2.3L + FP Green?

[Travi2506]

Ok guys here's the deal, I want a very street-able turbo that will actually hold its own at the track. Sounds easy right? There are a Few things I want. I want something that spools decently fast (3200-3800rpms), has a good top end, and will bolt up to the stock mani and 02 housings. With that being said, I have a 2.3L with Wiseco 8.8:1's. To date I've ran a 12.56 @ 108mph with just a 16g @ 21psi. I'd easily like to see an 11.5 with the new setup and around 450awhp, with some room for improvement down the road.

So what are My options?
FP Green?
SCM5031RLE?
SBR GT-12?
Anything else?

Thanks Guys. Also, any logs or any other informaiton would be greatly appreciated.

 

[JayRolla]

The FP turbos will not bolt up to the stock o2 housing. PTE turbos have stock housings. With a stroker I would run the pte 6152e. It flows the most and would spool OK on a stroker. If you could buy the ball bearing version that would help even more.

 

[DGajre777]

I wouldn't run a turbo as small as the FP Green on a stroker, I'd go for the red.

The FP turbos will not bolt up to the stock o2 housing.

The FP Green and FP Red do.

 

[Travi2506]

I wouldn't run a turbo as small as the FP Green on a stroker, I'd go for the red.

If you don't mind me asking, Why not the Green?

 

[Travi2506]

The FP turbos will not bolt up to the stock o2 housing. PTE turbos have stock housings. With a stroker I would run the pte 6152e. It flows the most and would spool OK on a stroker. If you could buy the ball bearing version that would help even more.

I'm not worried about what flows the most. I want a quick spool up with something that's not gonna run out of breath until after 7500rpms. Call me crazy, but I love my 16g. If only it didn't fall on its face after 5k. ha ha...

 

[daren_p]

If you don't mind me asking, Why not the Green?

I'm going to assume because its too small/doesn't flow enough for the stroker.

Now with the goals you've set as far as spool time, hp & 1/4, the green should meet them & be a very fun car to drive on the street. It all depends on what you want, the Green on a stroker is going to feel sorta like an evoIII on a 2.0L. Is this what your looking for, if it meets your other goals, or will you want more further down the road?

Personally if I had a stroker (& not fwd) I would opt for something a little larger, I find 4000-4500 rpms spool not bad at all for a street car. Now some others will think thats too laggy, while other's don't mind alot more lag then that. I do know a local that use to have the 3052 (similar flow) on his stroker & he loved it for a mainly street driven car.

 

[Travi2506]

I'm going to assume because its too small/doesn't flow enough for the stroker.

Now with the goals you've set as far as spool time, hp & 1/4, the green should meet them & be a very fun car to drive on the street. It all depends on what you want, the Green on a stroker is going to feel sorta like an evoIII on a 2.0L.

I do know a local that use to have the 3052 (similar flow) on his stroker & he loved it for a mainly street driven car.

I loved my 16g on my 2.0L. That's almost exactly what I'm looking for. I don't mind a little more lag but I think the Green should be fine. I wanted the 3052 but i refuse to spend $625 for their re-circulated o2 housing.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

BEP s258 FTW!

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Bullseye Power S258 Extended Tip : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99

 

[daren_p]

I loved my 16g on my 2.0L. That's almost exactly what I'm looking for. I don't mind a little more lag but I think the Green should be fine. I wanted the 3052 but i refuse to spend $625 for their re-circulated o2 housing.

Of course with supporting mods, tune, etc, this will vary but on the stroker, I'd expect to see 20psi ~3500rpm mark on a 3rd gear pull.

I have the 3052 & I too think its a great street turbo, even on a stock 2.0L (20 psi @ 4000 rpms). It actually starts to build boost abit under 3000rpms so the 3000rpm range isn't completely useless, like some may think.


Their O2 housings are expensive for the FP30 series of turbo's but they can be had cheeper then that. Do you need the 3" version? The 2.5" is more then enough for the kind of power levels your looking for & the recirculated version of it is much cheeper. Also another option if you do want a 3" (or even the 2.5"), is get the non recirculated version with the dump tube, then take it to your local custom exhaust shop & have them add in a piece to recirculate the dump. This is what I had done, I had them recirculate it right before the bend in the down pipe. I actually like this better then the recirculated version as recirculating the WG further downstream doesn't create turbulances right after the turbine wheel like a recirculated housing can & it also allows more fan/rad clearance. I don't believe their recirculated version will clear a stock rad/fan setup (while mine did). Mine also has lots of room currently with my Koyo rad & SPAL fan.

If I was looking for a bolt-on street/strip turbo for a stroker, I would look directly at the FP3565HTA (actually maybe even for a 2.0L), but thats just me

 

[DougR]

Personally, Bud. I would start calling the Turbo Manufactures directly.

I know FP would work hand in hand with you to get Exactly what you want.
Now I have no personal experience with the FP green, But based on Info from Tuners, Talk and various other DSM related forums. On your stroker, the Green would give you that 16G feel. Top end performance??? Well that comes down to the VE of your engine package mainly.

It mainly depends on how mutch you want to spend on the "turbo" your looking for... A off the shelf setup will be far cheaper then Creating your own Custom Turbo, But custom maybe where you need to look...
There are ALOT of Bandwagon guys here at Tuners. Take My advice and CALL them directly, Which ever brand you go with. Spend the Time Talking to the R&D guys and you will NOT be dissapointed.

 

[jrohner]

What about the bolt-on bullseye turbos? They're like 700 without a wastegate and a little over 800 with an internal. They look to be really nice, stainless steel turbine housing even.

 

[Travi2506]

Their O2 housings are expensive for the FP30 series of turbo's but they can be had cheeper then that. Do you need the 3" version? The 2.5" is more then enough for the kind of power levels your looking for & the recirculated version of it is much cheeper. Also another option if you do want a 3" (or even the 2.5"), is get the non recirculated version with the dump tube, then take it to your local custom exhaust shop & have them add in a piece to recirculate the dump. This is what I had done, I had them recirculate it right before the bend in the down pipe. I actually like this better then the recirculated version as recirculating the WG further downstream doesn't create turbulances right after the turbine wheel like a recirculated housing can & it also allows more fan/rad clearance. I don't believe their recirculated version will clear a stock rad/fan setup (while mine did). Mine also has lots of room currently with my Koyo rad & SPAL fan.

I definitely don't need the 3" but I wanted it re-circulated and I didn't see the option for the 2.5" on the site. Also, having just spent ~$600 on a 38mm and re-circ'd o2 housing has me kind of shying away from spending another $350 on a v-band 44mm, not to mention the o2 housing. Honestly, I think what it's going to come down to is the money that I have available when I'm ready for it. I tried asking FP about the HTA wheel in a Green and they said that it wasn't an option, although they do make a HTA Green for the Scoobs? I think when the time comes I'll call them directly, tell them exactly what I want and what my goals are and see what they have to say. I'm trying to re-search and learn all that I can before I decide so thank you for all the information and opinions, and please keep them coming.

 

[Travi2506]

BEP s258 FTW!

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Bullseye Power S258 Extended Tip : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99

No offense, but why? I've seen them but how do they compare to the FP's?

 

[redtsi252]

Well the BEP S258 has spool jus as fast as ball bearing...and if it takes a shit it will cost $185 for a basic rebuild ....as for a BB it cost a Bare minumum of $850 for new center section....

I Also think the BEP extended tips are an awsome choice....

you may also want to consider a Holset hx35.....should spool 20-25psi by 3000-3500 rpms,

just my 2 cents

 

[daren_p]

Well the BEP S258 has spool jus as fast as ball bearing...and if it takes a shit it will cost $185 for a basic rebuild ....as for a BB it cost a Bare minumum of $850 for new center section....

I Also think the BEP extended tips are an awsome choice....

you may also want to consider a Holset hx35.....should spool 20-25psi by 3000-3500 rpms,

just my 2 cents

Last time I checked, if you did need a rebuild (BB should be more durable then a std thrust bearning, unless of course you did something you werent supposed too) you can do a "trade in". So basically swap out your old CHRA for a complete new one for around $450.

I've never had any first hand experience with the BW ET turbo's such as the 256, 258, etc but I can say I have seen some impressive results posted on them. They have been seeming to make some nice power numbers & rather quick spool for a std thrust bearing.

For the O2 housings, like lots of other FP products, they don't list everything on their site. I know what you mean about buying parts & then having them become useless (I too bought a Tial 38 for what I thought was going to be my route only to have to buy a Tial 44 before the origional WG even was installed ) Do as much searching around as you can, but yes, the good vendors can be extremely helpful when making a turbo decision (but yes there are some other manufacturers that are completely useless when it comes to this, as well). I have talked to Robert at FP multiple times about my setup & yes he is an extremely busy guy but he has always been extremely helpful & gone above & beyond with his responses to me (which is why I will continue to support them in the future)

 

[Slippi84]

Well the BEP S258 has spool jus as fast as ball bearing...and if it takes a shit it will cost $185 for a basic rebuild ....as for a BB it cost a Bare minumum of $850 for new center section....

I Also think the BEP extended tips are an awsome choice....

you may also want to consider a Holset hx35.....should spool 20-25psi by 3000-3500 rpms,just my 2 cents

This guy is on the right track but with a stoker I would go even more specific and a little bigger. You my friend are a perfect canidate for the hx40 with the bep .55ar housing. It will bolt up to the stock o2 housing and manifold and has made 650whp already. The even better kicker is it hit's full boost around 4200 on a 2.0l! So on a stroker yoru looking at spool in the same range as your taling about and plenty of top end. CHeck out the Holset part 3 thread that's where the bulk of the info you want about the hx40 with bolt on houisng is. Look up a member badman21 too he's the guy that made 653whp with a hx40 and .55ar housing.