1992 VR4 #71/1000

[iceguru1114]

Engine Block Repair

Fixing a broken boss on the replacement block. Special preparation is required for welding cast iron. I believe Lincoln Electric's website has some good info about what's needed:

 

[iceguru1114]

I really needed to stop and clean up the garage before beginning the engine assembly:

 

[iceguru1114]

Shortblock Assembly

Everything was thoroughly cleaned and pickled to account for time slippage (which happened):



I cleaned the block once last time and then started putting things back together:

 

[iceguru1114]

ARP main studs:

 

[iceguru1114]

Clevite standard sized mains:

 

[iceguru1114]

I took lots of measurements and calculated lots of clearances but I only took two pictures of this process because it's tedious and boring. BTW, this is the most important part of assembling an engine. Be patient and do it right:

 

[iceguru1114]

Note to those that have never done this.. The main bearings with more surface area go on the main caps to give more lubrication area meant to resist the firing load (the grooved main bearings go on the block side):

 

[iceguru1114]

Installation of ARP rod bolts. Make very very sure that the bolt head is COMPLETELY bottomed out on the rod. If not, the bolt will lose preload the first time you start the engine... and it will ruin your engine:





Clevite standard rod bearings:

 

[iceguru1114]

After lots of measuring, checking, and rechecking, the short block was finally together:

 

[iceguru1114]

Began work on the top end by cleaning the valves:

 

[iceguru1114]

Gave the cam gears some enamel bling:



Threw some on the oil pan too:

 

[iceguru1114]

Longblock Assembly

Back to the good stuff. 3 angle valve job mainly to re-surface the valve seats; not really intended to be a performance mod in my case:

 

[iceguru1114]

I had the valves ground, again, to ensure a good seal (not a performance mod in my case):



Intake:



Exhaust:

 

[iceguru1114]

Installed some new stem seals:



Busted out the garage hack valve spring compressor tool. Swapped out some new valvesprings from Manley:



Cylinder head about 90% ready:



Since this is will be a daily driver, I upgraded the lash adjusters to the revised edition to get rid of the annoying ticking noise 1G lifters make. I also stuck with the stock cams for good driveability and prolonged valvespring life:

 

[iceguru1114]

Once again ARP finds its way into the engine in the form of head studs this time. Fasteners squeeze onto a Cometic MLS head gasket (very nice piece):



Voila! Long block is assembled:

 

[iceguru1114]

Swapped in a new OEM oil pump with a proper BS delete shaft:



Garage hack #2, cut up a 28 mm socket to take care of the funky oil pump cover bolt:

 

[iceguru1114]

Skipping a few steps here, but finally got the engine longblock mostly dressed:



At this point I need to:

-Install the rear main seal
-Throw on the pan and valve cover
-Prime the engine
-Install the timing belt
-Assemble the FEAD system
-Repair some manifold hardware
-Rebuild the turbo
-Pickle the engine
-Begin chassis prep work

 

[iceguru1114]

Began chassis work by working my way out from the engine. Got all the mounts prepped for painting:

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Id recommend a doorman harmonic balancer (crank pully )with life time warrenty mines awesome! One less thing to worry about if it breaks

 

[buddahboost]

Man you make it seem so easy. Wish I had measuring skills so I can actually assemble my own motor.

Keep up the good work. And patent that awesome socket

 

[iceguru1114]

Id recommend a doorman harmonic balancer (crank pully )with life time warrenty mines awesome! One less thing to worry about if it breaks

Luckily my stock balancer is in pretty good shape. Also, since I'm still using a stock crank, the resonant frequency of the crank is unchanged and the stock balancer will continue to work well to ensure I don't experience a modal failure (fingers crossed).

 

[iceguru1114]

Man you make it seem so easy. Wish I had measuring skills so I can actually assemble my own motor.

Keep up the good work. And patent that awesome socket

It's really pretty easy, bro. Just grab some calipers and go for it. Admittedly, when I use the high precision calipers, I often have to write things down to add up the indicator marks properly.

For the socket patent, I'll do a patent search at work and see if Mitsubishi forgot to patent their factory tool

 

[bonecollector]

Nice win on the castle cap tool! Next time I'm at a pawn shop that has a 28mm socket in their random socket bin i'll have to snag it so i can make that tool.

 

[JDM253DSM]

speaking of Galants...I have a question. My dad has a 2001 Galant ES. It has a v6 with 200k miles on it. I know its not really a dsm. And for some reason it decided to make a grinding sound. And he isn't really a fan of buying new cars. SO what should i do for him? and engine swap? Rebuild? help please.

 

[iceguru1114]

speaking of Galants...I have a question. My dad has a 2001 Galant ES. It has a v6 with 200k miles on it. I know its not really a dsm. And for some reason it decided to make a grinding sound. And he isn't really a fan of buying new cars. SO what should i do for him? and engine swap? Rebuild? help please.

Honestly, bro, you should try figure out what the noise is before you make a big decision like getting a different car or doing an engine swap.