1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

[Grd1043]

So I have a bit of a dilemma. I have the front subframe removed from the car right now. I also have an Energy Suspension Front Subframe Poly Bushing Kit

Should I replace the bushings with the poly ones? I do want to try and preserve the drivability of the car, I don't want it to become super harsh. So I'm debating between leaving the OEM rubber bushings in vs installing the poly bushings. Will it make a big difference on the subframe?

The bushings on the subframe are the OEM rubber ones and they look "fine" to my eye? They aren't torn or cracked. But I really don't know how old they are or how much play is supposed to be normal for them.

Here's a pic as an example they all look mostly like this

 

[pauleyman]

So I have a bit of a dilemma. I have the front subframe removed from the car right now. I also have an Energy Suspension Front Subframe Poly Bushing Kit

Should I replace the bushings with the poly ones? I do want to try and preserve the drivability of the car, I don't want it to become super harsh. So I'm debating between leaving the OEM rubber bushings in vs installing the poly bushings. Will it make a big difference on the subframe?

The bushings on the subframe are the OEM rubber ones and they look "fine" to my eye? They aren't torn or cracked. But I really don't know how old they are or how much play is supposed to be normal for them.

Here's a pic as an example they all look mostly like this

View attachment 796968

Its subjective but I did poly subframe back in the 90s. I didnt think it was harsh.

 

[Grd1043]

Okay! Poly bushings it is!

I thought it would be way harder but I popped the rubber subframe bushings right out with a big C clamp and a couple of hole saw bits

 

[pauleyman]

I had the fortunate experiemce of DSMs from relatively new (30k). Bushings made the car what it should have been from new. Great tires and suspension took the car beyond my capability on the street. Just simple quality parts made for a great street car. I never wanted a race car. I still dont.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I have polys all around to replace everything I had to replace them.

 

[Grd1043]

My subframe is now candy coated with poly bushings!

 

[92AWDHX40]

Been there looks good

 

[thebrownman1]

Did poly front and rear subframe on mine. Can definitely let you know how the ride is although I am more interested in stability than comfort.

 

[Grd1043]

Okay, subframe is sorted! And I've got all the front end stuff back together. Looking shiny under there now

So, my attention is turned back to the engine now. We got the timing done, it took a lot of trepidation and cross referencing half a dozen different service manuals and guides to figure out the right way to tension it and time it. But I think we've nailed it, so new tensioner, new water pump and an OEM timing belt and balance belt. All that is sorted out now.

Now I need to get all the plumbing on this thing figured out. We test fitted the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, turbo, downpipe etc. to just see how everything is going to fit up. It's looking pretty good so far!

So now I'm trying to figure out this bit - I need the oil filter housing's coolant lines and the turbo's coolant and oil lines hooked up. But a lot of this is gonna be awfully close to the turbo / exhaust manifold / downpipe, so I'm trying to think about temperature and make sure I don't have an issue there. I cannot afford to have a hose melt on me, if I blow up my engine or my turbo it'll be game over.

My understanding so far from all the research I've done is that the coolant lines in green need to be... SAE 20R3 rated heater hose, because that's rated to handle coolant? Meanwhile, the turbo drain line is differnt it's handling hot oil not coolant so.... you DON"T want heater hose there. I have AN fittings for the turbo and oil pan that I got from RTMRacing last year before they closed so I was thinking maybe I'd do a short run of 10AN PTFE fuel line for this

The heater hose is rated for 257F but I have no idea how much heat the turbo is going to produce, will that be enough? Evil Energy has silicone 3/8 heater hose that they claim is 20R3 rated and allegedly good up to 356F so I'm considering going with that..

 

[Grd1043]

Well I found out today that my FP3052 turbo's 60mm inlet that attaches to the exhaust manifold does *not* mean I need a 6cm gasket. Apparently 6cm gaskets are for the stock turbo, which has a 55mm diameter hole. What I actually need is Forced Performance's 7cm gasket. Which has a 60mm hole. Go figure

In other news, I've been working on the battery tray. The stock location for the battery interferes with the intercooler piping to the intake, and the previous owner had just set the battery on the subframe and strapped it down, which would maybe work okay but I didn't want to risk that and I just spent a lot of time repainting it... so I took a piece of an old bed frame and I'm trying my hand and welding and bending it into a custom bracket that can bolt to the firewall + side of the engine bay to hold the battery.

I think it came out okay!

 

[Grd1043]

This weekend we got the clutch, oil pan and tranny attached! We are tantalizingly close to being able to drop the engine in can't wait!

 

[Grd1043]

I got a hat!

 

[Grd1043]

The engine is going in this weekend!

Eaaassy does it...

EAASSY DOES IT

Stuck the landing

Now we just need to connect up... well... everything. Wish us luck!

 

[Grd1043]

Omg it's so close. First signs of life confirmed.

 

[Grd1043]

Sooo, while I try and figure out the rough running issue with the engine I thought I'd turn my attention to the other issue - my stock rad fan doesn't fit.

But, I think there is enough room in here for activities

I decided to go with 2x 11" SPAL pusher fans and they will mount in front of the rad, behind the intercooler.

What a size difference!

Making the shroud, I just attached it with zip ties to press it tight to the rad with some foam. Hopefully nothing melts..

It's getting pretty close! Just have to figure out why it won't stay running now...

 

[DreamChaser7]

Sooo, while I try and figure out the rough running issue with the engine I thought I'd turn my attention to the other issue - my stock rad fan doesn't fit.

But, I think there is enough room in here for activities
View attachment 801356

I decided to go with 2x 11" SPAL pusher fans and they will mount in front of the rad, behind the intercooler.

View attachment 801357
What a size difference!

View attachment 801358
Making the shroud, I just attached it with zip ties to press it tight to the rad with some foam. Hopefully nothing melts..
View attachment 801359

View attachment 801360

It's getting pretty close! Just have to figure out why it won't stay running now...

Beautiful car, I want your seats!

 

[pauleyman]

I'm anxious to hear your opinions when the car is driveable again. Even though we are in a DSM group I doubt there are many here than can say their only car was a DSM for decades. I daily drove a DSM from 1992 to 2018. Not the same car but DSMs only. Drove to work, school, anywhere I needed to go. I had a family car also but my personal car was always a DSM. Anybody who intends to mod isn't typically concerned about noise, vibration etc but it can get invasive. My personal cars all had urethane bushings and Koni struts. Having owned DSMS when they were new they were nice then but too cushy for a sports are. After mods I felt it was as it should have been all along and still comfortable enough to drive daily.