The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G CAS in 2Ga no spark

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Detective Coating

10+ Year Contributor
936
67
Jun 26, 2008
Richmond, Virginia
Trying to get help for a buddy of mine, he has a 96 using the stock harness and stock ECU. We have wired the CAS via Magnus's writeup and RRE's V2 with no luck. We have tried 2 CAS's, one is known working from a running car. We have also tried different PT's and coil packs, also known working. The injector wires have been swapped at the ECU.

I've tried spinning both CAS's and cannot hear the fuel pump kick on at all with either one. We haven't verified that it is getting fuel but I'd rather solve a non spark problem first. The ECU visually looks fine, the boost gauge goes up and then down after 5 seconds and the CEL comes on so it is getting power. We've checked over all of the wiring numerous times with no luck, same with the fuses.

This is a non-dsmlink equipped car. The CAS is not 180 degrees out either, I've verified it numerous times. It does crank but will not fire. I'm lost at what else to check so any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Make sure the power transistor is plugged on all the way. My buddys 2g 6 bolt swap was having problems, we keep blaming the wiring and redoing it, only to figure out the PT that looked good wasn't on all the way and would just barley pop off and kill the car.
 
your looking in the right spot you just gotta look harder.

its either cas, ecu or related wiring.

also couldn't hurt to make sure your ignition system has no issues with wires, transistor box, coil and plugs.

if you check for fuel that will tell you if its the ignition system or cas, ecu , wiring.
 
you might of wired it wrong....that's my thought from what you've said... samething had happened to me but i turned out to be how i wired it.... good luck

I've checked the wiring probably 5 different times with no luck.

your looking in the right spot you just gotta look harder.

its either cas, ecu or related wiring.

also couldn't hurt to make sure your ignition system has no issues with wires, transistor box, coil and plugs.

I really don't know where else to look since I've looked it all over numerous times. All the wiring checks out, we tested a few of the plugs and all were getting power.
 
if you have fuel then you know its ignition.

are you checking connector fitment?
wire wiggle test?
corrosion on pins?
pin alignment?
greater than 9.5v going to the ecu while cranking?

good grounds for ecu?
damage to harness while installing motor?
 
if you have fuel then you know its ignition.

are you checking connector fitment?
wire wiggle test?
corrosion on pins?
pin alignment?
greater than 9.5v going to the ecu while cranking?

good grounds for ecu?
damage to harness while installing motor?

I haven't concluded that we have fuel yet, I'd rather get the spark issue out of the way first. I smell fuel but have not checked for it yet. I haven't heard the fuel pump kick on though even with my ear right against the sending unit while cranking.

I have not checked the power to the ECU while cranking yet, I can do so tomorow. The rest I have checked and all seems to be good. No damage I am aware of to the harness during installation, I've traced all wires to the firewall with no damage to them there.
 
The ECU visually looks fine, the boost gauge goes up and then down after 5 seconds and the CEL comes on so it is getting power. We've checked over all of the wiring numerous times with no luck, same with the fuses.

This isn't right. The CEL should turn on for five seconds and go off. The boost gauge should more to 0 and stay there until you start cranking when it drops, and then back to 0 when you start.

Which 1G CAS did you use? A junk 90 CAS with the pigtail or a 91+ and connector.

If you wired the CAS correctly you should see 12v on one wire, ground on another and 5v pulsing as you turn the CAS on the other two.
 
This isn't right. The CEL should turn on for five seconds and go off. The boost gauge should more to 0 and stay there until you start cranking when it drops, and then back to 0 when you start.

That's what I meant to say, guess I wasn't paying attention as to what I was saying.

Which 1G CAS did you use? A junk 90 CAS with the pigtail or a 91+ and connector.

Both of them are from 92's. The known good one is from an N/A but I'm almost positive that they are the same. The harness is different from what the how-to's are saying with the yellow wire in the diagram being white but I never go by the wire color, I just go by the pinout.

If you wired the CAS correctly you should see 12v on one wire, ground on another and 5v pulsing as you turn the CAS on the other two.

We got 12v on the one but did not check the 5v while cranking, I will make sure to check that in the morning.
 
if you didnt undo your battery while wiring this up, the chances of your 20A engine fuse being blown are pretty high..check it!!
 
if you didnt undo your battery while wiring this up, the chances of your 20A engine fuse being blown are pretty high..check it!!

I think you made it clear to check it the first, second and third time. Of course it was unplugged but I've seen strange shit happen. I'll check it again just for you :thumb:
 
I just cant stress the fact that my friend and his "pals" were stumped on there 1g ina 2g swap for a whole week, went through (2) working blacktop CAS's, ripping out ECU, trying others. After hearing this, I walked over to his car, pulled the fuse box, popped in a new fuse, grabbed his keys, started his car. Got out and said, its in the flick of the wrist. (old car starting joke) :p

Good luck!
 
Yeah, i didnt read where he said he tested and saw 12v....So are you sure you wired it right?? Isnt it just splicing the 3 wires from the Crank sensor Harness, and one wire into the Cam signal? I wanna see how this thing is wired. Because if you're using those little "clip-on" connectors and not cutting/ soldering then you could have problems
 
My coil pack plug needed to be cleaned 2 times so far. I have had the same problem as you and I just cleaned all the plugs for the CAS and to coil pack and the plug coming from the old crank sensor. Make sure you see no green build up.
 
Yeah, i didnt read where he said he tested and saw 12v....So are you sure you wired it right?? Isnt it just splicing the 3 wires from the Crank sensor Harness, and one wire into the Cam signal? I wanna see how this thing is wired. Because if you're using those little "clip-on" connectors and not cutting/ soldering then you could have problems

I can take pictures of it today but I'm 100% it is right. At the moment we have them twisted together tightly. There's no point in soldering until you know the wiring is correct.

Well that was easy enough, popped a new fuse in and she was good to go, it must have blown when we were moving the wires around even though all fuses were good the 5+ times that we checked them. I can't believe it fired up with 3 year old gas in it!! I guess you need to check your fuses 6+ times to make sure they are good when messing with anything..
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top