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1G 1g clutch issue

bgold87

Probationary Member
24
4
Nov 20, 2019
Louisville, Kentucky
Restoring a 92 Talon. When I got it, it didn't have a slave. So put a new master, slave, and stainless line on. I've bled the shit out of it and have a lot of dead clutch pedal. Is this a bad pedal assembly? Is it worth pulling tranny to see if it's a clutch issue?

The pedal doesn't even start to move the rod on master until 1/4" from floor. And yes it's adjusted all the way out.

Video Attached:
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
6,391
1,643
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
It isnt the hydraulics. Your pedal assembly is worn out. You will have to repair/replace/weld the worn parts just above the clevis pin at the master. Well documented problem and common on 1g cars
 

bgold87

Probationary Member
24
4
Nov 20, 2019
Louisville, Kentucky
It isnt the hydraulics. Your pedal assembly is worn out. You will have to repair/replace/weld the worn parts just above the clevis pin at the master. Well documented problem and common on 1g cars
That was my thoughts, its just dead pedal for several inches so hard to blame the hyd. Now it is an aftermarket master and slave. Thanks for the quick reply.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
6,391
1,643
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Pedal kind of sucks to remove/repair.
Fair warning.

You can see how bad the play is if you lay on your back, grab the pedal in one hand and the clevis lever with the other and move them. Did you check the nut that holds it together? That much play I doubt that will help but take a look.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

bgold87

Probationary Member
24
4
Nov 20, 2019
Louisville, Kentucky
You can see how bad the play is if you lay on your back, grab the pedal in one hand and the clevis lever with the other and move them. Did you check the nut that holds it together? That much play I doubt that will help but take a look.
Honestly I haven't checked that yet. Just ordered the rebuild stuff from RTM but I'll take a look afterwhile. Appreciate all the help!
 

benspilk09

Proven Member
127
64
Feb 16, 2010
Little Rock, Arkansas
I rebuilt my pedal last fall. New bronze bushing from JNZ and I welded a new arm to the shaft. It is holding so far. It is a big job, it took me an entire day.

You probably won't have any luck with the aftermarket cylinders. Mine never worked right and the master eventually failed after a few thousand miles. The clutch works 10x better now that I went with an OEM master/slave cylinder.

They are an entirely different design inside. Aftermarket ones are junk.
 

bgold87

Probationary Member
24
4
Nov 20, 2019
Louisville, Kentucky
Pedal kind of sucks to remove/repair.
Fair warning.

You can see how bad the play is if you lay on your back, grab the pedal in one hand and the clevis lever with the other and move them. Did you check the nut that holds it together? That much play I doubt that will help but take a look.

Well, there's no nut on there LOL I don't see a stud like the nut was removed, wondering if someone snapped it off. Gotta love restores!
 

XC92

Proven Member
670
91
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
Yes, there was another member who recently posted about clutch issues, only to discover the nut was quite loose. He tightened it and made a significant improvement. This will not require removing the pedal assembly.

Yeah that was me and tightening the nut definitely helped, by taking up the slop/play that was there before the MC rod started moving.

But I view this as a temporary fix as the real reason there's too much play is that the double-"D" fitting between the pedal lever and pedal shaft/rod has worn down, requiring either a new lever, rod or welding them together. Only tightening the nut just substituted friction for a proper tight fit and will work itself loose eventually.

In the OP's case, though, it appears that there's no nut or threaded rod at all, so the problems are more serious. Perhaps someone snapped it off trying to tighten it (as I did, only I was careful to not overdo it). Sounds like the whole thing has to come out to be properly diagnosed and fixed, and parts replaced.
 

Mech Addict

Supporting Member
474
173
Jun 9, 2019
Jackson, Wyoming
It wasn't clear to me if he knew where to look for the clutch pedal shaft/lever coupling, making it hard to guess at exactly what's going on. It does take some contortion to get a good photo, or wrench in there. Removing the driver's seat and steering wheel is also handy, and doesn't take that much to R&R.
 

XC92

Proven Member
670
91
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
It is pretty hard to figure it all out in there initially and you really do have to scrunch up inside under the dash a few times to get the hang of it, where to look, how to contort yourself, etc. I finally figured it out and even then I had to put a socket and wrench on it to determine that it was loose. But, again, tightening is not a real solution, just buying some time. Sounds like he won't be able to do even that, if I understood his description correctly.
 

bgold87

Probationary Member
24
4
Nov 20, 2019
Louisville, Kentucky
Got a rebuild kit with brass bushing and it works great! Thanks for all the info guys.
 

XC92

Proven Member
670
91
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
Was it the RTM kit? I plan on doing something similar soon.
 
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