Resolved 1G Alternator Replacement Suggestions + Diagnosis Advice

[jmkoons]

I've had to replace my stock alternator for a 1G DSM and ran into some problems with the aftermarket unit. The original apparantly bit the dust due to a missing pivot nut and some power steering fluid leakage. Battery voltage check on the car when off and running confirmed no change, and the sparks and smoke coming from the housing was convincing enough.

So I ordered a 90 A replacement made by USA Industries through an aftermarket supplier and spent several frustrating hours finally squeezing it in. During the install, one thing I couldn't understand was how in the hell is anyone supposed to tighten that pivot bolt? No socket or wrench has any hope of getting a hold down in that area, especially with the metal flange of the alternator housing blocking access. My solution was to double up the nuts, lock them together, then use an adjustable for a loose grip. This worked well enough to secure the shakes quite nicely. When done, I read about 14.5 V on the battery with the car running, so this was intially a success.

After a few minutes driving around, the car was running oddly with a rough idle. I shut it down, and tried to start it up, but no go. The battery was down to 11.5 V, and it needed a jump. With the car running, I now read about 8.5 V. Car off, I read about 10.5 V. All fuses were OK, and the 80 A fusable link was intact. (Although I snapped the friggin thing forcing it out before realizing you need to unbolt the mother from the terminal - another fix to deal with.)

To sum up, with this install, the alternator intially seemed to do its job. Shortly afterwards, it seemed to be pulling power rather than supplying it. The terminal post on the USA Industries was in a different location than stock, but it didn't seem to be relocatable, so I wired it up as-is. The plug section above the post was a direct fit with the car's harness, so that was no issue.

Now I need to pull and replace again. Any suggestions about where to look for a reliable 90 A unit? I don't want to play guessing games with other aftermarket models, and I don't plan to do all the grinding work to force a Saturn model in there. Just want a drop-in replacement that will work. I suppose I'll have to get an RMA for this unit and send it back with best hopes for determining a problem to get credit. My only fear is that the terminal post was incorrect to start with, that somehow I'll be out of luck for replacement credit due to some perceived installation error. Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions. This is most frustrating.

 

[AWD_Hybrid]

4g63 n/a & turbo autos are 90a. Manuals are 75a
Cheers !

 

[jmkoons]

In reviewing my options and input from other sources, I decided to get a brand new 90 A Bosch from Mach V Motorsports. Based upon advice from Road Race Engineering and a lot of history from the experience of others, any replacement or rebuild is always a crap shoot for reliability. I didn't want to spend the big money for the brand new OEM option, but apparently this is the only way to be sure to get long life out of the charging system.

 

[snakeyes711]

4g63 n/a & turbo autos are 90a. Manuals are 75a
Cheers !

You DO learn something new every day. As far as that pivot bolt, I used two long 6" extensions on a 13mm? I think 13mm short socket on the end of a swivel universal joint worked perfect get that nut tightened. I spent 1-2 dollars on that universal joint socket adapter, an dits saved me a lot of trouble.

 

[jmkoons]

Alternator from Mach V came in as a refurb from Mitsu Electric, 90A capacity. Replacement went back for a full refund, and I think I'll keep my core for a rebuild at an ignition shop locally that I can trust. Replacement from USA Industries was shunting to ground somehow, taking the battery down with it. Refurb works great, and everything is bolted in tight. I've got a lock washer on the pivot bolt under the nut to offset it so it can be reached with a wrench. Why on earth they put a flange on the alternator housing to block that nut mystifies me. Anything to make a simple job that much harder and cause more bloody knuckles, I guess.

While I had the battery out, at least it was easy to replace the ISC module and clean the EGR valve. Also replaced thermo valve on theromstat housing, adjusted throttle cable and cruise control cable positioning, and replaced the steering pump and fixed the leaky return line from dripping on the alternator. Car almost runs like it should now. Emissions check coming up next, so we'll see how clean she blows.