1993 plymouth lasser head gasket change

[nehcikcabbur]

hi, newbee posting


can anyone please point me to a "how to ~ change the head gasket" on a 1993 plymouth laser 1.8l NA

i'm trying to help out a friend


thank you

kram

 

[matt1g]

If you pick up a haynes manual from your local autozone it has instructions

 

[nehcikcabbur]

it'd be nice, not an option.
i'm broke and out of work, my friend can afford the parts but little else
he's also out of work, he needs a car to find work
i know speculate to accumulate but there's no $

 

[gst96spyderman]

I know you,said that you are short on funds, but are you going to replace the timing belt, h2o pump, thermostat, replace head studs, oil and filter. These aresmart choices because all these parts are much more accessable once the head comes off. How sure are you its thehg?

 

[nehcikcabbur]

yes we will change all the necessities
this is why budget is key
he does not have money for more

 

[dsmotors95]

THIS SHOULD COVER IT...
Head Rebuild

 

[nehcikcabbur]

thank you, we found this one, googling
we are dealing with a 1.8l single cam motor
so i wanted to see if i could find the right one

 

[nehcikcabbur]

does anyone at least know what size socket i need for the head studs, it looks like a 12 point socket from the tiny pictures i have found, all my sockets are 6 point, so i'll need to buy one, i only want to buy just the one i need, not a whole set

or is it s special

help please

and i need the head stud tightening sequence

please

 

[BogusSVO]

Since you are changing the HG, Good chance the head is warped.

Just changing the HG will fix the problem. The head may need surfaced.

Try this....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/452489-backyard-straight-edge.html#post153147462

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...r-how-clean-block-deck-pistons-installed.html
Not mentioned, plug the oil feed and return holes with paper towels then remove after the deck is cleaned.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/420313-how-fluid-test-4g63-cylinder-head.html

 

[nehcikcabbur]

i know all that stuff, it's obvious to me to check

what i want right now is the head undoing and tightening sequence, and to know what size are the head bolts, i've read differing answers to what size socket or allen bit
some even suggested T-10 torx ? way way too small

most probable either 14mm 12 point, or M10 allen key

 

[Mischif]

Its a 8mm hex socket. Replace the head bolts as well. If your on a budget just replace the head gasket and held bolts. Water pump should be fine, especially if its the original. The original is a better quality that the aftermarket ones. Re-use the timing belt as well as long as it doesn't feel stiff and none of the teeth look like they are about to break off the belt. The timing belt tensioner is also okay to reuse.

How to do it.

First loosen the bolts holding the water pump/power steering pulley on(10mm). Then loosen the 4 bolts holding the a/c pulley onto the crank pulley(10mm). Loosen your a/c tensioner(first loosen the bolt holding the tensioner pulley to the bracket 14mm, then loosen up the top tensioner bolt 13mm) and remove a/c belt. Then remove the a/c pulley from crank. Remove the a/c tensioner from the engine its held on by 2 (12mm) bolts. Then you will loosen the the 4 bolts holding the crank pulley on(10mm). Then loosen the 3 bolts holding the powering steering pump in place Theres 2 behind the pulley (14mm) and one on the back side of the unit (14mm) remove the belt. Then remove the crank pulley, and the water pump pulleys. Remove your upper and lower timing covers (10mm) The lower cover will have a hidden bolt in the center above the protrusion that has the tdc zero and ten timing parts on it. Once you get those off, put the car in neutral and spin the crank (19mm) clockwise until the the timing marks for the oil pump, crank sprocket, and cam gear are lined up. This will avoid having to ensure the oil pump is in correct phase when you put the belt back on. Loosen the two bolts holding the timing belt tensioner on. Remove belt. Then pull/push the timing belt tensioner to the water pump and tighten the top bolt on the tensioner. Disconnect the intake tube from throttle body, remove the two coolant hoses that go to the lower part of the throttle body, on the back side of the throttle body by between it and the firewall is a vacuum line, unplug it. Remove the 2 plugs from the idle motor, unplug your o2 sensor, unplug coolant temp sensor and gauge sender, unlplugg the injectors, remove the 3 bolts holding the black pastic wiring insulator from the intake manifold (10mm), unplug the 3 plugs that go into the distributor. Move all that wiring out of the way from the head and intake manifold. remove the 2 bolts holding the accelerator cable to the intake mani and then disconnect the cable from throttle body. Get under the car and remove that bracket that bolts to the back of the block and the intake mani, 2 bolts to the intake and 1 bolt to the block( you can throw this piece away if you like it is unnecessary) Drain your radiator, disconnect the top hose from the radiator cap housing. Remove the valve cover. Then starting from the outside Brake one head stud loose at a time. working your way in. Once your have all loose go ahead and remove them. Make sure not to lose the washers. Pull the head off. Clean the block deck and head mating surface really good. 120 or 180 grit sand paper will do the trick. Get it as clean as possible. Lay the new gasket on the block and then put the head back on. Now starting from the inside and working your way out torque the the new head bolts down to 20 ft lbs. Then go back and torque them all back down to 40 from inside out. And then once more down to 56. Put the timing belt back on, loosen that top nut and the tensioner will apply pressure to the belt. Turn the crank clockwise so that the cam gear moves at least 2 teeth from its position. Hold the crank in this spot and tighten the top timing belt tensioner nut and then the bottom. Then go ahead and reassemble everything.

If you dont have anyone helping you then it will be easier to set the head back on if you remove the intake manifold and distributor to make it as light and easy as possible to lift and place back on. If you remove the distributor make sure you have the crank and cam gear lined up with their timing marks. Remove the cap from the distributor and install the distributor back into the head so that the rotor is pointing straight down.

Hope that helps.

Ps. Make sure you clean out the head bolt holes in the block before you put it back together. Take one of the old bolts and screw it all the way in. As you do that you'll see oil start to come out. Do this to each hole until no more oil comes out. This will ensure your new head gasket gets a good seal.

 

[nehcikcabbur]

BIG thank you
Mischif

this helps a lot