1G clutch grabs different when warmed up

[clang1114]

I notice that my act2600 clutch kit grabs differently when the car has been driven a few miles. On startup it grabs about in the middle. When it is fully warm the clutch will grab closer to the top. I also notice if it idle for a while it will grab even higher. Is this something with hydraulics? Or is it with the pressure plate?

Some background. I had shifting issues in the past abs I now have a new slave, new master, welded clutch pedal assembly. This problems still existed after completely rebuilding my engine. While the tranny was accessible I changed the shift fork and throw out bearing. And made sure the pivot ball was properly shimmed.

 

[Chipper308]

how old is the clutch, i know my new southbend clutch is dragging(getting fixed tomorrow) but it shifts like a dream while cold but grabs real hard when it heats up a little bit and starts to drag again. maybe a spacing issue? is your fork traveling the full ammount it can? did u bleed the slave all the way? as well as the lines? maybe air being effected by temperature and expanding in the lines.

 

[kchaazz]

The easiest thing to check is to push the fork toward the driver's side of the car, pushing the rod into the slave cylinder. You should be able to push the fork easily. If you cannot push the fork in, then youve got the valve in the master cylinder blocked by having your adjustment rod out too far, which is preventing the fluid in the line and slave from being able to return to the reservoir. This becomes a problem as the fluid heats and expands and will cause the symptoms you are having. To correct, just turn the master cylinder adjustment rod in, towards the pedal a quarter turn at a time and push on the fork after every quarter turn until you can push the fork in, then tighten the jamb nut on the adjustment rod and youre done.

Just to be clear, the above mentioned isnt the only thing to cause the issue you are having, it is just the simplest thing to check and correct.

 

[Chipper308]

The easiest thing to check is to push the fork toward the driver's side of the car, pushing the rod into the slave cylinder. You should be able to push the fork easily. If you cannot push the fork in, then youve got the valve in the master cylinder blocked by having your adjustment rod out too far, which is preventing the fluid in the line and slave from being able to return to the reservoir. This becomes a problem as the fluid heats and expands and will cause the symptoms you are having. To correct, just turn the master cylinder adjustment rod in, towards the pedal a quarter turn at a time and push on the fork after every quarter turn until you can push the fork in, then tighten the jamb nut on the adjustment rod and youre done.

Just to be clear, the above mentioned isnt the only thing to cause the issue you are having, it is just the simplest thing to check and correct.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw&feature=player_detailpage[/ame]

 

[clang1114]

The easiest thing to check is to push the fork toward the driver's side of the car, pushing the rod into the slave cylinder. You should be able to push the fork easily. If you cannot push the fork in, then youve got the valve in the master cylinder blocked by having your adjustment rod out too far, which is preventing the fluid in the line and slave from being able to return to the reservoir. This becomes a problem as the fluid heats and expands and will cause the symptoms you are having. To correct, just turn the master cylinder adjustment rod in, towards the pedal a quarter turn at a time and push on the fork after every quarter turn until you can push the fork in, then tighten the jamb nut on the adjustment rod and youre done.

Just to be clear, the above mentioned isnt the only thing to cause the issue you are having, it is just the simplest thing to check and correct.

So ive tried this in the past. I've adjusted it like the video says. I turn the rod until I can push the slave back in. The only problem is that when I do this the clutch grabs a little too low for my liking. So I am forced to turn it back about a full thread to make it so the clutch grabs good.

I wish there was a way to adjust it like the video says without the clutch grabbing so low off the flow. I have a welded pedal assembly so I know thats not the issue. The pivot ball is shimmed too. I have a friend that has the exact issue im having. When he adjusts it like the video it disengages but is a little notchy.

how old is the clutch, i know my new southbend clutch is dragging(getting fixed tomorrow) but it shifts like a dream while cold but grabs real hard when it heats up a little bit and starts to drag again. maybe a spacing issue? is your fork traveling the full ammount it can? did u bleed the slave all the way? as well as the lines? maybe air being effected by temperature and expanding in the lines.

The clutch is fairly new. The fork moves properly too. I will try to bleed it again.

 

[pauleyman]

OEM slave and master too?

 

[Chipper308]

When you bleed the slave make sure u open the bleeder and push the slave/fork to the drivers side by hand and close it off and let it suck fluid back thru...I had air in there and it didn't come out with just bleeding lines. What about fluid? Is it new? Old fluid can be contaminated by moisture and doesn't hold like it should

 

[kchaazz]

Hmm. Well, in your case, the trouble with the engagement point changing is 100% due to having the valve in the master blocked by having the adjustment rod out too far.
1. Follow this bleeding method: How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering

2.If you are still unable to get the clutch to release properly without having the rod so far out its blocking the valve in the master, consider removing the transmission, thouroughly checking the flywheel step height with the proper tools, check for surface warpage on both flywheel and pressure plate and slide the clutch disc onto the input shaft of the transmission, back and forth, to ensure that the disc can slide smoothly and freely on the splines. (Did you grease the shaft before? You need to)