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#2&3 cylinders has no power

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SPD CAT

15+ Year Contributor
30
0
Dec 18, 2005
macedonia, Ohio
:beatentodeath:

I bought this car bone stock from the original owner, getting ready to do a serious overhaul on it this winter. recently the #2 and 3 cylinders shut down on me one night while sitting idle in a parking lot for about 6-7 minutes, i limped the car home and parked it, the next morning i go to start it and it runs on all 4 cylinders at idle and in gear for about 20 miles and then it shuts off the #2 and 3 cylinders again. Since then it hasn't run on all 4 cylinders. I changed the plugs, wires and the coil pack that supply power to the #2 and 3 cylinders. i gotta take it back to the local parts store to read the code again but i tested the ignition power transistor and it has power for all four cylinders, so far i've:

* changed plugs (new NGK plugs)
* new wires
* 1 new coil pack
* tested the ignition power transistor
* thrown a couple tools around
* doubted my decision on calling this an easy fix:nono: BIG MISTAKE!!!
* almost had a heart attack when i seen the price of the stock replacement coild and
realized there is no aftermarket coil for my car:notgood:

i did search on this but noticed that guys are getting power but no fuel, i'm getting neither.
my haynes manual says to test the ignition power transistor with a 1.5 volt battery and tester, has anyone tried this also? i've searched around and seen that the CAS may cause misfire but i also noticed that CAS was used to describe the crank and the cam in the same thread, which one is it, i'm assuming they were talking about the cam angle sensor, anyway, i'm not quite at the point for getting my 6 bolt in but, i'd like to fix this asap and get it back on the road, any help whatso ever would greatly be appreciated, thanks in advance
 
How have you verified that you have no spark or fuel to cylinders 2 and 3? The only common denominator for both of these problems is the ECU, unless you have multiple faults that are only affecting these two cylinders, which I doubt. However, I'm hesitant to blame the ECU without proof of my first question. Are you getting any check engine lights?
 
after bringing the car back in from test runs i can immediately pull the spark plugs and hold them in my hand without any worries about them being too hot to hold, they aren't cold, their a warm from the heat of the motor but no where near hot, and i smelled them and checked them for excess fuel on the plugs and nothing, no fuel odor and no excess fuel, i'm thinking of switching the coil packs around to see what happens but not sure if it'd be worth the trouble, i already lost one of my fuel rail spacers somewhere in the engine compartment when removing the coil pack assembly. i assumed that the fuel injectors would still work if the spark plug wasn't getting power because it smells like a lot of raw fuel is coming from the exhaust and the compartment. i was going to run a fuel system cleaner like sea foam or chevron in there to see what it would do, i tried it before on N/A motors and it worked fine, but i don't know if it's reccomended on turbos:confused: what am i doing wrong or not doing?
 
yes i have one, i'm going to the parts store to get it read now. does this sound like an expensive fix?
 
ok justgot back the first one is 0300 and the other is 0500 (which is my speedometer sensor A, i'm guessing i gotta get that at the dealership, cause it's all out of whack). so that's all i was able to get from my obd scan.
 
one thing you might want to check so you can rule it out is the valve train. Pop off the valve cover and check that nothing is broken. You could also get a friend to turn it over while you watch with the wires off just to see if you have anything stuck or broken.
 
those cylinders should still be able to get power even if something is stuck shouldn't they? the only thing i can really check their is the CAS right? there isn't really a need to pull the cover off just yet right?
 
my talon did the same thing The #3 cylinder was dead it turned out that i had a hole on one of the exhaust valves.
 
im having the same problem as you are. its a wire coming from ecu is what im told you can jumper over the wires from one side of your pack to the other side and it should fire fine. im tring to work on mine and having no luck because of the rain... coil pack order 4-1-2-3 i think
so on my car 1-4 and putting out spark like crazy while 2-3 i can stick the wire in my mouth and nothing happens.. i have also read the its pin 55 from the ecu that controls coil 2-3
 
never heard of this wire jumping thing, i'm getting ready to get a new module and see what that does, keep me posted on the wire jumping thing and let me know how it works, i'm still having the same problem, this little problem is definately frustrating, i can't wait till i fix it!!!
 
lilantwan, before you go doing that wire jump procedure, i don't know if that'd be a good idea, i'm not sure if you're having the same problem i am, i tried switching my coil packs and had the same problems, switch your coil packs and see if you get spark on #2&3 cause i put my coil packs in one at a time and tested them and #2&3 still didn't fire, even when i switched them with the #1&4 coil. I'm not sure exactly how putting the #2&3 coil wires on the #1&4 coil pack wires will work if you do that cause if that were the case then there'd be just one coil pack needed, that might be too much of a load on the coil pack if that is the way you were talking about hooking that up. i've been to 3 different part stores for this module, each one that i ordered came in different than the one on the car, the dealer wants too much for it, but i just went to Advanced Auto Parts to get one, i got it cheaper than the other places around here. I'm not sure of the correct term for it but i'm calling it the ignition module, my Haynes manual calls it the Ignition Power Transistor, I'm betting that's what the problem is, i tried to test it my self, and took it to a local parts store to get tested but they couldn't test, I'm hoping its the problem cause i have a 6 bolt motor being built as we speak but i need the current motor to hold up for me until the 6 bolt is done. I'll let you guys know what it does when i get it on there, thanks for all the input and help!:thumb:
 
:sneaky: I FIXED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was the ignition module! To make this a lot easier to find, if you have an advanced auto parts near by, the part number is 115131 and the brand is GP Sorensen i'm sure any other parts place can cross the number to a different brand, oh and the price for it is currently $104.44 I just wanted to let you guys know! Thanks for all your help and input:thumb:
 
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