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1g hard start running rich

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Eclipse Freak

10+ Year Contributor
44
0
Jul 20, 2011
Bozeman, Montana
1g dsm hard start and idle surge with a rich fuel air mixture - YouTube

here is a video of how the car starts, it has a new....
o2 sensor
idle air control valve
throttle closed switch
maf
valves
head gasket kit
fuel pump
plugs
coil on plugs

I installed a narrow band a/f gauge I know they are crap I just wanted to know if i was rich or not and I am very. can anyone help me figure out what is making it hard to start and run super rich? :confused: also I checked the signal wires from the tps maf and o2 and all where good and not broken. HELP please?:banghead:

also i have a slight idle surge, yay me...:ohdamn:
 
1g dsm hard start and idle surge with a rich fuel air mixture - YouTube

here is a video of how the car starts, it has a new....
o2 sensor
idle air control valve
throttle closed switch
maf
valves
head gasket kit
fuel pump
plugs
coil on plugs

I installed a narrow band a/f gauge I know they are crap I just wanted to know if i was rich or not and I am very. can anyone help me figure out what is making it hard to start and run super rich? :confused: also I checked the signal wires from the tps maf and o2 and all where good and not broken. HELP please?:banghead:
The only way to tell if youre too rich is either with a wideband, or by pulling the plugs and visually inspecting them. That gauge looks pretty, but really will not get out of normal operating a/f ratios.

That could be an ecu issue
 
Try this. Pull your ecu out, take the cover off, and look at the board. See if you can see some bad caps or burned areas on the board. If you can take a pic of it, that would be good too.
 
i did do that a while ago and couldn't see any, but i can again.
When I hook up a volt meter to pull the codes I get maf tps cts codes and when I clear them It tells me normal state. maybe that helps in understanding my car haha

the code do come right back after the car runs for about a minute
 
i did do that a while ago and couldn't see any, but i can again.
When I hook up a volt meter to pull the codes I get maf tps cts codes and when I clear them It tells me normal state. maybe that helps in understanding my car haha

the code do come right back after the car runs for about a minute

Your cts could be the problem, I had one go out on my car a few weeks ago and it was running super rich and I had it happen on my Chevy truck about a year ago.
 
The one on the thermostat housing is the A/C, doesn't make a difference. If ECT is good, then def check the ECU.
 
I guess ill be the first to say it. Have you done a boost leak test? Id start with that seen how its free and might be your issue. Plus its always nice to know your leak free :D

Bust the top off your ecu and check for leaking caps( brown sappy stuff coming out of it) or swollen caps and trace burns ( looks like something grounded out on it) on the circuit board. Its pretty easy to spot if it one of these.

Also dont stress the connectors to the coolant temp and the other. The factory clips become brittle over time and break. Go on ask me how I know...:cool: I had to do the same to mine. If you want a piece of mind go pick up a set of good weather proof connectors.
 
Good deal. Dont rush the BLT, it may be time consuming but every little leak thats fixed helps more than you know. To make things easier get some dawn dish soap in a sprayable bottle and spray ALL your intercool pipes and vacuum pine. Its simple simon to spot a leaky connection with the spray.
When the BLT is complete and doesnt fix move on to the ECU. If the ECU checks out look to the Engine Coolant sensor. There are 3 on the thermostate housing but your concerned with the 2-prong sensor on the bottom left. That is the one that will cause very rich conditions.
Also I think the hard starts are related to you extreme rich A/F. To much fuel will prevent combustion. Could also be a injector stuck open if none of this fixes it . Just my .02 though
 
To me is just a Cooling Temperature Sensor issue, But a boost leak will absolutely be a good thing to do.
Also check to see if your Maf is plugged, disconnect and connected again to verify that it's good.

If you have a bad CTS, you are lucky that your car starts, mine doesn't starts at all if the CTS is bad or not hooked up.
 
Ok so haven't done the leak test yet but I opened my ecu to check it again and after closely looking at it I found one cap leaking with black nasty coming out of the bottom, so I believe I've found the major issue, thinking about trying to replace the cap and hope the board is ok. I'll post pics soon to show, but yeah not excited about this.:cry:
 
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