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1G throttle body on 2g, where do I run the coolant lines?

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dsmdeliveryboy

15+ Year Contributor
2,051
5
Aug 14, 2007
Medford, Oregon
Ok so I picked a 98 GSX and it appears it has a 1G throttle body on it and it doesn't have the coolant lines going to the bottom of the throttle body and they aren't capped off so I'm wondering what I do about that. Should I buy a FIAV block plate? Also, what do I do about the sensor on it since I'm pretty sure the 2G throttle bodies don't have the sensors that go by the throttle cable.
 
You dont have to use the cooland lines. Just take the longer line and route it back to the water pipe inlet and outlet for the tb. Unless you live in an area that has sub zero temps. I live in sc and my galant is done that way and has been for 3 years. In fact i used the tb outlets for my turbo inlet and outlet... so. its not necessary. As for the sensor by the throttle cable its a closed throttle sensor. If you used the 4 wire TPS when you did the swap which is the tps thats on a 2g then you dont worry about it. Keep it where its at and call it a day.
 
You dont have to use the cooland lines. Just take the longer line and route it back to the water pipe inlet and outlet for the tb. Unless you live in an area that has sub zero temps. I live in sc and my galant is done that way and has been for 3 years. In fact i used the tb outlets for my turbo inlet and outlet... so. its not necessary. As for the sensor by the throttle cable its a closed throttle sensor. If you used the 4 wire TPS when you did the swap which is the tps thats on a 2g then you dont worry about it. Keep it where its at and call it a day.

This may sound dumb, but is there a way you could explain how to route it back? I'm so confused as to have all of it works, I tried reading vfaq and searching but there is so many different things people have been doing..
 
Leave the coolant nipples capped on the throttle body.
Just loop the existing coolant lines, it's as simple as that.


FYI: I live in the Milwaukee area, last winter we had sub 15degree days. I have phenolic throttle body and intake manifold spacers, along with FIAV mod(Screwed all the way in aka fully closed), no coolant lines to the throttle body. I've had zero problems with hard starting.
It does seem "groggy" in the morning but my block heater helps with that. Like with anything though - it usually operates best fully warmed up.
 
My car acted groggy for a couple of years when it was a cold start up until i did some reading about the coolant temp switch and how it tells the car the temps so it dumps more fuel when its cold for rough start ups. I changed that sensor and BAM problem went away.. Odd how that works... LOL
 
My car idles like shit until its warmed up and even after its warmed up it idles from 700-1000rpm sometimes. Kind of a PITA. I'll try to get pics tomorrow, I don't think my vacuum lines are ran properly either so I'll post pics of that as well.
 
I had the same issue. I changed my coolant temp switch and the problem went away. Fuel and cold air do not atomize very well along with the cold temp of the pistons and cylinder walls. The switch tells the ecu that the car is cold so it dumps a little more fuel to compensate for that. Thats what i read, it totally made sense to me and i tried the theory out and it works.
 
These are the best pics I could get right now since its dark outside.

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Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I thought we already solved the collant line issue? What do u need help with now?
 
It looks fine they just looped the unused vaccumm port. There should be a vaccum diagram on the hood just follwo that. The only difference from 1g to 2g vaccumm ports is that the ports are facing the opposite way. There might be one more port on a 1g compared to 2g im not sure ill have to look. I havent got around to puting mine on yet. Hope this helps.
 
Here's a pic of the way I ran my coolant lines to the tb.

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