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Resolved 1G Car Cranks, has fuel, has spark, has timing belt, won't turn over for more than 1sec

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Jackson

20+ Year Contributor
98
1
Jan 10, 2003
Okay, here is my specific problem. My car cranks but won't turn over. My battery is kinda pooched, but I charge it up and I get about 4 good tries before it's dead (I have a volt meter hooked up).

Is this the problem due to a dead alternator killing my battery in the process? I am running a VERY demanding system (800 RMS @ 4 ohms + ps2 and screens) or could this be something else?

Yet even after a good charging, my car just won't start. o2 sensor other than that its kinda old. My AEM reads the TPS fine so I know that one is good. Any ideas? Cause it will randomly start from time to time with the stock ECU. ( very spuratically)
 
Solution
This thread will now be ended. I have FINALLY got the car to turn over. Now here is the list of what I replaced:

Replaced the ECU with and AEM EMS
Replaced the MPI Relay
Replaced the Fuel Filter
Replaced Idle Switch
Replaced Sanity
Replaced Coolant Temperature Sensor

The final thing I replaced was the fuel filter. Though the MPI relay made the car turn over better, it just didn't idle due to a lack of fuel. Once I got the filter replaced, it idled up great. Now to get the car back into once piece after sitting for 6 college months.

Thank you again everyone for all the help.
UPDATE!

I did an OBDI ghetto code checker and it came back with a faulty ECU. Now if the ECU looks solid, and with either the ECU or my AEM EMS I get fuel and spark. Timing marks are lined up. BUT, what other relays, resistors and fuses run to my ECU that would enable these 2 things to work but would no enable to turn my car over?

And don't say MPI anything cause I have fuel ;) Thanks in advance.

As for the temp sensor, good idea but I get the code for faulty ECU so it has to be something along those lines.
 
Okay, as a hunch I cracked open my MPI relay and only one of the 2 relays is connecting when I turn my car onto the on position, Now, when I manually trip the other relay, I can hear whatever it trips turn on under the hood. Now, just one question, if you are looking at the realy with the switched facing up, what is the relay on the right side? I know one is for fuel ( which works) but what is the other relay and what is it connected to?
 
Keep me posted. One of the relays back there is clicking, which tells me its working but it might be working properly. Since it wasnt an all-of-a-sudden problem I dont see it as being timing as that should have caused the issue to just be there all the time. Ill pop that relay out when i get home and check it.
 
If nothing else worked, check the plug to the mas. One time I forgot to plug it back in after some work, OMG LOL, and it would run for 1 second and shut off kinda like what you're describing. Just another idea.
 
i have a 1g dsm turbo and i encountered a prob where the car wouldnt start, it would take like 20 tries to get it started and it would throw a fuel pump error code, instead of changing the fuel pump i had a hunch to change my temp sensor and surprise surprise problem solved and the error code went away, car ran great
 
I have spare 90 engine in storage, does the 90 sensor swap into a 91? (mos tother things don't from that year, I need to buy a Service Manual....).
 
I put a new temp sensor in, just incase and still nothing. I havent tried to start the car in a few weeks, might hook the ecu back up and give it a try. I miss driving my car :(

As for the relay i did not pull yet but will get a chance this weekend if i can fix my gf's pos ford ranger.
 
Yeah, the MPI Relay is right next to the ECU ( which you probably knew) and to open it all you have to do is press open the 3 tabs around the metal casing and it slides right out.

Did you rig up the OBD I tester? Here is the website again if you want to rig one up for like 2 buck. For the LED I used an X-Mas LED ;)

http://www.dsm.org/archives/1998/09/19980907.txt/23.html

gl man, I feel your pain and we have the same basic mods on our cars so my guess is the problem is simular in nature.
 
Jackson said:
. First off, the firing order for a 1g is 1,4,2,3 correct? ( please correct me if I am wrong) and secondly, if this is all in correctly, then what could cause this. I am running HELLA rich and when we pull the plugs, they are soaked and the carbon build up on the new plugs is really bad. t
I believe the firing order is 1,3,4,2. Sounds kinda like that could be your problem.
 
chris49582 said:
I believe the firing order is 1,3,4,2. Sounds kinda like that could be your problem.

:rolleyes:

ok correct firing order is 4-1-2-3, that could be youre problemo... I'm surprisde noone else picked that up in 30 replies.
 
xcelr8n said:
:rolleyes:

ok correct firing order is 4-1-2-3, that could be youre problemo... I'm surprisde noone else picked that up in 30 replies.

LOL! Good call but the plugs are in correct order ( I hope if I can switch my ignition coils that i know my plug order :thumb: )
 
oldman said:
Be carefull, I think the coil is 1234 or 4321 if I remember correctly.

Pop your hood and look for yourself. Looking at the coil pack from the drivers side, the plug wires should run, 4,1,2,3. Thats the way they were in my car before I pulled everything out and thats the way people have told me in the past for a 1g.

Temp snesor is in. What if its valves? The only reason I think it may be it is that on my #1 plug when I pull it after trying to crank it over, it looks like I put dry ice down in my cylinders with exhasut gases leaking up. SO, valves or lifter???
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Update: I replaced the temperature probe.

I am getting less fuel dumped in but my car still won't turn over. I checked my spare ECU and it appears the caps may be leaking. I have new caps en route (thankfully the board didn't look fried) and I hope to get this sometime installed sometime within the next week.
 
Changing the caps now might be too late, pm steve if caps don't work out, he can probably fix it for you.
 
The board is no corroded in any way shape or form. There is goo leaking out of 2 of the caps but none of the board is fried..... or at least none that I see before removing the caps. User name Steve, where does he live? I am on the West Coast of Canada litterally 10 miles north of Washington State.
 
according to hayes manuel engine firing order is 1-3-4-2
cyc 1 is on the far right and goes in order going left (1 2 3 4 ) :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :talon:
 
This thread will now be ended. I have FINALLY got the car to turn over. Now here is the list of what I replaced:

Replaced the ECU with and AEM EMS
Replaced the MPI Relay
Replaced the Fuel Filter
Replaced Idle Switch
Replaced Sanity
Replaced Coolant Temperature Sensor

The final thing I replaced was the fuel filter. Though the MPI relay made the car turn over better, it just didn't idle due to a lack of fuel. Once I got the filter replaced, it idled up great. Now to get the car back into once piece after sitting for 6 college months.

Thank you again everyone for all the help.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
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