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1g fwd tsi talon ecu question

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gcihlar

10+ Year Contributor
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Feb 16, 2011
Weston, Wisconsin

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I'm on my second ecu in my TSi. The first one I had had caps leaking everywhere. The problems that that caused for me were major fuel cuts, horrible idle, and most of the time refusing to start.

see im having issues where the car hits some type of cut at like 7 psi for some reason ( feels like the car hits a brick wall and falls on its face) usually hit 15psi all day, im hoping replacing the caps will maybe help this but not positive what to use to clean the board. i figure i caught the leaking before it was to bad and can save the ecu if its cleaned up and order the caps off ebay ( yes i will also be doing a boost leak test)
 
If you suspect the ecu, do you hear any kinds of clicking sounds from behind your radio? When my ecu had troubles, it would click almost non-stop.

Yea everyone once and a while the mpi relay clicks, any input if the items i linked from ebay are any good? or any input what to use to clean the corrosion off the board?
 
Short of something worse for your ECU than the capacitor's electrolyte, your not going to find anything in a bottle or spray that will remove the corrosion. Cleaning the electrolyte off and fixing the corrosion are two different steps.

You have to be careful cleaning so you don't spread whatever electrolyte is on top of/under the corroded parts and cause new problems.

The electrolyte wicks under the SMD parts and if you don't remove them and clean it will continue to eat away at the solder and copper over time.

After cleaning, removing the corrosion, you then get to find all the macro and microscopic breaks in the circuit traces and fix them.

To answer your earlier question IC110 is the rectangular ceramic board sticking up left center. IC101 is the on the the right center. The part numbers are the white silkscreened text next to part.
 
Short of something worse for your ECU than the capacitor's electrolyte, your not going to find anything in a bottle or spray that will remove the corrosion. Cleaning the electrolyte off and fixing the corrosion are two different steps.

You have to be careful cleaning so you don't spread whatever electrolyte is on top of/under the corroded parts and cause new problems.

The electrolyte wicks under the SMD parts and if you don't remove them and clean it will continue to eat away at the solder and copper over time.

After cleaning, removing the corrosion, you then get to find all the macro and microscopic breaks in the circuit traces and fix them.

To answer your earlier question IC110 is the rectangular ceramic board sticking up left center. IC101 is the on the the right center. The part numbers are the white silkscreened text next to part.


Yea im just going to send it in to ecmtuning, I dont wanna make the computer worse. Thank you for everything man, Understand your short on free time but appreciate your input.
 
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