1997 Eclipse GSX, 4NXIETY

[AngelOfPassion]

Well done sir! If everything is functional I would say you did a great job for a first timer. It is great having a new project and learning new skills, it may be frustrating at times but when you finish and are successful it is a great feeling.

Thanks for the update! Keep it up.

Dude thanks. I just took my sweet time and tried not to get mad. I was really shocked they actually worked on the first try for each one. Now everytime I get in the car and see them it makes me smile.

same gauge setup i used, autometer cobalt boost gauge and the innovate mtx-l, loved how accurate they were.

I think they are great! I love how easy it is to use the mtx-l with link.

 

[Nicklepage1010]

I love where this is going.
Have you done the timing belt/Water pump yet?

 

[AngelOfPassion]

I love where this is going.
Have you done the timing belt/Water pump yet?

I haven't done it myself yet, no. Timing belt was replaced right when I bought the car but it's probably time to do it again...

Right now I'm dealing with a broken axle but my schedule during this time of the year is terrible so I've had no time to get it fixed...
Stuck on the side of the road. [CV Joint/Carrier Bearing separated from Axle]

 

[AngelOfPassion]

I think it is about time for an update don't you think?

This one starts off with a brand new Forced Performance Evo III 16g and Forced Performance race manifold. Now that I have that nasty axle out of there and replaced I can actually put some fun stuff on.

I had to go out and buy an angle grinder for my VRspeedfactory FMIC since I need to get part of the radiator support out of the way...

Then I was able to mount the intercooler core itself and on my first try it was level and pretty centered.

Now I put in the FP manifold and the lower intercooler piping.

Time to prep the turbo for installation. I got the lines all installed and attached the j-pipe and she is ready to go in. This VRSF j-pipe is a pain in the ass by the way. You can't fit any bolts in that thing at all on one side and forget about tightening the allen fitting type that come from FP... pretty sure I will have a boost leak here but whatever for now...

She's in!

Now I have the radiator back in and all the lines attached where they need to go and have filled the car back up with oil and coolant.

Intake snorkel back on and recirculated . Had to get a little creative here until I have money to get a nice intake pipe. It is a little crooked because everything is in a little bit of a different spot but is on tight.

I really was scared that the 16g would creep like crazy since I have replaced the entire exhaust and have no cat but it sticks right at wastegate pressure! Boost gauge spikes to about 10psi and then at red line sits in between 8-9psi! Really glad the turbo was ported from FP themselves. In link I was showing the T25 pushing about 23lbs/min at 14psi and the Evo III 16g pushing 23lbs/min at about 8-9psi.

Final product:

Can't wait to upgrade my fuel so I can push this baby harder!

 

[danielsl1999gsx]

What jpipe are you using?

 

[Mishimoto]

Nice update! Looks like a solid setup.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

What jpipe are you using?

The one that just comes with the VRSF kit. It sucks but it's like the only one that puts it in the right spot for this intercooler.

Nice update! Looks like a solid setup.

Thanks bro! It's getting closer and closer to adding some of your guys' bling in there haha.

 

[danielsl1999gsx]

The one that just comes with the VRSF kit. It sucks but it's like the only one that puts it in the right spot for this intercooler.



How bad does it suck ? Suck enough for you to sell it? Im looking for a jpipe that make room for the stock radiator fans. My jpipe comes in contact with a stock fan, so im running slims. I would like to switch back sometime though.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

How bad does it suck ? Suck enough for you to sell it? Im looking for a jpipe that make room for the stock radiator fans. My jpipe comes in contact with a stock fan, so im running slims. I would like to switch back sometime though.

VRSF J-pipe

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Got the bumper back on! Well, part of it I guess.

Here is some of the stuff that got left behind:

Final result:

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Money has been really tight these last few months but hopefully some updates will be coming soon! I did recently hit this milestone though:

190,000 miles, holy crap!

 

[Sergies2001]

dang thats a sick o2 Sensor Housing!

 

[Stmguy42]

car looks very clean!

 

[cait sith]

Suggestions:

Your brake setup is going to fail hard on a track.

2G Brakes suck for roadcourse work, R4S pads on the front will die a very fast death after a few sessions (I know from experience). R4E pads will last a weekend, but you'll run into pad knockback, and end up replacing rotors all the time. Save your money for some EVO Brembos or some other better front brake (eg: Stoptech/AP/something not BAER). The advantage of running EVO brakes is the fact you're going to get a lot more compounds available and the brakes won't overheat after a couple of laps.

Your cooling system is going to fail hard at the track.

You don't need a Mishimoto radiator. Stock radiator will do fine. Stock fans are way better than any other fan setup out there. The old turbo Archer 1Gs used stock radiators even! Drill a few holes in your thermostat to get the water to flow a little more. Focus on putting an external oil cooler on the car versus a shiny radiator. The bigger your oil cooler the better.

The FP manifold unblanketed/unshielded puts out a TON OF HEAT! HEAT IS YOUR ENEMY ON THESE CARS. We do not have the luxury of hood vents, huge frontal area like an EVO for cooling (Especially with a big dumb intercooler). You are not going to be able to build that hood vent setup unless you buy that specific radiator and TBQH it's not needed on these cars.

Focus on reliability and suspension versus throwing anymore money on the engine.

Honestly I'd get rid of your VSRF or whatever jumbo oversized intercooler and put a large SMIC. You aren't pushing enough air to justify that size of an intercooler (The EVO 3 is small enough) and a Supra Sidemount will allow for much better cooling. I didn't see you duct anything from the IC to the radiator, and the car will have issues with heat.

Most of all, you need to get the car on the track. I would've left the whole things stock and tried to figure out what's going to fail at the track (eg: When's the last time the wheel bearings were done?).

Have you actually been to a track yet?

Look at this setup here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/roa...27-archer-bros-racing-talon-resurrection.html

This car is reliable, quick, and doesn't cost a lot in running fees.

Compare that to what you're doing.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

dang thats a sick o2 Sensor Housing!

Thanks. I really think it has contributed to the waste gate effectiveness of the 16g. I get no creep at all even on low psi.

car looks very clean!

Thanks! Hopefully it stays that way.

Suggestions:

Your brake setup is going to fail hard on a track.

2G Brakes suck for roadcourse work, R4S pads on the front will die a very fast death after a few sessions (I know from experience). R4E pads will last a weekend, but you'll run into pad knockback, and end up replacing rotors all the time. Save your money for some EVO Brembos or some other better front brake (eg: Stoptech/AP/something not BAER). The advantage of running EVO brakes is the fact you're going to get a lot more compounds available and the brakes won't overheat after a couple of laps.

Your cooling system is going to fail hard at the track.

You don't need a Mishimoto radiator. Stock radiator will do fine. Stock fans are way better than any other fan setup out there. The old turbo Archer 1Gs used stock radiators even! Drill a few holes in your thermostat to get the water to flow a little more. Focus on putting an external oil cooler on the car versus a shiny radiator. The bigger your oil cooler the better.

The FP manifold unblanketed/unshielded puts out a TON OF HEAT! HEAT IS YOUR ENEMY ON THESE CARS. We do not have the luxury of hood vents, huge frontal area like an EVO for cooling (Especially with a big dumb intercooler). You are not going to be able to build that hood vent setup unless you buy that specific radiator and TBQH it's not needed on these cars.

Focus on reliability and suspension versus throwing anymore money on the engine.

Honestly I'd get rid of your VSRF or whatever jumbo oversized intercooler and put a large SMIC. You aren't pushing enough air to justify that size of an intercooler (The EVO 3 is small enough) and a Supra Sidemount will allow for much better cooling. I didn't see you duct anything from the IC to the radiator, and the car will have issues with heat.

Most of all, you need to get the car on the track. I would've left the whole things stock and tried to figure out what's going to fail at the track (eg: When's the last time the wheel bearings were done?).

Have you actually been to a track yet?

Look at this setup here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/roa...27-archer-bros-racing-talon-resurrection.html

This car is reliable, quick, and doesn't cost a lot in running fees.

Compare that to what you're doing.

Thanks for the info about the brakes. I don't have any experience with the Porterfield brakes so it's good to get some info from someone who has used them. As stated before, most things toward the end of the build have not had much thought put into them and change often as I learn more.

I do have a decent amount of track time but only in open wheel cars. I've never raced a DSM until I get this one finished. I still need to work out suspension and chassis bracing and sway bar type stuff because I don't know what this car tends to do in corners. I'm actually leaning toward not installing a stiffer rear sway from what I have seen these cars do but I need to feel for myself when I get the car out to the track.

As far as the fmic. I don't really like the idea of having a 16g running 20-25lbs through a side mount. The last thing I want is a heat soaked intercooler after 5 minutes. The car has had a lot better response even at low boost compared to the stock side mount and I have had no cooling issues so far, even in az heat.

Beau has actually had really great success with his ducting setup which has made me want to replicate it. With the radiator sealed off and the air filter sealed off (which I am planning on doing also) the ambient temps won't be as much of an issue. Actually I am really just worried about frying alternators...

I do understand that the stock rad setup is a great setup but I believe I can achieve better results with a ducted radiator setup such as beaus and not have to worry about ambient temps as much.

I do appreciate the input though and you have to remember I am updating and learning as I go. Unfortunately, right now I am going really slow due to finances . I am planning on getting some wider tires on the car pretty soon though with some light weight wheels. I am excited about that. Another thing to note is the car is only a part time track car. So it's kinda a street/road race hybrid if you will. I don't have the time or the money to build a full time track car. Maybe my next DSM can be purely a race car.

 

[cait sith]

I disagree with a side mount heatsoaking. The Supra sidemount IC is very thick and is made for a fatty 300+ horsepower car.

Also cheap Ebay FMICs are notoriously crap. I know. I have one now, and want to melt it down into something more useful. The original Evo 3 Intercoolers are much smaller and have never had a problem with heat soak. Why so focused on horsepower anyways? If you've had the experience with open wheels on the track, you'd see how pesky a 2200 pound Nissan SE-R with r compounds can be, with all 140 horses pounding the pavement.

FWIW, my good friend runs almost 383 all wheel wheel horsepower through this:

with a restrictor (Unrestricted makes around ~500), and has zero issues with heatsoak on a road course/hillclimb car.

RE Radiator: Once again, you're not going to be able to recreate that setup with any radiator other than the Scirracco drag radiator he used, meaning no Mishimoto stuff. There's not enough clearance. It's also way overkill if you just shield everything right. I lost a wiring harness + ECU at an event because my bay got too hot.

I personally never had a problem with water temps once I had an air to oil cooler on the car (even with no hoodvents). Regardless, you still will need to blanket/shield the manifold, sealed off or not. A manifold blanket costs around 150 and is well worth it. A turbo blanket also is cheap heat management as well as making spool better.

Just for clearance, I'm not trying to be a jerk and disagreeable , I'm just giving you full disclosure on what I've had experience with personally after campaigning a 2G AWD for a few years in track days, and redoing it all over again.

PS: The faster you take the car off the road, the less you're going to hate it.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Believe me, I appreciate anything someone can add that is useful. No matter how much it strays away from what I have already put down.

I do plan on ducting the IC to the radiator but since I hadn't decided quite what rad to use I haven't done it yet.

I do need to figure out what type, and where, for an oil cooler setup. I know that is something that I will need to fight temps.

If you had good luck with the stock rad and an oil cooler I may end up just trying that out and seeing how it goes. Obviously I don't want to spend too much where I don't want to. My current rad is REALLY beat up though . I would probably have to replace it with a new OEM one. That was one of the reasons I liked the Mishimoto one. I just have seen people say they get better temps with a Mishimoto and people that get better temps with a stock rad. and I just chose Mishimoto's.

As much as I try to plan this out, I really have no idea what I want to do and have been taking it just one step at a time. I've just been trying to get the basic bolt on stuff done before jumping into everything else...

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Hey guys,

I finally have some updates! It's been really hard to work on the car lately due to me not having much extra cash and I had to get 4 new tires for her as well just recently. However, I have been able to purchase a few new things and it is about time...

I ordered an intake pipe, air filter, manual boost controller, a whinebro 190lph and Fuel Injector Clinic low impedance 850cc injectors!

I have only had time to install the MBC and intake so far but I hope to tackle the fuel pump and injectors really soon. I've read the install guides and it seems really easy even though I've never worked on that part of a car before... We shall see I guess...

Here is a pic of the new intake and filter installed. Looks A LOT better than the stock airbox and snorkel that I had temporarily rigged in there to my 16g before:

I mounted the MBC where my old radiator fan used to bolt up. This is temporary until I find where I really want to put it and I'll have to move it when I get a better fan/radiator setup. Right now I only have one stock fan on the car.

I still haven't put too much thought on my brake and cooling setups yet. This will probably never be a competition road race car but I still want it to handle a day on the road course for leisure purposes. I do have plans to install an oil cooler with an Evo oil filter housing as well as redo my entire brake setup. As far as the radiator goes my stock one is just really old. When it goes out/can't cool efficiently I am thinking I will try the Mishimoto setup with their fan shroud/slim fans and we will just have to see if ducting is enough to keep the car cool on the track. The best thing is just going to be trial and error for this I think until something works. I will just learn by doing when the time comes and pop into the forums to ask more questions when something just isn't cutting it...

And, of course, the post is never complete without a new engine bay shot:

 

[Atuca]

With so much turning shiny in your car, I think it's nearing time for a valve cover make over IMO. My first time doing one I sanded it all down and painted it myself with engine paint. As I sold that car to a friend I know it lasted a long time before it started to flake and dull. We are talking like 4-5 years.

Might be something cheap you can do since you are tight on cash but a fun weekend project. 20 dollar VC gasket and 20 dollars in primer and paint, compared to the over 100 for a powder coat and even then you still have to worry about stuff getting into your baffles.

Something to think about! Keep up the good work!

 

[AngelOfPassion]

With so much turning shiny in your car, I think it's nearing time for a valve cover make over IMO. My first time doing one I sanded it all down and painted it myself with engine paint. As I sold that car to a friend I know it lasted a long time before it started to flake and dull. We are talking like 4-5 years.

Might be something cheap you can do since you are tight on cash but a fun weekend project. 20 dollar VC gasket and 20 dollars in primer and paint, compared to the over 100 for a powder coat and even then you still have to worry about stuff getting into your baffles.

Something to think about! Keep up the good work!

Believe me I know! Every time I look at my engine bay I think to myself that I need to get a better looking VC.

What I really want to do is get it powder coated the stock red to match the car... Obviously my money has been going to other places first haha.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

I was able to get the FIC 850's and the 190lph fuel pump installed. These weren't too bad at all to install, probably one of the easier things I have done to the car. The line going to the fuel pump that you have to remove with a 14mm and 19mm was probably the most frustrating but only because I thought the 14mm part was a nut that would unscrew like the one under the car in front of the gas tank. Apparently the top one you need to focus your strength on the 19mm portion. After I realized that it was easy to pop off. I'm glad I didn't break the line before I noticed that though...

Here is a shot of those awesome looking new injectors:

And here is the fuel pump installed and ready to go:

After I got everything installed I drove around a bit and came back to notice I had a HUGE fuel leak. Dropped an eighth of a tank just driving around the block haha. Had to take the fuel pump assembly back out and get that huge o ring on better. Putting the o ring in the opening and then dropping the assembly in solved the issue I was having getting a good seal. Idk what I was thinking because I should have done that the first time .

Cory is going to help me get everything tuned on Wednesday but I was able to get a good idle and cruise following some great videos from ECMtuning's site. (also thanks to Cory haha)

 

[Kirkamus]

Nice so far. I had same problem with my fuel pump when I switched to a 255lph.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Good to know I wasn't the only one! Haha.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

So my stock oil cooler died so I thought it was a great chance to install an air-air oil cooler in it's place. I decided to go with an Evo IX oil filter housing after seeing what Turbosax was able to do with his. I was planning for an identical install but we made some changes on the fly that we thought would work a little better on my car.

Firstly, here is everything out of the box. Brand new Evo IX oil filter housing, Mishimoto 19-row oil cooler and some -10 AN lines in the background. I had to haul these over to my friends shop in my backpack riding my Ninja since we were using his lift to make things easier.

Now it is time to get the oil filter housing itself in and get the lines going to it. Not terribly difficult except for the bolt under the timing cover. We opted the easy route on that one and just drilled a hole in the timing cover for the size of the bolt. It looks to be covered up pretty good anyways after we got all the belts back on there.

Here is a better look at the OFH and a look at the coolant line that is yet to be looped .

So here is where we get to the difference in install ideas. The lines that came with the Mishimoto kit were pretty long so we explored all the mounting options we had. I was originally going to place it where Turbosax did on the drivers side next to the FMIC piping. We fabbed up the oil cooler there and I apparently made some measuring mistakes OR Turbosax's pictures in his thread are an optical illusion. I thought the oil cooler I bought was the same length as his but when we fabbed it up in his install location it hung a couple inches lower than my exhaust when everything was said and done. Not only that but when we mocked the bumper cover back on the oil cooler was only partially open to the vent in the bumper and most of it was covered.

So, we got the idea of mounting it near where the original SMIC was. Not only did it put the cooler in a better airflow position, but it also left it high enough that even the lines hanging down is higher than the downpipe. I liked it on this side a lot better so we stuck with it.

Here is the bracket AJ welded to get the oil cooler to stay in place in our odd location.

AJ and I really didn't like how much the cooler vibrated just being held on by the top two brackets. We were already tired of cutting and welding that thick steel so we went a little lazy on this bracket to save time. It gets the job done... when in doubt: hammer two ends of a pipe flat! Now the cooler isn't going anywhere any time soon...

Now since that is in place we can run the lines over. We put some rubber over the center portion and just laid them on top of the metal support beam in the center of the car.

Time to get the bumper back on. As you can see, the cooler is in a great position with a lot of airflow. The front tire well also has openings in it to let the air pass out through the wheel well.

This pic didn't come out too great but the car is back on the ground. Unfortunately, our ghetto pipe bracket is a lot more obvious than in this picture when you look at the car... but hey, makes it unique .

It was a blast getting this stuff in. I have to admit that AJ did almost all the hard work but I was definitely learning a lot. I really wish I had the tools that they have in their shop in my garage. Maybe someday...

 

[Sebba]

Nice. I would stay away from Porterfield. The R4S pads are some of the worst they make, the regular R4's are better.

EBC Pads are almost entirely useless. The Greenstuff clumps up and falls apart, the Redstuff does the same after slightly more abuse, and the Yellowstuff performs decently, but it's not a race pad by any means. It also doesn't bite when cold. They do have a carbon pad they recently released, but I haven't tried it.

You're better off with Hawk HPS and regular old blank rotors.