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1g not running up to par

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petey882

10+ Year Contributor
44
0
Jan 7, 2009
indian trail, North Carolina
hi have searched the forum and cant really find anything like what i am experiencing...... i have a 90 eclipse with 92 ecu swap has 16g turbo and 3" exhaust no cat, and walbro 255 hp pump with afpr set at 40psi...... car started running a little funny last week... when i first start driving the car it seems fine but the more i drive it and it warms up it seems like when the motor is under a little bit of a load something is taking power away almost like when your ac compressor kicks on and u feel that little bit of power go away but my car does not even have a compressor anymore so im not sure what it is.... today i checked the timing with timing light on upper cam gears set it at 5* also put new plugs in and chaged fuel filter still does the same thing...... about a month ago i put in prothane motor mounts and my idle went down to where the car would not stay running but i adjusted the biss screw like someone here suggested and that made it idle fine and car has been running fine since except for whats happening now...... i also did a boos leak tes today and everything is fine there also.... i dont have a logger or anything like that.... i was geeting check engine light but went away today when i unhooked battery but im sure it will be back on in a few days...when it was on i checked it and was getting injector code 41 and egr code( cant remember the number) not sure if this has anything to do with it but check engine light is not on right now and car still acts like sumthing is taking power away when it is warm..... would a bad alternator cause this by chance sometimes when i turn my inside fan on high my alt belt will squeel the whole time not sure if its just too loose or if my alt is going bad and maybe causing other probs too.... please help sorry this post was so long just want to give all the info i can
 
im going to say since you had to adjust the biss screw and have a cel for an injector, id put my money on it being injector related. im not sure what code 41 is though?
 
I know that when my knock sensor goop all ran out my car began to run wierd eventually got my logger on and was getting like 31 or 39 counts of knock. I forget the max amount. Can you borrow a friends logger or anyone near you that may have one?

*edit* it was pulling timing and it felt like the a/c on or like i lost mad power
 
Last edited:
set your fuel pressure at 37.5 first unless you have dsmlink because your probably running pretty rich.
 
to revmoto- if u read my post i did a boost leak test already and everything was fine in that dept.
im leaning towards knock sensor also bc it does seem like timing is being taken away when it does it also i do have a slight lifter tick when i first crank up was thinking about ordering the 3g lifters to take care of that it goes away after car warms up a little......
1983gsp- is there anything that can be done to stop it from causing phantom knock with the solid mounts or will a new knock sensor not be as sensitive....
the car did sit for about a year and a half but was started every few weeks to keep everything good so im sure a few sensors are going to go out the more i drive it but it just seems to get a little worse everyday seems to do it more when engine is under a slight load but it has done it in first gear when taking off also

also i set my afpr to 40psi bc i am getting boost creep when i get on it hard and dont wanna take the chance of running lean if i get on it too hard which i try not to do until i can get my o2 housing ported

i dont think the extra 2.5 psi is gonna hurt anything

is there any way to test the knock sensor at all..... i dont really know anyone with a logger or anyone with a dsm in my area that i actually know... got to looking at the car and the plug and all on the knock sensor looks new like it was replaced by PO havent actually crawled underneath to see the actual sensor but like i said the plug and the wires on the knock sensor look a lot newer than the wire harness does
 
I know that when my knock sensor goop all ran out my car began to run wierd

What does the back of your knock sensor look like? Can you see the little screw in the center of it or is it covered with the black "goop" mentioned before^?
 
there is no screw on the back of it just the metal prong the wire is connected to and there is black rubber feeling stuff on the back of the sensor but it is very smooth like it was made like that no signs of dripping or oily feeling at all i put a pic of it here not the best but all i could do with flashlight and my phone
 

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hey man. im getting this same damn problem. my car starts up fine and then starts to run like shit after it warms up. my check engine light is on for code 41 ( which is something in the fuel circuit ) i have replaced my injectors, pig tails, and fuel restrictor so far with out any improvements with my problem. have YOU checked your pigtails to your fuel injectors yet? look for any corrosion. test the ohms to each fuel injector and see what they read. should be within 2-3. let me know if u find out your problem cause im dealin with the same situation
 
anybody else got anything..... my check engine light came back on for about a week then went off now but the problem is still there but it doesnt do it all the time i am thinking its coming from my lifters since i have the solid mounts does this sound right?
 
Could be phantom knock causing the ecu to retard timing. You really need a way to log knock counts and see.
anybody else got anything..... my check engine light came back on for about a week then went off now but the problem is still there but it doesnt do it all the time i am thinking its coming from my lifters since i have the solid mounts does this sound right?
 
fallenauthority- could you please explain how it would be an improperly wired maf using the 92 ecu when the 90 and 92 both use the same maf
also dont have to change the wire harness to make the 92 ecu work just swap 2 wires around on the plug for the ecu and to make the gauge work need a ignition module from a 92 and its pigtail to make the gauge work properly so im certain it has nothing to do with that....... this problem did not start until after i installed the solid motor mounts thats why im thinkin it is phantom know but im not sure whats causing the phantom knock... my lifters do tick sometimes bc i still have the stock 1g lifters but it happens and i can pull over and let the motor idle and lifters arent ticking at all... could it be possible they are only ticking at higher rpms most of the time causing the phantom knock..... also is it possible to just unscrew the knock sensor and leave it plugged in or emlinate it period... cant really afford dms link right now thinking of getting a logger will that let me change anything with the knock sensor
 
i wouldnt drive without your knock sensor. its what saves your motor.but i would have someone help you log to findout wats going on. and how is the motor itself? is it an old stock motor and have you done a compression test after its warmed up?
 
fallenauthority- could you please explain how it would be an improperly wired maf using the 92 ecu when the 90 and 92 both use the same maf
also dont have to change the wire harness to make the 92 ecu work just swap 2 wires around on the plug for the ecu and to make the gauge work need a ignition module from a 92 and its pigtail to make the gauge work properly so im certain it has nothing to do with that....... this problem did not start until after i installed the solid motor mounts thats why im thinkin it is phantom know but im not sure whats causing the phantom knock... my lifters do tick sometimes bc i still have the stock 1g lifters but it happens and i can pull over and let the motor idle and lifters arent ticking at all... could it be possible they are only ticking at higher rpms most of the time causing the phantom knock..... also is it possible to just unscrew the knock sensor and leave it plugged in or emlinate it period... cant really afford dms link right now thinking of getting a logger will that let me change anything with the knock sensor

Those two wires you switch are for the MAF. You didnt mention that you swapped the two wires.
 
yes it is a stock motor... trans was replkaced 2 years ago along with head gasket, timing belt, tensioners, bs belt, and knock sensor..... car has been running fine until i installed the prothane motor mounts thats when this issue started..... i am trying to find someone with a logger to let me use until i can get the money to get one....just ordered the 3g lifters last night so hoping that will fix my problem they dont tick all the time but of course i cant hear them while i am driving bc i have full 3" exhaust with no cat so kinda loud so cant really tell if thats whats makin my knock sensor go crazy or not
 
yes i swapped the wires..... the car was running fine until a few days after i installed my prothane motor mounts thats when this problem started....... my revised lifters will be in this week so hopefully that will fix my problem
 
Lifters will tick will just tick, mine did for months no problem just tick, no knocking sounds, cels? Do you have a logger, sounds like something else mine ticked and my knock was really low on my logger. I dont see lifter tick will solve your issue, seems like something else is going on. Since you cant log its really hard to diagnose your issue.
 
iugrad- did you have the prothane motor mounts installed on your car..... people say when u install the solid mounds it makes the knock sensor a lot more sensitive to engine noise especially lifter tick
 
well got my lifters installed today and i think that did the trick..... drove about 25 miles after the new ones were finally pumped up[ and quit ticking and car runs sooooo much bettr now drove the whole time and did not stutter one time i havent been able to drive it once without it doing it sometime or another will drive around more this weekend and see what happens but so far i give 1000 thumbs up for the revised lifters
 
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