Resolved 1G Fuse Box & Wire Tuck Help

[@TDC]

Hey guys! I decided to put my car down for the winter and pay some attention to detail. I pulled out my main engine harness. I am going to pull the fuse box this weekend.

I do have a 90 TSI and have printed out the entire 1990 harness identification thread. As well as the numerous other threads with 1G harness information. I am following a couple 1G tucked builds as well. I also purchased the complete 1990 service manual which should be a nice upgrade to my Chiltons manual and bought a nice set of soldering equipment.

I do have a couple questions. First I am looking to relocate the fuse box to the inside of the car. I'm guessing wires from the fuse box would need to be extended right? Would this be the only way to do this? Are there other methods? Will the voltage drop because the longer distance of travel? Is it safe for the ECU?

Next I've deleted all emissions, AC and other accessories. I'm also looking towards deleting PS. Before I rip into the harness. Do any of the wires that I will delete tie into existing wires that lead to the ECU? Or will it affect any other sensors or ECU if their removed?

 

[19Eclipse90]

Looks okay to me. The two wiring circuits do nothing with each other outside of sharing the grounding location.

 

[@TDC]

Looks okay to me. The two wiring circuits do nothing with each other outside of sharing the grounding location.

Sweet! Thanks a lot! That was the exact part of the service manual that I was referencing. I had to write it out to simplify it for me! Just curious if you know what the purpose is for the brown sleeve that covers wires? It had a exposed wire coming out from it.

 

[19Eclipse90]

To prevent the transfer of electrical noise to or from the circuit.

A bit of a canned response but I don't know why else it would be there.

 

[serviceguy]

It's called in fact shield and it does exactly what explained by 19eclipse90. Make sure only one end of it is connected to the ground in order to prevent ground loop.

 

[@TDC]

It's called in fact shield and it does exactly what explained by 19eclipse90. Make sure only one end of it is connected to the ground in order to prevent ground loop.

Got it! I will make sure of that!

To prevent the transfer of electrical noise to or from the circuit.

A bit of a canned response but I don't know why else it would be there.

Thanks a lot sir! I am also a little confused with deleting the read defogger relay and the connector that goes to the solenoids. (fps,egr,ect) I am going to try and look at the diagrams before coming to this thread. If I have any questions I'll be back! Thanks again guys for all of your help! I really appreciate it!

 

[@TDC]

I wrote out another diagram to show how I deleted plug A-13. I'm pretty sure this was the correct way but I'm just a little stuck on the defogger relay. I am going to delete the noise condenser which is plug C-56 since I'm getting rid of the defogger relay. Will it be fine to delete plug C-57? I'm not sure what the function of that plug is? I could not find the diagram for the defogger relay in the factory service manual. I also was not sure about connector A-53. I know this goes to the fuse box and from the above thread posted it goes to a sub fusible link. ( alternator fuse in engine compartment junction box) Will it be okay to delete this connector? Will it interfere with anything if I delete it?

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[19Eclipse90]

For A-13, it is all correct. As long as you make sure everything else that uses the same voltage source (red wire), which looks like the injector resistor pack and the ISC motor -- and that you intend to keep -- retain their power, you'll be fine.

For A-53 and C-57, see the below diagram. If you have the electronic copy of the '91 FSM which might make things easier, it is page 8-297 or simply 297 of 320. A-53 is an intermediate connector. If you delete the defogger relay, it renders A-53 useless. C-57 is sort of the same way in that, if you delete the defogger relay, the defogger isn't going to work anyway.

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And the noise condenser is A-56. The O2 check connector is C-56.

 

[@TDC]

For A-13, it is all correct. As long as you make sure everything else that uses the same voltage source (red wire), which looks like the injector resistor pack and the ISC motor -- and that you intend to keep -- retain their 12v of power, you'll be fine.

For A-53 and C-57, see the below diagram. If you have the electronic copy of the '91 FSM which might make things easier, it is page 8-297 or simply 297 of 320. A-53 is an intermediate connector. If you delete the defogger relay, it is useless. C-57 is sort of the same way in that, if you delete the defogger relay, the defogger isn't going to work anyway.

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And the noise condenser is A-56. The O2 check connector is C-56.

Great!! Thanks so much! This will be the last piece I have to delete. Now I will need to route each individual harness. Then on to the fuse box harness.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sweet its coming along you got me motivated to start working on mine this spring, I hate the wiring mess in there, did one on the fwd now I need to do another.

 

[1992awdtalon]

I know this is a super old post but i cant find and answer to my question i was wondering if someone can help me? im building a full drag car and want to know what in the engine wiring harness is needed? basically water temp gauges and oil pressure and everything else is going to be separate. does the ecu need to know the water temp and oil pressure and etc? Thank you

 

[steve]

I'm building a full drag car and want to know what in the engine wiring harness is needed?

Assuming you're going to use a factory ECU, I'd suggest reading the fuel section of the 1G DSM Technical Manual. It explains which and how the ECU processes the various sensors.

The ECU needs the coolant temp but doesn't read the oil pressure. That only goes to the gauge cluster.

 

[1992awdtalon]

Assuming you're going to use a factory ECU, I'd suggest reading the fuel section of the 1G DSM Technical Manual. It explains which and how the ECU processes the various sensors.

The ECU needs the coolant temp but doesn't read the oil pressure. That only goes to the gauge cluster.

Yes im using the stock ECU. Thank you and yes i forgot oil pressure is just for the cluster. Thanks again

 

[steve]

I forget offhand what the stock ECU code does at shutdown notification but I know DSMLink saves any changes it has while it was running, between the time you turn the ignition off and the power tuns off. That's something to keep in mind when your designing the wiring, you might want to keep an MPI relay driven by the ECU so that you continue to get the delay.