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1991 GST Build. Need Help.

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PrettyBoy23

10+ Year Contributor
44
0
Jul 8, 2011
El Mirage, Arizona
Hey guys I just joined the forum. I also just bought a 1991 GST, but its not stock. It has 287k miles, kinda high.

Anyways the car has a 50 trim t4 turbo, Aftermarket Turbo Manifold, Straight Pipeing, FMIC, but the BS part that I seriously forgot to check is that it has
240cc injectors. Is that even safe to run the car? I mean stock ones are 440cc and this has a t4 turbo, at 7psi. I mean should i change those asap? I really dont have money right now and have to get to work somehow, so i wanted to know if its ok to drive it like that like if i were an old man?

Since its such high mileage, the car was rebuilt 87k miles ago and i wanted to see if after getting injectors, is it possible to turn up the psi? I know that the stock block and everything can handle up to 400whp or more. But mine has a lot of miles and i only wanna do 275whp for now. Do you guys think it would be safe to push that kind of power. Later on i will rebuild everything and get it ready for high boost. At what psi can i reach 275whp? maybe 15?

Any help will be greatley appreciated. I have never owned a DSM and this is my first one so I will try to learn as fast as possible.
 
Those injectors are not safe. Do you have a upgraded fuel pump or regulator. If you have an adjustable fuel regulator i would turn your base pressure up considerably to push those injectors hard. Try to keep you boost down 10 psi max. 450cc are cheap and you can get them for 50 dollars easy and they are way safer.
 
Yea, get some stock injectors cheap. Its the safest and best way out. And as far as HP goals... it all depends on the rest of the setup, every car is defferent, you'll have to do some testing and tuning to hit the number you want.
 
Well I was gonna try to go for the Evo 550cc injectors i believe. If im not mistaking. That so I can reach my HP goals. I already have all supporting mods to boost up besides the injectors.

As for gauges, I have an A/F guage, Boost gauge, Ummm, I forgot the name, but it lets you know if the car is running lean or rich, and an oil temp gauge.
 
The air fuel ratio gauge is what tells you if your running rich or lean. Do you mean you got the one that has the actual numbers and then one that has the LED lights like green orange and red?
 
Oh LOL, sorry about that. No mine has like 3 parts, first says lean, than good, than rich. The needle moves depending how your running.

Is there any low mile engine out there? I was maybe thinking of just selling this one and swapping it for a fresh one. Or should I just stick with this one. Its about to hit 300k =o
 
For engine blocks its really not age that determines if it can handle power.

Technically if the engine was bored out and rebuilt. It should have only like 87k.

When you bore in engine, your getting fresh metal.

The reason why people don't like to run old engines for HIGH rpm and power, is because the more you bore your engine the weaker the block becomes. But if yours is only like .020 over I wouldn't worry at all.
 
Well they never did bore the block. All hey did was pretty much head stuff. Like the basic rebuild. They didnt get all up in there.

Should I get the parts i need first, than save some money and do a full rebuild. Like machine the head and block, bore the block, and stuff like that? I mean im not looking to push crazy numbers, like i said. Maybe 275whp for now than 350whp max or so.
 
Yeap thats what i was thinking. Do you think they will be enough for 275whp? I think they should hold in there. But than again....
 
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