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1G FWD Dirt Oval Track Suspension Setup Help

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scottr126

15+ Year Contributor
366
2
May 24, 2003
CHICAGO, Illinois
I am racing a 1G FWD NT at my local clay oval track. Its a 1/4 mile track with a slight bank on the turns. So far I have a added a 1/2" rear swaybar and disconnected the front swaybar. The car still pushes really hard in the turns and I have to really try to get the rear end to slide at all. Anyone else have any experience and tips to setting one of these cars up? Please post up or PM me.

The class I am racing in is a stock class so I cant get too crazy with things.

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How much can you alter suspension angles? You can make it dog track by adjusting rear suspension angles to induce rear steer.
 
If it looks stock or somewhat stock then I can do it.

The thing is if I win I get inspected.
 
Redneck :)


I used to do the same thing a few years ago, I chopped the springs on the drivers side, and removed the front swaybar also, I didn't want to spend any cash, and really couldn't add anything but stock parts
 
A local guy I talked to races these as well. I noticed when looking over his car he has the brake master cylinder setup strange. Some how I believe instead of having it split to apply most pressure to your front brakes and the rest to the rear. His was setup so most pressure was on the driver side of the vehicle and the lesser pressure on the passenger side, this was to help pitch it. I'm unsure of his class but he did have different springs on his car other than stock.
 
I haven't aligned it yet. At the last race I bent something up front because the steering wheel is about 90 degrees off. I am going to fix it and then align it.


What are your current alignment settings?
 
What about running a shim on the top hat of the drivers side front strut to get some wedge into the car. What kind of camber adjustments can you make? I run in a street class we don't have any rules as far as suspension, the only requirement is the car has to be street legal and inspected. wedge and camber make all the difference but that's only if its legal for you. what are your lap times and do you have any idea what speeds you're running at? Tire pressures are a huge deal too. if you want the car to get loose try dropping the pressure in the drivers side rear. that is the wheel with the least amount of force on it. lower pressure will help it slide. I've never raced on dirt so I'm of little help to you but that is my experience with asphalt. Hope this helps.

Cool car by the way. circle track racing is a lot of fun.
 
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having an FWD car slide around in the dirt is gonna be pretty difficult, i raced in a modified class, so i had a lot more leeway on my suspension, but i would definately look at putting a shim in the right front coil to give you some wedge, you want the weight of the car to be on your right front, which is where it is normally in a turn however you also want to be able to grip on the left. i would go to a junk yard and buy some used tires, change the stagger size a bit, put a bigger tire on your left rear, and a smaller on your right rear, this will help drag that rear end around (against conventional wisdom on stagger, only because its FWD not RWD) keep in mind a little goes a long way, 1 inch in outside diameter will do a lot to your handling.
 
First: that looks like a total blast.

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The above picture seems to show positive outside front camber. That's not good. When you align it, try for at least -2.5* on the outside front and maybe a smidgeon of toe out, as well. In the rear, run a lot of toe-out; that way, when the weight shifts, the outside rear will start moving out on its own.
 

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^^^^ He does bring up a good point, but i would be careful while doing it, too much toe out on the rear will make that car super loose, but then, thats when it is fun right?
 
Do you have any build pictures of this? I find it very intriguing and want to see more...
 
The suspension is all stock there, I think the angle just looks a little weird. The rear unfortunately has no alignment adjustments but I am looking into ways to mess with the front camber.

-Scott


First: that looks like a total blast.



The above picture seems to show positive outside front camber. That's not good. When you align it, try for at least -2.5* on the outside front and maybe a smidgeon of toe out, as well. In the rear, run a lot of toe-out; that way, when the weight shifts, the outside rear will start moving out on its own.
 
Honestly the fastest way I have found to turn is to just stay off the brakes and to kick the rear end of the car out. However its tough to do because the cars fwd and the clay is unpredictable.

^^^^ He does bring up a good point, but i would be careful while doing it, too much toe out on the rear will make that car super loose, but then, thats when it is fun right?
 
The rear is a beam-type, correct? If so bend it. A little google should show you the process. On the front, slot the stut ears. If that isn't enough, trade out your strut bolts for ones of a slightly smaller diameter (7/16?). I wouldn't do that on a street car, but it will work.
 
I think I will stay away from bending the rear beam, I don't want to risk weakening it at all.. I'm going to mess with the front end a bit though.


The rear is a beam-type, correct? If so bend it. A little google should show you the process. On the front, slot the stut ears. If that isn't enough, trade out your strut bolts for ones of a slightly smaller diameter (7/16?). I wouldn't do that on a street car, but it will work.
 
Here is my build thread:

Some friends and I are putting together a 1G DSM to race out at Sycamore Speedway on their dirt oval track. I will be racing in the Compact Class. The rules are pretty simple..

-No Turbos
-2WD
-Stock Motor
-All windows but windshield must be removed
-All exterior lights must be removed
-Roll Bars HIGHLY Recommended (Thanks Greg for the install!)

I found the perfect car, its a 92 Eagle Talon Non-Turbo with a 4G63, no ABS, and no sunroof.

Planned work:

-8 point roll bar
-Oil pressure and water temp warning lights
-Power seat belt removal
-Audio removal
-Polyurethane motor mounts
-Side exit exhaust near right rear tire
-Big front and rear tow hooks
-Hood pins
-Basic maintenance

1st race day is April 28th. I will try to post up pictures as I go along.

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Interior removal beginning.

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At the shop getting ready for the 8 point roll bar install.

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Hood pins installed and battle damage touched up.

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Main hoop in!

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Greg, a fabricator from AMS installing the rear bars.

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Simple oil pressure and water temperature warning lights.

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UPDATE 1, 3-27-12

We finished the roll bar and painted it. I had to replace the clutch master cylinder, change the trans fluid, and replace some exhaust gaskets. Tomorrow I am going to put in some more work.

Passenger door bar in place.

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Driver door bar.

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My custom hatch trim to cover where the window trim previously was :)

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Greg doing work.

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Roll bar painted. Interior still not in yet though.

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Looks good, What are your lap times and how long is the track you run on?
 
I just ran my first time lap last night, on a wet track and a so so pass I did a 17.75, the track is a 1/4 mile and is banked clay.



Looks good, What are your lap times and how long is the track you run on?
 

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