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1990 gsx garage find and rescue

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flopp

Proven Member
50
0
Jan 24, 2014
NAVARRE, Ohio
ok so some may or may not remember me asking about if my buddies gsx was a good deal or not. He had a 1991 gsx that came with a bunch of spare parts pretty much a whole other car. i loaded up my truck a buddies truck and headed 88 miles to his barn to try and rescue the car. Well when I get there it wasn't running but i knew that but it was still torn apart more then I realized and after throwing it together it wouldn't move all the brakes are locked up and i couldn't get it out of the barn. so unfortunately i was defeated and talked to him only to decide I should buy the other gsx i had been eyeing up on craigslist.

So I called the guy up asked a few questions and rushed 65 miles to see his car and hope it was as good as he was saying. I get there and the car is tucked under covers and him and his buddies r standing around bsing in 15 degree weather. I looked over the car and it was really clean 2 owner car that had never seen snow never been smoked in and was pretty loaded up. The owner I got it off of had owned it since 1995 and had only done a few mods and had it sent to buschur racing every time. It has a walbro pump along with a 16g turbo a full exhaust system some 17in rims.

Well after looking it over I was extremely impressed so I asked him to start it. he jumped in and click nothing happens .... tries again and nothing again. hmm wtf man it says it runs needs a throwout bearing. well he graps a jump box hooks it up and the thing comes to life like it was a daily driver. alright sweet lets make a deal.

so I bought it and was going to try to drive it until the brake line blew and we found out the clutch wouldnt release to allow me to put the car in gear. #### I was mad because I just returned the trailer the day before and had no way to tow it now. He then says hey I have a car club membership I will have it towed for you sweet the deal is back on.


now onto the car I bought
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and here is after i got it on the rack in the garage
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not sure if this is y it wont go into gear I think I will be replacing the whole clutch hydraulic system
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scary that this has been undone since the trans rebuild in 2002 says it was a shep trans in it and he gave me a receipt for one.
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hopefully these all works
and here is a video unfortanatly after i got it to my garage it started having starting issues and burning oil the front of the motor and spitting oil out the exhaust
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jLhBl0b1RQ]1990 eclipse gsx garage find - YouTube[/ame]
 
LOL @ "Might have lifter tick"

Car looks pretty good, it'll be a lot of work but it looks like it will be worth it. If it's hard to start in the cold, replace your coolant temp sensor first.

Oh, and because I can't resist posting this video :D
[ame=http://youtu.be/Bt9zSfinwFA]Vertical Video Syndrome - A PSA - YouTube[/ame]
 
really shouldn't be that much work this year im just putting it back on the road and maybe taking it to the body shop its just a summer toy. thanks for the advice on the coolant temp sensor though and yes the video sucks but i was not originally going to post it but it went with my build so I did. O and the tick is hard to tell what it is it comes and goes
 
I plan to order all this stuff by friday at the latest anybody have any thoughts or recommendations or additions

Ignition : Spark Plug
NGK Part # 5534 {#2023, BPR7ES}

Exhaust Manifold Gasket
FEL-PRO Part # MS95470 Set

Timing Belt Component KitRelated Parts
GATES Part # TCK167 {#2521670} 5 Components (2 Belts, 2 Tensioners, 1 Idler) PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt Component Kit
Does not include cam. tensioner hyd. assy. B

Spark Plug WireRelated Parts
NGK Part # 9634 {#ME64} NGK Wire Set

Clutch Release BearingRelated Parts
TIMKEN Part # 614099 {#MB837549, MD719925, MD722744, MD749998} 1.25 Bore

Clutch Master CylinderRelated Parts
EXEDY Part # MC180


Clutch Slave Cylinder
EXEDY Part # SC587


Temperature Sender / SensorRelated Parts
AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 7L2 AdvanTech

I also plan to order road race engineering
hose kit
brake lines
stainless clutch line
clutch fork and ball
full set of redline fluids engine trans tcase and rear axle
and I need to find a 16g rebuild kit any suggestions on which one to get
also should I do a balance shaft delete now or just replace the belt for this year since next year i plan to pull the motor and it will be easier to delete then
 
Last edited:
thank you for the link i searched but didnt find that one. anybody have any suggestions for the other items?
 
I had to buy some replacement parts for my '90 Talon 5 speed from Jacks Transmisson in Colorado and they say to not do a bse for manual cars for the fact that the engine harmonics make the clutch disk "wiggle" at high rpms from the harmonics and it wont completely release the disk. Just something to think about. I still have my shafts in and I think I will leave them alone. Wanted to put that out there since they are transmission specialists.
 
im worried about the bs belt braking and destroying the timing belt
 
Valid concern. I would probably feel better if I had a performance balance shaft belt, but I don't know if they make them or not, but mine were replaced by the PO before I aquired the car so they aren't old but I do understand what you are worried about and that would suck, not to mention the $$$$. Very valid point.
 
I had to buy some replacement parts for my '90 Talon 5 speed from Jacks Transmisson in Colorado and they say to not do a bse for manual cars for the fact that the engine harmonics make the clutch disk "wiggle" at high rpms from the harmonics and it wont completely release the disk. Just something to think about. I still have my shafts in and I think I will leave them alone. Wanted to put that out there since they are transmission specialists.

That's bullshit. If there is enough forces from those vibrations to cause shifting problems, you would have much much bigger problems.
 
started on the car today got held up because it wouldnt start and that was bugging me ... still never got it to start I think the battery is too dead to actually fire it plus the thing needs fresh gas and a tune up so that will get done asap. but today I pulled everything out except the transmission since I was working solo without a tranny jack
 
So yesterday was a big day. I have the weekend off for once and since all my parts came in (despite maperformance messing up my order). So I started work on the car with my dad. We tore it the rest of the way down to find the clutch was toast as was the fork and throwout bearing. Good thing I live close to sheppard racing because I hadn't ordered the fork or a clutch. After that parts run we completely reassembled the car and I did a tune up changed all the fluids and everything else so now all that is left to do is the brake line bleed the clutch lines ( clutch still wont full disengage and the fork is adjusted right) then she is on the road again. sorry I didnt take many work pictures yesterday or any of all the new parts but we have all seen them LOL.

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what maperformance sent me umm this isnt my throwout bearing
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thats what mine looks like well after its destroyed LOL
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Mr. Sheppards shop
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ok so I installed a new slave cylinder new clutch fork and ball new clutch new throw out and checked that the clutch for was in the middle/ slightly toward the drivers side of the car and blead the crap out of it all. The slave cylinder is pushing the fork all the way to the edge of the transmission and the clutch fingers are going flat but the clutch will not disengage. when it is sitting back on the ground it will not go into gear at all I can not figure out wtf is going on with this thing. I searched on here but the problem is i am making out the clutch fork travel so it really cant be a maladjusted pedal or the slave cylinder needing to be longer though we did try that. heck it cant even be the assembly needs welded because as stated it is pushing the fork completely over. I really don't want to pull this trans out again but is it possible that even my brand new fork and ball needed shimmed? If so maybe i can get a line wrench on the ball through the fork boot and loosen it up and then place c shaped shims in there to space it out ???? Help I am really stumped and need to get this out of the garage i have other cars to work on LOL
 
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first drive finally after the car sat for 10 years i only had to install a new clutch throwout fork and ball slave cylinder and finally the thing that was most messed up the clutch pedal assembly from shep. now for the fun stuff to slowly roll on. I am getting fuel cut at 6k rpms or so but other then that it idles and runs perfectly. and I have just purchased a gm maf maft intake pipe walbro 255 pump rewire kit and 780cc injectors just need to install it all
 
I saw that car on craigslist a few weeks back when i was looking for mine, good find man! the one i ended up buying was only a 7 year old garage find.
 
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first drive finally after the car sat for 10 years i only had to install a new clutch throwout fork and ball slave cylinder and finally the thing that was most messed up the clutch pedal assembly from shep. now for the fun stuff to slowly roll on. I am getting fuel cut at 6k rpms or so but other then that it idles and runs perfectly. and I have just purchased a gm maf maft intake pipe walbro 255 pump rewire kit and 780cc injectors just need to install it all


Looking awesome! Keep us updated on the build! :hellyeah:
 
well have been driving it a ton the last 2 days but sadly last night i hit a huge pothole and blew a tire out. luckily the rim was not damaged so she now has 1 odd ball tire LOL. on a side not I really need to install the new pump assembly injectors and maft but I need to figure out how to tune the injectors for my setup and to get that done i got to find a wideband.... the life of never ending projects LOL
 
Just some advice but I wouldn't run with that one odd tire for very long. With your car being AWD they recommend replacing all 4 tires at the same time. Running uneven tires is pretty hard on your differential.
 
Also, have you looked into draining the tank? If it sat in a barn for 6 years, then it has 6-year old gas in it and probably some rust/sludge in the tank. That will make the pump real loud. Safest place for the odd wheel is the non-drive wheel up front (as factory setup the transmission is not LSD), but as stated above, do not run it for long.
 
no need to worry about the tire its the exact same size and the old tires only had 200 miles on them so I think it will be fine
update i fully detailed her the last 2 days :)
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well i just bought a front mount intercooler and a innovate wideband things should be all order for her now to do the slight mods and be ready for summer
 
so I just replaced the fuel pump assembly and fuel pump with a rewired 255 and a much cleaner assembly seeing as mine had a broken fuel line that was siliconed together smh it was also siliconed into place wtf ... o well I also had to replace 3 studs that he broke
 
ya i dont belive it im pretty sure the first owner for sure used it in the snow. but the rust probably started because it sat under a car cover over a garage drain so I am sure moister built up and caused it. all the underside rust is easily knocked off with a wire brush
 
that was the oem throwout from when the car was new he never had it replaced but who knows what the shop he had do the work could have done LOL. as for an update on the car i received my innovate lc2 wideband kit today now I need to figure out how to install it so I can datalog and use it to simulate the front o2 sensor all without dsm link for know. are there any good links on the install all i have found are guides to installing the lc1
 
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