The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G NT Power loss over 3k

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Calloflunacy

10+ Year Contributor
50
0
Nov 27, 2009
Puyallup, Washington
So I recently got around to piecing my 93 eclipse back together. I had 8 bent valves, so I had to take the head to a machine shop. Luckily the valves just barely hit the pistons, so the pistons themselves were not damaged. I reinstalled the head with a shim so I wouldn't affect the valve clearance. I got brand new timing parts all OEM pulleys and belts and tensioner and followed the Vfaq on this website. I ended up having to do it three times becuase I wasn't satisfied with how they timing marks lined up after everything was done, but I made sure everything lined up after rotating the motor before doing anything else. got new head bolts, new stainless exhuast studs, new spark plugs, and even a new catalytic converter. After assembling everything, I started the car and without hesitation it fired right up after being apart for three months, which felt very good. I got out the timing light and advanced the timing to 6 degrees, and adjusted the Idle to about 800RPMs.

The Only thing I can't figure out now, is the car seems to have lost its power band. Normally at about 3K RPMs you can feel it pick up, but now it almost seems to loose power after 3K. The car is struggling to go up hills, and doesn't launch like it used to. Its not a turbo but it should still have more power than it does. It has excellent compression across the board, and timing it spot on, I checked for vacuum leaks but found none. So im wondering if perhaps im not getting proper airflow or not enough fuel. there is no check engine light comming on, and I have driven the car for a couple days to see if it would smooth out or go away, but the problem still remains. The car seems to be running lean so I am thinking its something to do with the fuel delivery system. I have fuel from the pump, I don't have an adapter to hook up a pressure gage to the fuel line, but it sprays with enough force to clear out of the engine compartment and go for several feet so I think its good. Other then that the car runs great, Idle is a little rough. If anyone has had a problem like this before, or knows of something commonly overlooked or missed in doing a head job that might be a cause of my problem I would greatly appreciate the advice.
 
Did you pull the bottom end apart to check for rod/crank damage when the valves bent? You probably have bottom end issues if it ran fine before, had head rebuilt (should be fine now), timing is spot on (Had to redo mine 3x as well so don't feel bad), no leaks/obstructions anywhere. You can try a leak down test and see if maybe just the rings were damaged.
 
I was hoping the lower end wouldn't have issues, but it is possible. I don't have the tools to do a leak down test, but before I replaced the head, I had one done which is how I discovered the valves weren't seating properly. when I get the money I will have another done if it doesn't end up being something else before then. thanks.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top