1G 1993 Laser Abomination

[Badge023]

So I thought to myself back in November, this should be an easy restoration. Hell, I rotisseried a ‘72 Cutlass Convertible and fuel injected an Olds engine in ‘07 ish when there were absolutely zero parts available aftermarket. How wrong was I?

Anyway, I’ve found out that the engine in my ‘93 Laser is some bastardized installation that someone did… very well, I will add. I realized this when trying to change the motor mounts. There is no front motor (roll) mount. There are no provisions in the block to bolt one. So what I think I have is a 7 bolt, 2g block paired with a 1g transmission. My first question is simply, am I correct?

I bought a 91 GST as a parts car that is very complete and has the correct block drilled for the front mount. So is, (my second question ) or can this engine be either a 6 bolt or 7 bolt? I know the obvious answer is to pull the trans… but there’s 12 inches of snow on the ground, so “eff” that until the end of April.

Looking thoughts and muses as I chase another shot of rock and rye with a shot of Wild Turkey. Thanks in advance!

 

[Turbski91]

All 6 bolts have the front motor mount holes in the block. Unless someone welded them up and made it look nice. You can look at the timing cover to tell if it’s a six bolt or 7 bolt. A 6 bolt picture is included. On a 7 bolt there will be another m6 bolt where i circled in red.

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[Badge023]

Thank you! I guess I’ll have to see if the parts car 6 bolt runs. That’s another abomination. It’s a ‘91 that looks like someone converted to maf. The only reason I bought it was because the previous owner of the ‘93 thought it would be cool to heat the springs to lower the car. So I needed a set of stock springs.

 

[pauleyman]

All 6 bolts have the front motor mount holes in the block. Unless someone welded them up and made it look nice. You can look at the timing cover to tell if it’s a six bolt or 7 bolt. A 6 bolt picture is included. On a 7 bolt there will be another m6 bolt where i circled in red.

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It's even easier than that to tell.
6 bolt the oil pan flange is flat. The pan overlaps the oilpump so a 6 bolt oil pump is flat across the bottom.
a 7 bolt oil pan is curved at the front and consequently so is the oil pump flange.
Below is a 7 bolt first (upside down) you can see the curve right below where the crank sprocket.

A fast glance at the oil pan tells you which one.

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[Turbski91]

It's even easier than that to tell.
6 bolt the oil pan flange is flat. The pan overlaps the oilpump so a 6 bolt oil pump is flat across the bottom.
a 7 bolt oil pan is curved at the front and consequently so is the oil pump flange.
Below is a 7 bolt first (upside down) you can see the curve right below where the crank sprocket.

A fast glance at the oil pan tells you which one.

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Good to know. Never owned a 7 bolt. Just knew the timing cover bolt from ordering a 7 bolt cover by accident. Lol

 

[Badge023]

@Turbski91, literally every learning experience I’ve had. I have an entire shed full of wrong parts that I’ve bought and because I’m so use to having it happen, I don’t bother to send back… you never know when that wrong part may come in useful. Might as well just slam my fingers in the car door over and over again…. All - Thanks for the info and quick responses! It’s much appreciated.

 

[Badge023]

Definitely identified it as a 7 bolt today. It has the hump at the oil pump. Call me old school, but why would anyone do this knowing you would loose the front roll mount? Anyway the exhaust is done and looking stock a possible, so that makes me happy.

My next question is what controls the auto door locks? Had the driver's seat foam fixed so the seat no longer cuts into my back. But I do remember the key opening both doors. Is there a module somewhere?

My next quest will be trying to find a good fuel pump hanger, the one that is accessible for the rear of the tank since someone made an abomination out of that with JB weld.

ANY help is appreciated!

 

[97egl]

If it is a 2g 7bolt you also won't have a rear roll stop. The only way to use a 2g 7 bolt in a 1g car is to also use a 2g transmission and custom fab the roll mounts that are on the trans.

To tell for sure if it is a 2g block you can look at the front of the block where it meets transmission there will be an ear sticking off the block. It is an extra block to trans bolt point that the 1g didn't have.

 

[Badge023]

If it is a 2g 7bolt you also won't have a rear roll stop. The only way to use a 2g 7 bolt in a 1g car is to also use a 2g transmission and custom fab the roll mounts that are on the trans.

To tell for sure if it is a 2g block you can look at the front of the block where it meets transmission there will be an ear sticking off the block. It is an extra block to trans bolt point that the 1g didn't have.

Thanks! It does have the extra ear sticking off the block, but it also has a rear roll stop on the aft side of the block.

 

[19Eclipse90]

If it is a 2g 7bolt you also won't have a rear roll stop. The only way to use a 2g 7 bolt in a 1g car is to also use a 2g transmission and custom fab the roll mounts that are on the trans.

I was under this impression for a while as well. The 2G block does indeed have a place for the rear roll stop.

I believe I attempted to clean up all my posts that may have said otherwise.

 

[97egl]

I was under this impression for a while as well. The 2G block does indeed have a place for the rear roll stop.

I believe I attempted to clean up all my posts that may have said otherwise.

I could swear my 2g blocks do not have a spot for a rear mount bracket. I'll have to check when I get home just to see it for myself. Thanks for the heads up. Definitely will not be the first time I have been wrong.

 

[19Eclipse90]

I could swear my 2g blocks do not have a spot for a rear mount bracket. I'll have to check when I get home just to see it for myself. Thanks for the heads up. Definitely will not be the first time I have been wrong.

Definitely follow up with us!

 

[97egl]

Definitely follow up with us!

Block does definitely have them. This is a 99 block so I was hoping that later castings would have gotten rid of the mount point and I would still be half correct . But I was 100% wrong. Rear roll stop bracket mounting points are still there!

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[Badge023]

These cars are like the AMC version of Japanese cars.

 

[19Eclipse90]

…My next quest will be trying to find a good furl pump hanger, the one that is accessible for the rear of the tank since someone made an abomination out of that with JB weld. ANY help is appreciated!

Refer to this thread.

That’s why I asked about the fuel pump hanger style you have / need.

 

[Badge023]

So I embarked on this journey in November. Today I was finally able to downshift into 4th at around 65mph and mash the pedal to the floor. I don't remember when I shifted into 5th, but I do remember the speedometer at 120 mph. She was shaking more than Michael J. Fox, tires have flat spots from sitting, but it sure felt like I remembered. Finally no fuel cut, no hesitation and no sputtering. I've managed to take a $2500 car, put a 4 thousand into it and have a 3200 hundred dollar car! Mission accomplished! Now I can rest easy knowing that paint and body work it needs will be well worth it... unless this car comes back on the market... https://carsandbids.com/auctions/rJ5VnAk2/1992-plymouth-laser-rs-turbo, then all bets are off. Great learning experience though. More than half the fun is the challenge. I'd like to thank everyone who has replied to a post or had parts I needed. This is an awesome community. The people I interacted with online and in person are the most friendly and knowledgeable people I've met. I look forward to keeping this sentimental project going, knowing that the knowledge and support is out there. Thanks!

 

[Badge023]

So as of tonight:
New Front Struts
New Rear Shocks
New Front Calipers
Reman Rear Calipers (RR was rebuilt)
New Custom (stockish) Exhaust, Cat Delete
R&R Fuel Tank - Sent out and cleaned, small pin holes fixed Upper Left Rear of Tank, Re-Coated inside and out (from '90 Talon parts car)
New Fuel Pump (Hanger from '90 Talon parts car)
Repair Driver's seat bolster on left side
New Motor Mounts
New Sway Bar End Links
Throttle Body Rebuild (Thanks AO Customs, great job, great turn around)
Replaced Speakers
Cleaned and Re-Dyed all interior panels and replaced clips (hatch, door, pillar, seat belt trim)
Fixed cut wire from TPS at ECM and broken in harness (no signal to ECM)
Replaced TPS and connector
Replaced Ignition Coil (#1-4 coil was dead on #1)
Replaced Plug Wires
Replaced 4 injectors
Replaced CTS connector and the other sensor connector near it.
Replaced Idle Stop Connector
Replaced CAS connector
Replaced Injector Connectors (2g) ... Yellow/Blue stripe wire doesn't exist, cut section from parts car.
Shi* ton of soldering!
Blown Fuse on power Door Locks
Replaced Wastegate Solenoid
New Hatch Struts
New Air Filter
New Battery (actually found plastic tub it sits in)
Drove from NJ to a little South of Pittsburg for a spoiler like I had on my car from the dealer in '92
Replaced Radio with Good OE

Next Up:
Cut out and repair rat nest of wires stuffed under driver's dash from some sort of car alarm and kill switch.
O2 sensor manifold - sounds like it's cracked.
Find where water is leaking into hatch.
Tires
Body & Paint