19MitsuEclipse90
Probationary Member
- 16
- 11
- Jul 12, 2023
-
Windsor,
California
This is the Build Thread for 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS. Reply below.
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I’ll definitely try out the stop leak and take a look at the rubber bushings. I appreciate the feedback, thank you!I wouldn’t say it about many things, but when it comes to AC it’s worth trying a can of refrigerant with stop leak in it then charging the system the rest of the way with the regular stuff. Have a 94 Ranger that would lose its charge parked for the winter while it was in storage while Ohio is a salty wonderland, charged it last June with a can of the Walmart house brand stuff with stop leak in it and topped it off with the regular stuff, still blows ice cold today over a year later. I have an 06 crown Vic that would lose its charge in a few weeks, did the same thing 3 years ago and still blows as cold as it should. If it’s not a massive noticeable leak definitely worth trying.
As far as the vibration at idle I’d take a look at the rubber bushings in the motor mounts. I’d also suspect someone could have gotten the balance shaft orientation wrong if the timing belt and balance shaft belt have been serviced and I’ve seen balance shaft belts laying under the cover broken over the years, but I’d think you’d get vibrations elsewhere as well. Good starting point though.
Off the top of my head I remember the previous owner mentioning that they had done the timing belt, water pump, and alternator. The timing belt looks visibly new. I mean as far as what i had done to it: new spark plugs, spark plug wires, head gasket, oil change/oil filter.Welcome to the site! Car looks pretty good, nice find. When you say “full maintenance”, did they do the timing belt replacement as well?
The car is at 117,556 miles as of now. I’ll for sure take this into consideration as well. Thanks!I've used the 134a cans with stop leak in my DSM and it didn't help. It kept slowly leaking, but your mileage may vary. If it's completely empty right now, it's best to take that opportunity to find the leak(s) (should be caked with oil residue) replace the o-ring, or line, or schrader valve, or whatever is leaking. Use a loaner tool program from your local parts store to borrow a manifold/gauge set and a vacuum pump (don't forget the vacuum pump oil, yes that's a real thing). Check the seals on the manifold gauge set before you leave the store as they tend to get abused or lost. Then lookup a YouTube on recharging. It's possible it may need some PAG oil if you have to replace a larger component like the condenser, just be careful not to overfill with oil (or refrigerant).