97Gb
Probationary Member
- 15
- 7
- Sep 5, 2022
-
Boise,
Idaho
Hi All,
I promise I have searched and searched. I think my combination of things is a bit too niche to find exactly what I need. So, I apologize in advance to all the "try the search button" people...
I re-acquired my old highschool car. I sold it to a guy that I made promise me that if he were to ever sell it, I would get first right of refusal. Well, fast forward almost 10 years and here we are. BUT he blew up the engine racing it within a matter of months of me selling it to him and never got it going again. So! The plus side to all of this, I sold him a car 10 years ago that only has a few thousand more miles on it that when I sold it! When I sold the car, it had a 2.4l in it. When the engine was blown up and removed, it was replaced with a 2.0l. It was never started.
Now here is the SUPER sucky side. I bought it not running. I bought it with 5 other totes (Costco style black tots) of stuff and parts.
I started out going ham on it. Bought an FP Black. Bought a new engine harness (see pictures below for connections). New IC1300 injectors. etc. etc. Here is a list of the parts that I know are on it.
- 6 bolt 2.0l swap
- JE pistons
- Eagle Rods
- BC Valve Train
- JMF Fuel Rail
- JMF Intake Manifold
- FP Race Turbo Exhaust Manifold
- FP Black Journal Bearing Turbo
- MR O2 Housing
- S90 Throttle Body
- VRSF IC
- Quarter Master twin disc clutch and flywheel
- Innovate Wideband
- Innovate Boost Gauge
- Z10 Catch Can
- Custom Aluminum Overflow
- MAC Boost Controller
- Turbo Guard
- Tial 38mm WG
- Omni 4 bar MAP
- ID1300 Injectors
- Buscher Coil on Plug
When I started the build. I purchased the below wiring harness with stock coil and plugs in mind. The shop that had it suggested coil on plug to see if that would help with starting issues and I agreed and upgraded it.
So, my first question. Do I need to do anything to my harness to make Coil on Plug work if I have the below stock connector for stock coil and plug?
My second question is do I NEED an ARC-2 to make the COPs work? (https://www.maperformance.com/produ...27837969&g_special_campaign=true&gad_source=1). I read through searching (woot I found something) that I may need to do something with the blue and white wires on the COPs? The COPs have GREAT spark.
The SECOND mechanic (long story) put on some stock coils and plugs that he had in his shop and the car actually sounds like it wanted to start but never got a pop or bang out of it. So, I'm just confused why the COPs aren't working if they have spark.
I have crazy leak down and I have terrible compression in two cylinders and worse compression in the other two. The compression increases when oil is added to the tops of the pistons. I have been told that many times once the engine is started that it can actually unstick the rings and gain compression back. Especially on an engine that was never started after being put together. I was told that compression can be super low but the car should still want to start or even start but sound terrible.
Another question I have. The shop brought in a tuner to see how the DSMlink was set up. The tuner said that DSMLink looks fine and the car should start. BUT he said he does not want to tune the car on the stock CAS, he wants me to upgrade to an Evo style separated crank and cam signal for more accurate timing and signal. I agree and I understand, BUT I am not looking for crazy power. I have a bunch of friends that run the stock CAS and run 30psi. I just want the car to run right now and I want to upgrade that part later. Is that dumb, or too crazy to ask?
I am going to address the low compression. Hopefully with just a ring kit and a hone. So that is not my MAIN focus (I do know it has a percentage to do with the starting issue).
I know this is long, so I appreciate you getting this far! Any thoughts. Any tips. Anything at all is greatly appreciated.
I promise I have searched and searched. I think my combination of things is a bit too niche to find exactly what I need. So, I apologize in advance to all the "try the search button" people...
I re-acquired my old highschool car. I sold it to a guy that I made promise me that if he were to ever sell it, I would get first right of refusal. Well, fast forward almost 10 years and here we are. BUT he blew up the engine racing it within a matter of months of me selling it to him and never got it going again. So! The plus side to all of this, I sold him a car 10 years ago that only has a few thousand more miles on it that when I sold it! When I sold the car, it had a 2.4l in it. When the engine was blown up and removed, it was replaced with a 2.0l. It was never started.
Now here is the SUPER sucky side. I bought it not running. I bought it with 5 other totes (Costco style black tots) of stuff and parts.
I started out going ham on it. Bought an FP Black. Bought a new engine harness (see pictures below for connections). New IC1300 injectors. etc. etc. Here is a list of the parts that I know are on it.
- 6 bolt 2.0l swap
- JE pistons
- Eagle Rods
- BC Valve Train
- JMF Fuel Rail
- JMF Intake Manifold
- FP Race Turbo Exhaust Manifold
- FP Black Journal Bearing Turbo
- MR O2 Housing
- S90 Throttle Body
- VRSF IC
- Quarter Master twin disc clutch and flywheel
- Innovate Wideband
- Innovate Boost Gauge
- Z10 Catch Can
- Custom Aluminum Overflow
- MAC Boost Controller
- Turbo Guard
- Tial 38mm WG
- Omni 4 bar MAP
- ID1300 Injectors
- Buscher Coil on Plug
When I started the build. I purchased the below wiring harness with stock coil and plugs in mind. The shop that had it suggested coil on plug to see if that would help with starting issues and I agreed and upgraded it.
So, my first question. Do I need to do anything to my harness to make Coil on Plug work if I have the below stock connector for stock coil and plug?
My second question is do I NEED an ARC-2 to make the COPs work? (https://www.maperformance.com/produ...27837969&g_special_campaign=true&gad_source=1). I read through searching (woot I found something) that I may need to do something with the blue and white wires on the COPs? The COPs have GREAT spark.
The SECOND mechanic (long story) put on some stock coils and plugs that he had in his shop and the car actually sounds like it wanted to start but never got a pop or bang out of it. So, I'm just confused why the COPs aren't working if they have spark.
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I have crazy leak down and I have terrible compression in two cylinders and worse compression in the other two. The compression increases when oil is added to the tops of the pistons. I have been told that many times once the engine is started that it can actually unstick the rings and gain compression back. Especially on an engine that was never started after being put together. I was told that compression can be super low but the car should still want to start or even start but sound terrible.
Another question I have. The shop brought in a tuner to see how the DSMlink was set up. The tuner said that DSMLink looks fine and the car should start. BUT he said he does not want to tune the car on the stock CAS, he wants me to upgrade to an Evo style separated crank and cam signal for more accurate timing and signal. I agree and I understand, BUT I am not looking for crazy power. I have a bunch of friends that run the stock CAS and run 30psi. I just want the car to run right now and I want to upgrade that part later. Is that dumb, or too crazy to ask?
I am going to address the low compression. Hopefully with just a ring kit and a hone. So that is not my MAIN focus (I do know it has a percentage to do with the starting issue).
I know this is long, so I appreciate you getting this far! Any thoughts. Any tips. Anything at all is greatly appreciated.
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