wanting to do the stroker for better performance out of boost and just for the extra displacement. I want to get a larger turbo down the road but just can't afford it now.

I have read that a 2.3l Will out flow a 16g after about 5500rpms. Is this true?
What are the other draw backs of this setup?

My goal is 350 AWHP
Its that cool maroon/black cherry color like shep drives.. thats good for at least a 100hp right?
I don't have a quarter mile time because most of my fun is stop light to stop light. I might go to the track for like a forum meet or something, but the only reason I would go to the shootout is to watch.. At this time I have no desire to make my car a "Track Slut"

Any info would be appreciated Thanks everyone

Joe
1990 Eagle Talon TSi

 

[JayRolla]

If you plan on going stroker I would buy a way larger turbo than the 16g. Since you are building a 4g64 wideblock you are actually making a 2.4L not a 2.3L. 4g63 block with a 4g64 crank makes the 2.3L. If only 350whp is your goal stay with the 2.0.

My buddy had a 2.3 with a 16g and first gear was crazy fast. The rest the turbo was just blown out. Felt like crap. The 16g will not flow enough for the turbo. You need at least a 50trim or 20g.

Ohh yea if you get the new maf-t setup you dont need the SAFC, you can tune with the Maf-t. Not reccomended with 650's or larger but can be done.

 

[rst95eclipse]

You'll use the 4g64 block with the 4g63 head. Everything in the block will be 4g64 and everything in the head will be 4g63. You'll definately want a bigger turbo. If all you want out of the car is 350awhp, you should just stick with a 4g63 longblock, even in stock form it's able to do so.

 

[DSMerTSi]

Well, i was planning on putting the crank in a 2.0L motor to make the 2.3L stroker. The 16g will have to suffice until Tax time or later.

You know, I don't even have to really put this motor in my car until I get a bigger turbo if I go with the 4g64 block with with a 4g63 head. I can just leave the 4g63 thats in it alone and build a complete new motor. boost it until it blows.. it isn't my DD.

But I want to do it right so when it does go in, I want it to awsome...

 

[projecTSI]

If all you want is 350awhp, you should just stick with the 2.0. Throw in some 264/272 or straight 272 cams, and that should be good for that number with your other mods. The stroker will be a lot more work and a lot more complicated than you need for that goal.

 

[DSMerTSi]

Alright, lets re-pharse this. I am building a 2.3L stroker motor. ( This is not open to negotiation!)

From my understanding I need
1 4g64 crank
1 Set of 6 bolt rods (its a 6 bolt 4g64)
1 Set of Stroker pistons

Am I Correct??!?!?


Now do I need the 4g64 Main and Rod Bearings or 4g63 bearings?

When the motor is done, I will be purchasing a Larger turbo Like a 60 trim or a gt35r or whatever else I stumble upon.

On my current 2.0L motor, I have a lower compression on the cyclinder closest to the timing side (its at 130) I am not sure if its a gasket problem or a ring problem, but I want to build a new motor.

The reason I posted the the desired HP and the 1/4 times is because thats the first thing everyone asks. What kind of goal are you setting... Well my current goal on the 2.0 L is 350. I don't know what to expect out of the stroker... Nor do I really care. If the motor takes 3 years to build, well in three years I will have a fast car.

Sorry my rant is over, I am just looking for information that I could not find using the search engine.

Thanks Everyone
Joe

 

[TSIMonsteR]

Some of your questions have already been answered. THIS WILL BE a 2.4L stroker, not a 2.3 since you are using the 4g64 block. You need 4g64 everything for the block and 4g63 everything for the head.

 

[Cs4g63]

I have a stupid question to ask. Can you use the 7 bolt 4g64 in a 6 bolt car?

 

[DSMerTSi]

Some of your questions have already been answered. THIS WILL BE a 2.4L stroker, not a 2.3 since you are using the 4g64 block. You need 4g64 everything for the block and 4g63 everything for the head.

I am putting the 2.4 L Crank in my 2.0L Block

 

[syclone]

DISCLAMER: I have never done this, and have NO actual real world knowledge of this procedure, only what I have researched and read.

to build a 2.3 stroker 6 bolt you need

2.4 crankshaft (6 bolt)

2.0 rod/main bearings (some clearancing may be needed on main bearing braces)

2.0 rods (the 6 bolt 2.0 rods are said to be good to 500 hp) so you could use stock rods have them shot pined, resized magnafluxed and add ARP rod bolts. or spend 330.00 for a set of eagle 2.0 rods.

stroker pistons for a 6 bolt 2.3 they have the pin hole moved toward the top to support the extra stroke. several supporting venders sell these.
like these:http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=1128

I plan on doing this with my income tax money.

Jamie Sanders

 

[twicks69]

2.4L crank + 2.0L block, rods (1G-- stock or aftermarket) + Stroker pistons = 2.3L stroker.

If you go this route, I would suggest picking up a set of Eagle 1G rods with either Wiseco or Ross stroker pistons.

You will use 2.0L main bearings that are spec'd for your crank after you magnaflux, balance, polish and cryo or shotpeen or nitride. Do not purchase bearings prior to the machinework on your crank. You will need 6-bolt rod bearings also. I would suggest ARP main studs, and ARP head studs. The Eagle rods come with ARP rod bolts already. You will use a 2.0L head (either 1G or 2G depending on your setup and preference) with the matching thermostat assembly. You will use a 2.0L oil pump, water pump, 2.0L timigg belt, etc.

It is not a hard setup to do. I warn you though...like most performance engine builds, you get what you pay for. Quality isn't usually cheap.

My motor with ALOT of custom tricks, coatings, cryo, butcher crank, custom pistons, etc. ended up costing well over $8000, and closer to $10000 when all said and done. I replaced EVERYTHING with new quality parts, except for the block itself.

Be sure that you are going to use a professional builder that has extensive knowledge with 4G63's, and strokers. Clearancing is needed and grinding will be required to clear the block webbing and passages depending on which set of rods you use.

*****Disclaimer*****
I do have real world experience.

I have done this, and am quite happy with the motor over the last 10K miles with absolutely no problems mechanically.

 

[2point3Tsi]

You seemed like the right person to ask. It seems like with the price of machine work and parts the SBR shorblocks are close to a deal. My budget is around 8k and I have tried to figure out everything else to make it reliable. Where should I post for help with a complete build?

 

[TSIMonsteR]

I am putting the 2.4 L Crank in my 2.0L Block

my bad.

 

[DSMerTSi]

Thanks guys, now thats good information.

Thats exactly what I wanted to know.

 

[JayRolla]

You do have the 4g64 right? You should build that, they are pretty nice.