Spun bearing, time 2.3L stroker setup.

[Hakmak]

I know this subject has been beaten to hell but I can find exactly what I'm looking for. So I spun a bearing on Cylinder 2. I believe I spun the bearing because of oil starvation, was running a little low because of an oil leak but I also noticed on my aftermarket oil pressure gauge that there is no pressure at idle when the car is warm. But the funny thing is, the oil dash light doesn't come on at all. Anyway, I thought this might be a perfect time do a 2.3L upgrade. I have about 500 miles on a newly rebuild 7 bolt head. After doing a bit of research I concluded that I have to get a:

- 4g64 Crank (saw one from a 99 2.4, galant ES in the junk yard site),
- I can use my stock Rods
- Stroker pistons
- ACL bearings
-ARP main studs

What I'm confused about, do I have to do anything to the block machine wise? I've seen people say things like "I just got my block back from the machine shop with a bore .20 over". Or can I just get everything and start installing?

 

[SonySlave]

At a minimum the block should be honed to fit the new pistons and set the proper piston to wall clearance. If the block's cylinder walls aren't really scratched up then you can likely buy standard sized pistons and just get them honed in to the proper piston to wall clearance. If the walls are beat up pretty good, then would would need to buy oversized pistons (85.5mm, .020"-over, etc.) and have the block bored and honed for the new pistons.

You can use the stock rods with the forged pistons but with the price of Eagle/Scat/Manley H-Beams, I'd just upgrade. Also, if you spun a bearing, you're going to need to take the block to a machine shop regardless. Not just to have the block honed and/or bored for the new pistons, but you'll need to have it cleaned, and cleaned extremely well. Spinning a bearing will send a ton of metal shavings and pieces throughout the block, and potentially the head as well, and you need to have all of that cleaned. You also need to have the crank checked for straightness and cracks, etc and have the journals polished before the build.

Unfortunately, it isn't as easy as just bolting some new stuff in...

 

[boost97gst]

As sonyslave said. Also, you will need line hone if using arp main studs. Its not an option. I would walk in with the assumption that you WILL be boring out .020(85.5mm as slave said). Just expect that. These cars are old and with any hard miles or high miles they are out of round enough where a hone wont cut it anymore. Hot tank. Deck both surfaces or have them checked and if they're good enough then go composite headgasket. If you want MLS hg then its almost a guarantee they will both need decked to perfection.

Everything that oil touched needs to be cleaned. Ive seen a turbo put back on a car that didnt "spin" a bearing but chewed it up a bit. The turbo, we think, was the culprit and spewed those flakes right back in to the pan upon starting up and caused a rod knock again. This is still a theory but i would flush oil through the turbo just to be 100% sure. It'll be ripped in a million pieces and a good machinist will clean it properly so you shouldnt have to worry. He wont be cleaning your turbo though so i would pay extra attention to that before you slap it on and fire it up(unless you're buying a new snail, then forget what i just said haha).

I vote a manley combo rods and pistons or eagle rods mahle pistons or either rod paired with just about any name brand piston. Minus the non-hd version wiseco's. If you get them, get the hd version.

But, its your ride, your budget, you make that call bro!!

 

[Hakmak]

Thanks for that explanation. It makes plenty sense. I now see why some people sell instead of building because it gets pretty expensive. I might just look for another 2.0 block and be done with it, budget is crazy tight. Lets put it like this..." This was a bad time for my bearing to spin".

 

[Hakmak]

So I decided to go with a stock rebuild. I'll let the machine shop take care of it. My head has only about 500 miles on it, I rebuilt it a couple months ago with some BC 272 and BC springs cant wait to feel the difference with a fully built motor. Anyone else have some incite on what to look forward to?