1g awd trans question/problem

[dral24]

ok guys here's my story, i picked up a laser rs awd turbo through a trade it has a 6 bolt motor awd trans, now here's my problem...was told the clutch in it is fairly new and aftermarket, now the pedal is super stiff and grabs really low, like on the floor (and yes fluid leels are fine im not an idiot ) but he told me he thinks its due to it being aftermarket he thinks its straining the clutch fork possibly bending it and gave me another awd trans with the car incase..my thing is he said it did it with both trans's cause he's had both in, also the one in now grinds second unless u really baby it into gear im thinking syncro for that one but he said maybe the cables just lookin for some opinions and help on this one... all input is appreciated!!

 

[1983gsp]

Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube

 

[dral24]

!!

oh i also have a short shifter in it

 

[agentorange313]

Some aftermarket clutch, depending on what one you have, require and extended slave cylinder rod to be used.

Also, do you know the condition of the fork that's in your trans right now. Forks over time bend and become distorted.

If you do choose to rebuild it, I would advise replace all external trans components: fork, pivot ball, retaining clip, slave, TOB etc.

 

[dral24]

no idea what clutch an no i do not know the condition but i kno they dnt have an aweful amount of miles on the trans's but he said it had the problem with both transmissions is it likely both forks could be bent?

 

[Bo0sTdTsI]

Might be the clutch, my act 2900 did that, ended up being adjustments on it.

 

[dral24]

On the clutch or on the clutch pedal? And are you answering the stif clutch problem, the second gear problem or both?

 

[agentorange313]

did you watch that video?

 

[dral24]

Yes sir, but my question is if people have had a problem with a after market clutch bending or straining the clutch fork and if there is a chance my second gear grind can be caused by that or if its most likely the syncro...

 

[KBasham03]

Properly adjust the clutch by backing out the master cylinder rod like the above poster said, then come back here if you still have issues

 

[hayourwifeleftu]

It's probably your clutch pedal assembly. Push your clutch in when it's all the way back output your toes behind it and pull out if it pulls out towards you it's probably shot.

 

[Avatar_Squadron]

Stiff pedal is common with performance clutchs. While all the things you suggest are possible, It's best to start with the easy stuff instead of jumping to "Synchros are shot, rebuild the trans." Thats the worst case scenario.

It sounds like your clutch isnt adjusted properly, and if this is the case, then it wouldnt be fully engaging and that is why you're grinding 2nd. Try out the advice above about adjusting your clutch first.

Also, an easy way to check if your pivot ball and fork are adjusted properly:
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info
Scroll to the very last section that starts with:
"The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. "
If your pushrod isnt long enough or the fork and ball are worn, it will probably show up here.

Once you think the clutch is fully adjusted, if it's still acting funny and grinding, then pull the trans and inspect the fork, pivot ball, etc. If they look ok, then it's time to worry about the transmission synchros.

 

[TheRealMRDyno]

Ugh, same issues with new ACT 2600.

1) Measure the slave piston motion with some $10 digital calipers while someone presses on the clutch pedal - the max you can get appears to be about 0.520", the ACT 2600 at least is supposed to release at about 0.350" on the slave piston.

2) If you are not getting that motion, try adjusting your clutch pedal. The little u-shaped link between the arm on the pedal shaft and the master piston rod, just release the locknut and turn the master shaft - you probably want to back it out some more. If the release fork hits the transmission casting hole for it, something is fishy, maybe a really worn fulcrum ball, which you could release or shim. If the slave is not pushed back at least 0.500" into itself when sitting, a longer rod might help, but it means something is wrong somewhere, fulcrum ball or fork is bent or something like that.

3) If you are getting that motion, but it still releases right on the floor, you are in the same boat as me, and I have checked every last thing I can think of - let me know if you ever get yours to engage higher off the floor!

Joe

 

[VRP]

Adjust master cylinder adjuster under the dash, and put a 1/2" inch longer slave cylinder rod in slave...(Can make out of anything 1/4" and round)

Thats what I had to do to both of mine...

 

[dral24]

Ok thanks everyone! When this snow melts a little im gonna try to get my car into somewhere warm to check all the possabilities! i'll keep this thread informed on the progress, and Joe i'll let you know whats going on too.