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1st timer 6 bolt rebuild job, need feedback on parts list

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Siral3x

15+ Year Contributor
299
2
Mar 2, 2006
Ludington, Michigan
ok,
So finally I can spend a couple $Gss for a monster 4g63 buildup.
I want to go a little wild here since my GSX is becoming my track car, and my 'new' EVO 3will be the daily beat horse :) (I decided that is not worth selling the EVO 3 since I paid 3k for paperwork and shipping from UK) but anyway :
I got a 84k mile 6 bolt out of a talon tsi. The engine was running with no problems , and my friend sold it to me for $200 and got the car crushed. He was boosting 15psi on a stock 14b.

My parts list for the bottom end:
-Machine shop work with all the goodies, and block bored 20 over;
-Pauter X-beam rods or Oliver I beams?? not decided, would like some imput;
-Arias 6 bolt pistons 8.8:1 CR, I don't want 9.0:1 or nothing lower then 8.5:1 CR;
-new Eagle 6 bolt forged steel crank;
-SBR steel main caps with ARP studs ;
-OEM front cover;
-Clevite main and rod bearing set;
-new OEM water pump,
-new 1g timming kit;
-SBR oil pan;
-Balance Shaft eliminator kit;
-new crank pulley..
This is my list for the bottom end as of now;
Any other suggestions?

Cyl head parts list:
-hot tanked and pressure tested 1g head;
-Crower 64414 cams;
-SI Dual Springs with Manley TI retainers, and Manley steam locks;
-new revised lifters;
-Manley 1 mm valve kit;
-SI bronze valve guides;
-new OEM rockers;
-new OEM Stem seals;
-Cosmetic HG;
-hks cam gears;
Any other suggestions?

Turbo setup:
-A cheapy SBR Bastard 20G?? to start with....you can't go wrong for that price :)

Anyway that's it for now! The Brains, fuel support, brakes,clutch etc..I didn't figured it out yet.I'm going to worry abt that after the engine is built.
Most of the parts will be bought from SBR, I think they are OK, and hope they'll give me a nice discount once I decide to buy the parts:)
Basicaly I want to build a HI Revv aplication keeping the 2.0L displacement, and hoping for a conservative 500whp to start with.
Any suggestions and imput will be gratelly apreciated!
thx guys,
:dsm:
 
unless something is wrong with your oem crank, i wouldnt replace it with the eagle one. If you have the money to spend and want to put it on that then by all means go ahead, but the 6-bolt cranks are pretty strong from the factory, and the money could be better spent elsewhere.
 
Looks good all for the crank.Shep runs the stock crank,and he's over 1000hp.I recommend sbr,I've built 2 engines using their parts.
 
Shep runs an Eagle crank, but yeah the stock one is fine for pretty much whatever you want to do. So are the stock main caps. If you need any reinforcing in the bottom end, just get an aftermarket main girdle.

Make sure that you get somebody with a lot of experience with 4g63's to do your machine work. Make sure they have a torque plate and they know what the surface of the head and block need to be for the Cometic head gasket. Also make sure you get the mains line honed, a lot of people skip that step, but it's very important.

I don't think the bastard 20g is worth the price, for $80 more you could get a SCM61.

You can't go wrong with Oliver or Pauter rods, they've both been taken over 1000whp in 4G63's
 
yeah man, take that $700 from the eagle crank put it with the money that you were going to buy the bastard 20g with and buy a FP green or something
 
Wow thats a nice list but why all those high doller parts?? What are you doing for a trany. A nice trany will run you 2k. These cars are not cheep to build and you need to save money were you can because you will need it later for little things for that 15 year old car. The motor is just part of the car its whats around it will let the motor do its job.
 
I have a very recent mag article that was talking about shep when he hit the 7's he sure does still use a oem mitsu crank. That article went on and on about how amazing that was to do on a stock crank!
 
Im pretty much wrapping up my 6bolt swap and build up, and ( unfortunantly )
I dont have as much money to get those top dollar parts as you listed but for some more insite what I did was-

cryotreated my rods, pistons, bearings, crank, cams, flywheel-
( for extra strength since I didnt have money to by the top of the line stuff
I just reinforced the stock stuff )

And im putting 2g pistons, JE rings, fidanza 8lbs flywheel,
brand new oem valve train for the head,a brand new heads on it, mls gasket set, it has new bearings
new water pump, new oil pump, new belts, the head has been slightly shaved,
a 91 eprom ecu, ( im probably going to get a key driver )
And im saving up to get a Act 2600 as of now... ( not a def. clutch desicision though )
but I will get that cryod also... The exhaust will be full 3in all the way ported everything,
and upgraded bov, intake hard pipes ( eventually front mount soon ) knN filter, hacked mass, and eventually a 2g mass...

Just what I did, dont think it will help you though.

( I agree with them on the crank though Id just start saving for upgraded clutch and tranny and tuning devices, just get that crank cryoed like I did and it will be good for well over 400whp. )
 
I already got a rebuilt tranny, and brand new Xfer case, and 3 incher exhaust all the way.
Ohh...and my 90 has a stock rear LSD.
Hmm...well I saved money in the last 2 years for a nice setup.
I got a crappy clutch....so I need to replace that asap.
 
Not saying that they are shody, but do a little more research on the Cleavites. During my rebuild I was told to stay away from them, mainly the main bearings, something about oil holes not lining up. Other options were Mitsu, ACL and Calico which are apparently coated ACL's from what I understand. The Pauter rods might be a little over kill also, I would look into some Eagles or Crowers.
 
Siral3x said:
ok,
So finally I can spend a couple $Gss for a monster 4g63 buildup.
I want to go a little wild here since my GSX is becoming my track car, and my 'new' EVO 3will be the daily beat horse :) (I decided that is not worth selling the EVO 3 since I paid 3k for paperwork and shipping from UK) but anyway :
I got a 84k mile 6 bolt out of a talon tsi. The engine was running with no problems , and my friend sold it to me for $200 and got the car crushed. He was boosting 15psi on a stock 14b.

My parts list for the bottom end:
-Machine shop work with all the goodies, and block bored 20 over;
-Pauter X-beam rods or Oliver I beams?? not decided, would like some imput;
-Arias 6 bolt pistons 8.8:1 CR, I don't want 9.0:1 or nothing lower then 8.5:1 CR;
-new Eagle 6 bolt forged steel crank;
-SBR steel main caps with ARP studs ;
-OEM front cover;
-Clevite main and rod bearing set;
-new OEM water pump,
-new 1g timming kit;
-SBR oil pan;
-Balance Shaft eliminator kit;
-new crank pulley..
This is my list for the bottom end as of now;
Any other suggestions?

Cyl head parts list:
-hot tanked and pressure tested 1g head;
-Crower 64414 cams;
-SI Dual Springs with Manley TI retainers, and Manley steam locks;
-new revised lifters;
-Manley 1 mm valve kit;
-SI bronze valve guides;
-new OEM rockers;
-new OEM Stem seals;
-Cosmetic HG;
-hks cam gears;
Any other suggestions?

go with the x-beam rods,lose the eagle crank people have gone in the 8 with a stock crank go with a stock crank with arp bolt,lose the main caps you did need them trust me. i sold my rail car with 6-bolt to a local racer who rev's the car to 9500rpm and goes high 8's every sunday and the car goes rounds without a problem. i have been around 4g63 motor for over 10 years and ever seen a 6-bolt main caps go. 7-bolts yes but only with lots of boots and nitrous. we are hoping to be at the shootout this year good luck with everything
 
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